C H A P. II.
The Author's Land Journey from the South to the North-Sea, over the Terra-Firma, or Isthmus of Darien.
BEing landed, May the 1st, we began our march about 3 a Clock in the Afternoon, directing our course by our Pocket Compasses N. E. and having gone about 2 miles, we came to the foot of a hill where we built small Hutts and lay all night ; having excessive Rains till 12 a Clock. The 2d day in the morning having fair weather, we ascended the hill, and found a small Indian path, which we followed till we found it run too much Easterly, and then doubting it would carry us out of our way, we climb'd some of the highest Trees on the Hill, which was not meanly furnish- ed with as large and tall Trees as ever I saw : At length we discovered some Houses in a Valley on the North side of the Hill, but it being steep could not [p12] [An.1681] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] not descend on that side, but followed the small path which led us down the Hill on the East side, where we presently found several other Indian Houses. The first that we came to at the foot of the Hill, had none but women at home, who could not speak Spanish, but gave each of us a good Cala- bash or Shell full of Corn-drink. The other Houses had some men at home, but none that spoke Spa- nish ; yet we made a shift to buy such food as their Houses or Plantations afforded, which we drest, and eat all together ; having all sorts of our Provi- sion in common, because none should live better than others, or pay dearer for any thing than it was worth. This day we had marched 6 mile. [dress: prepare and cook food] In the evening the Husbands of those women came home, and told us in broken Spanish, that they had been on board of the Guard Ship, which we fled from two days before, that we were now not above three mile from the mouth of the River of Congo, and that they could go from thence aboard the Guard Ship in half a Tydes time. [half a tide: 3 hrs] This evening we supped plentifully on Fowls and Pecary, a sort of Wild Hogs which we bought of the Indians ; Yams, Patatoes, and Plantains served us for Bread, whereof we had enough. After Sup- per we agreed with one of these Indians to guide us a days march into the Country, towards the North side ; he was to have for his pains a Hatchet, and his bargain was to bring us to a certain Indians ha- bitation, who could speak Spanish ; from whom we were in hopes to be better satisfied of our Journey. The 3d day having fair weather, we began to stir betimes, and set out betwixt 6 and 7 a Clock, marching through several old ruined Plantations. This morning one of our men being tired gave us the slip. By 12 a Clock we had gone 8 mile, and arrived at the Indians house, who lived on the bank of the River Congo, and spake very good Spanish ; to whom [betimes: early, promptly] [p13] [An. 1681] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] whom we declared the reason of this visit. At first he seemed to be very dubious of enter- taining any discourse with us, and gave very im- pertinent answers to the questions that we demand- ed of him ; he told us he knew no way to the North side of the Country, but could carry us to Cheapo or to Santa Maria, which we knew to be Spanish Garrisons ; the one lying to the Eastward of us, the other to the Westward : Either of them at least 20 miles out of our way. We could get no other answer from him, and all his discourse was in such an angry tone, as plainly declared he was not our friend. However, we were forced to make a virtue of necessity, and humour him, for it was neither time nor place to be angry with the Indians ; all our lives lying in their hand. We were now at a great loss, not knowing what course to take, for we tempted him with Beads, Money, Hatchets, Macheats, or long Knives ; but nothing would work on him, till one of our men took a Sky-coloured Petticoat out of his bag and put it on his Wife, who was so much pleased with the Present, that she immediately began to chatter to her Husband, and soon brought him into a better humour. He could then tell us that he knew the way to the North side, and would have gone with us, but that he had cut his foot 2 days before, which made him uncapable of serving us himself : But he would take care that we should not want a guide ; and therefore he hired the same Indian who brought us hither, to conduct us 2 days march further for another Hatchet. The old man would have stayed us here all the day, because it rained very hard ; but our business required more haste, our Enemies lying so near us ; for he told us that he could go from his house aboard the Guard Ship in a Tydes time ; and this was the 4th day since they saw us. So we marched 3 mile farther, and [img: petticoat-1.jpg // Sky blue petticoat pleases wife.] [p14] [An. 1681] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] and then built