[ch3 is page 25-66] 25 An. 1681 CHAP. III. The Authors cruising with the Privateers in the North Seas on the West-India Coast. They go to the Isle of St. Andreas. Of the Cedars there. The Corn-Islands, and their Inhabitants. Blewfields River, and an Account of the Ma- natee there, or Sea-Cow; with the manner how the Moskito Indians kill them, and Tor- toise, &c. The Maho-tree. The Savages of Bocca-toro. He touches again at Point Sam- ballas, and its Islands. The Groves of Sapadil- laes there, the Soldier-Insect, and Mancha- neel Tree. The River of Darien, and the Wild Indians near it; Monastery of Madre de Po- pa, Rio Grande, Santa Martha Town, and the high Mountain there; Rio la Hacha Town, Rancho Reys, and Pearl-Fishery there; the Indian Inhabitants and Country. Dutch Isle of Querilao, &c. Count D'Estree's unfortunate Expedition thither. Isle of Bon Airy. Isle of Aves, the Booby, and Man of War Bird: The Wreck of D Estree's Fleet, and Captain Pain's Adventure here. Little Isle of Aves. The Isles Roca's; the Noddy and Tropick Bird, Mineral Water, Egg-Birds; the Man- grove Trees, black, red, and white. Isle of Tortuga, its Salt-Ponds. Isle of Blanco; the Guano Animal, their Variety; and the best Sea-Tortoise. Modern Alterations in the West-Indies. The Coast of