Hutts where we stayed all night ; it rained all the afternoon, and the greatest part of the night. The 4th day we began our march betimes, for the forenoons were commonly fair, but much rain afternoon : tho whether it rained or shined it was much at one with us, for I verily believe we crost the Rivers 30 times this day ; the Indians having no paths to travel from one part of the Country to another, and therefore guiding themselves by the Rivers. We marched this day 12 miles, and then built our Hutts and lay down to sleep ; but we al- ways kept two men on the watch ; otherwise our own Slaves might have knockt us on head while we slept. It rained violently all the afternoon, and most part of the night. We had much ado to kindle a fire this evening : our Hutts were but very mean and ordinary, and our Fire small, so that we could not dry our Cloaths, scarce warm our selves, and no sort of food for the Belly ; all which made it very hard with us. I confess these hardships quite expell'd the thoughts of an Enemy, for now having been 4 days in the Country, we began to have but few other cares than how to get Guides and Food ; the Spaniards were seldom in our thoughts. The 5th day we set out in the morning betimes, and having travelled 7 miles in those wild pathless Woods, by 10 a clock in the morning we arrived at a young Spanish Indian's house, who had former- ly lived with the Bishop of Panama. The young Indian was very brisk, spoke very good Spanish, and received us very kindly. This Plantation afforded us store of Provision, Yams, and Potatoes, but no- thing of any flesh, beside two fat Monkeys we shot, part whereof we destributed to some of our Com- pany, who were weak and sickly ; for others we got Eggs, and such refreshments as the Indians had, for we still provided for the sick and weak. We had [p15] [An. 1681] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] had a Spanish Indian in our Company, who first took up Arms with Captain Sawkins, and had been with us ever since his death. He was perswaded to live here by the master of the house, who promised him his Sister in marriage, and to be assistant to him in clearing a Plantation ; but we would not consent to part from him here, for fear of some trea- chery, but promised to release him in two or three days, when we were certainly out of danger of our Enemies. We stayed here all the Afternoon, and dryed our Cloaths, and Ammunition, cleared our Guns, and provided our selves for a march the next morning. Our Chyrurgeon Mr. Wafer came to a sad dis- aster here : Being drying his Powder, a careless fel- low passed by with his Pipe lighted, and set fire to his Powder, which blew up and scorcht d his Knee ; and reduced him to that condition, that he was not able to march ; wherefore we allowed him a slave to carry his things, being all of us the more concern'd at the accident, because lyable our selves every moment to misfortune, and none to look after us but him. This Indian Plantation was seated on the bank of the River Congo, in a very fat Soyl, and thus far we might have come in our Canoa, if I could have perswaded them to it. The 6th day we set out again, having hired ano- ther guide. Here we first crost the River Congo in a Canoa, having been from our first Landing on the West side of the River, and being over, we march- ed to the Eastwards 2 mile, and came to another River, which we forded several times, though it was very deep. Two of our men were not able to keep company with us, but came after us as they were able. The last time we forded the River, it was so deep, that our tallest men stood in the deep- est place, and handed the sick, weak, and short men ; by which means we all got over safe, ex- cept [p16] [An. 1681.] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] cept those two who were behind: Foreseeing a necessity of wading through Rivers frequently in our Land-march, I took care before I left the Ship, to provide my self a large Joint of Bambo, which I stopt at both ends, closing it with Wax, so as to keep out any Water. In this I preserved my Jour- nal and other Writings from being wet, tho I was often forced to swim. When we were over this River, we sat down to wait the coming of our Conforts who were left behind, and in half an hour they came. But the River by that time was so high, that they could not get over it, neither could we help them over, but bid them be of good comfort, and stay till the River did fall: But we marched 2 mile farther by the side of the River, and there built our Hutts, having gone this day 6 miles. We had scarce finished our Hutts before the River rose much higher, and overflowing the Banks, obliged us to remove into higher ground: But the next night came on before we could build more Hutts, so we lay straggling in the Woods, some under one Tree, some under another, as we could find conveniency, which might have been in- different comfortable if the weather had been fair; but the greatest part of the night we had extraor- dinary hard Rain, with much lightening and terri- ble claps of Thunder. These hardships and incon- veniences made us all careless, and there was no Watch kept, (tho I believe no body did sleep :) So our slaves taking opportunity, went away in the night; all but one, who was hid in some hole and knew nothing of their design, or else fell asleep. Those that went away carried with them, our Chyrurgeons Gun and all his Money. The next morning being the 8th day, we went to the Rivers side, and found it much fallen ; and here our Guide would have us ford it again, which being deep, and the current running swift we could not. [p17] [An. 1681] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] not. Then we contrived to swim over; those that could not swim, we were resolved to help o- ver as well as we could: But this was not so seiza- ble: for we should not be able to get all our things over. At length we concluded to send one man over with a Line, who should hale over all our things first, and then get the men over. This be- ing agreed on, one George Gayny took the end of a Line, and made it fast about his Neck, and left the other end ashore, and one man stood by the Line, to clear it away to him. But when Gayny was in the midst of the water, the Line in drawing after him chanc'd to kink, or grow entangled; and he that stood by to clear it away, stopt the Line, which turned Gayny on his back, and he that had the Line in his hand threw it all into the River after him, thinking he might recover himself; but the stream running very swift, and the man having three hun- dred Dollars at his back, was carried down, and never seen more by us. Those two men whom we left behind the day before, told us afterwards that they found him lying dead in a Creek, where the Eddy had driven him ashore, and the Money on his back ; but they meddled not with any of it; being only in care how to work their way through a wild unknown Country. This put a period to that contrivance. This was the fourth man that we lost in this Land-Journey; for those two men that we left the day before did not come to us till we were in the North Seas, so we yielded them also for lost. Being frustrated of getting over the River this way, we lookt about for a Tree to fell across the River. At length we found one, which we cut down, and it reach'd clear over: on this we passed to the other side, where we found a small Plantain-walk, which we soon ranfackt. While we were busie getting Plantains our Guide was gone, but in less than two hours came to us again, [p18] [An. 1681.] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] again, and brought with him an old Indian, to whom he deliver'd up his charge; and we gave him a Hatchet and dismist him, and entered our selves under the conduct of our new Guide: who imme- diately led us away, and crost another River, and enter'd into a large Valley of the fattest Land I did ever take notice of; the Trees were not very thick, but the largest that I saw in all my travels: We saw great tracks which were made by the Pecaries, but saw none of them. We march'd in this pleasant Coun- try till 3 a clock in the afternoon, in all about 4 miles, and then arrived at the old mans Country- house, which was only a habitation for Hunting: there was a small Plantain-walk, some Yams and Potatoes. Here we took up our quarters for this day, and refreshed our selves with such food as the place afforded, and dryed our Cloaths and Ammu- nition. At this place our Indian provided to leave us, for now we thought our selves past danger. This was he that was perswaded to stay at the last house we came from, to marry the young mans Sister ; and we dismiss'd him according to our pro- mise. The ninth day the old man conducted us towards his own habitation. We marched about 5 miles in this Valley; and then ascended a Hill, and travel- led about 5 miles farther over two or three small Hills, before we came to any settlement. Half a mile before we came to the Plantations we light of a path, which carried us to the Indians habitations. We saw many wooden Crosses erected in the way, which created some jealousie in us that here were fome Spaniards : Therefore we new primed all our Guns, and provided our selves for an Enemy; but coming into the Town found none but Indians, who were all get together in a large house to receive us: for the old man had a little boy with him that he sent before. They [p19] [An. 1681.] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] They made us welcome to such as they had, which was very mean; for these were new Planta- tions, the Corn being not eared. Patatoes, Yams, and Plantains they had none, but what they brought from their old Plantations. There were none of them spoke good Spanish : Two young men could speak a little; it caused us to take more notice of them. To these we made a Present, and desired them to get us a Guide to conduct us to the North side, or part of the way, which they promised to do themselves, if we would reward them for it, but told us we must lye still the next day. But we thought our selves nearer the North Sea than we were, and and proposed to go without a Guide, ra- ther than stay here a whole day. However some of our men who were tired resolved to stay behind; and Mr. Wafer our Chirurgeon, who marched in great pain ever since his Knee was burned with powder, was resolved to stay with them. The tenth day we got up betimes resolving to march, but the Indians opposed it as much as they could: but seeing they could not perswade us to stay, they came with us; and having taken leave of our friends, we set out. Here therefore we left the Chirurgeon and two more, as we said, and marched away to the East- ward, following our Guides. But we often look d on our Pocket-Compasses, and shewed them to the Guides, pointing at the way that we would go, which made them shake their heads, and say, they were pretty things, but not convenient for us. Af- ter we had descended the Hill on which the Town stood, we came down into a Valley, and guided our selves by a River, which we crossed 22 times; and having marched 9 miles, we built Hutts and lay there all night. This Evening I kill'da Quáum, a large Bird as big as a Futkey, wherewith we treated our Guides, for we brought no Provision with [p20] [An. 1681] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] with us. This night our last Slave run away. The eleventh day we marched 10 mile farther, and built Hutts at night; but went supperless to bed. The twelfth in the morning we crossed a deep River, passing over it on a Tree, and marched 7 mile in a low swampy ground, and came to the side of a great deep River, but could not get over. We built Hutts upon its Banks and lay there all night, upon our Barbecu's, or frames of Sticks, raised about 3 foot from the ground. The thirteenth day, when we turned out, the River had overflowed its Banks, and was 2 foot deep in our Hutts, and our Guides went from us not tel- ling us their intent, which made us think they were returned home again. Now we began to repent our haste in coming from the last settlements, for we had no food since we came from thence. Indeed we got Macaw-berries in this place, wherewith we fatisfied our selves this day, though coursly. The fourteenth day in the morning betimes, our Guides came to us again; and the Waters being fallen within their bounds, they carry'd us to a Tree that stood on the Bank of the River, and told us if we could fell that Tree cross it, we might pass ; if not, we could pass no further. Therefore we set two of the best Ax-men that we had, who fell'd it exactly cross the River, and the bows just reached over; on this we passed very safe. We afterwards crossed another River three times, with much difficulty, and at 3 a Clock in the afternoon we came to an Indian settlement, where we met a drove of Monkeys, and kill'd 4 of them, and stay- ed here all night; having marched this day 6 miles. Here we got Plantains enough, and a kind recepti- on of the Indian that lived here all alone, except one boy to wait on him. The [p21] [An. 1681.] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] The fifteenth day when we set out, the kind Indian and his boy went with us in a Canoa, and set us over such places as we could not ford: and being past those great Rivers, he returned back a- gain, having helped us at least 2 mile. We marched afterwards 5 mile, and came to large Plantain walks, where we took up our quarters that night; we there fed plentifully on Plantains, both ripe and green, and had fair weather all the day and night. I think these were the largest Plantains walks, and the biggest Plantains that ever I saw, but no house near them: We gathered what we pleased by our Guides orders. The sixteenth day we marched 3 mile, and came to a large settlement, where we abode all day: Not a man of us but wisht the Journey at an end; our Feet being blistered, and our Thighs stript with wading through so many Rivers; the way being al- most continually through Rivers, or pathless Woods. In the afternoon five of us went to seek for game, and kill'd 3 Monkeys, which we drest for Supper. Here we first began to have fair Weather, which continued with us till we came to the North Seas. The eighteenth day we set out at 10 a Clock; and the Indians with 5 Canoas carried us a league up a River; and when we landed the kind Indians went with us and carried our burthens. We marched 3 mile farther and then built our Hutts, having tra- velled from the last settlements 6 miles. The nineteenth day our Guides lost their way, and we did not march above 2 miles. The twentieth day by 12 a Clock we came to Cheapo River. The Rivers we croft hitherto run all into the South Seas; and this of Cheapo was the last we met with that run that way. Here an old man who came from the last settlements, distributed his burthen of Plantains amongst us, and taking his leave returned home. Afterward we forded the River and [p22] [An. 1681.] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] and marched to the foot of a very high Mountain, where we lay all night. This day we marched a- bout 9 miles. The 21st day some of the Indians returned back, and we marched up a very high mountain; being on the top,we went some miles on a ridge,and steep on both sides; then descended a little, and came to a fine Spring, where we lay all night, having gone this day about 9 miles, the weather still very fair and clear. The 22d day we marched over another very high Mountain, keeping on the ridge 5 miles. When we came to the North end, we, to our great comfort, saw the Sea; then we descended and part- ed our selves into 3 Companies, and lay by the side of a River, which was the first we met that runs into the North Sea. The 23d day we came through several large Plan- tain walks, and at 10 a Clock, came to an Indians habitation, not far from the North Sea. Here we got Canoas to carry us down the River Conception to the Sea side; having gone this day about 7 miles. We found a great many Indians at the mouth of this River: They had settled themselves here for the be- nefit of Trade with the Privateers; and their Com- modities were Yams, Potatoes, Plantains, Sugar, Canes, Fowls, and Eggs. These Indians told us, that there had been a great many English and French Ships here, which were all gone but one Barco-longo, a French Privateer that lay at La Sound's Key or Island. This Island is about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Conception, and is one of the Samballoes, a range of Islands reaching for about 20 leagues, from point Samballas to Gol- den-Island Eastward. These Islands or Keys, as we call them, were first made the Rendezvous of Pri- vateers in the year 1679, being very convenient for careening, and had names given to some of them [p23] [An. 1681] [A Journey over the Isthmus of America.] them by the Captains of the Privateers; as this La-Sound's Key particularly. Thus we finished our Journey from the South Sea to the North in 23 days; in which time by my ac- count, we travelled 110 miles, crossing some very high Mountains; but our common march was in the Valleys among deep and dangerous Rivers. At our first landing in this Country, we were told that the Indians were our Enemies; we knew the Rivers to be deep, the wet season to be coming in; yet excepting those we left behind, we lost but one man, who was drowned as I said. Our first land- ing place on the South Coast was very disadvanta- geous, for we travelled at least 50 miles more than we need to have done, could we have gone up Cheapo River, or Santa Maria River; for at either of these places a man may pass from Sea to Sea in 3 days time with ease. The Indians can do it in a day and a half, by which you may see how easy it is for a party of men to travel over. I must con- fess the Indians did assist us very much, and I questi- on whether ever we had got over without their assi- stance, because they brought us from time to time to their Plantations, where we always got Provisi- on, which else we should have wanted. But if a party of 500, or 600 men, or more, were minded to travel from the North to the South Seas, they may do it without asking leave of the Indians; though it be much better to be friends with them. On the 24th of May, (having lain one night at the Rivers mouth) we all went on board the Privateer, who lay at La Sound s Key. It was a French Vessel, Captain Tristian Commander. The first thing we did was to get such things as we could to gratific our Indian Guides, for we were resolved to reward them to their hearts content. This we did by giv- ing them Beads, Knives, Sciffars, and Looking- glasses, which we bought of the Privateers Crew; and [p24] [An. 1681] [The Author's Arrival at the North Seas.] and half a Dollar a man from each of us; which we would have bestowed in goods also, but could not get any, the Privateer having no more toys. They were so well satisfy d with these, that they return'd with joy to their friends; and were very kind to our Conforts whom we left behind; as Mr. Wafer our Chyrurgeon and the rest of them told us, when they came to us some months af- terwards, as shall be said hereafter. I might have given a further account of several things relating to this Country; the In-land parts of which are so little known to the Europeans. But I shall leave this province to Mr. Wafer, who made a longer abode in it than I; and is better able to do it than any man that I know; and is now preparing a particular Description of this Country for the Press.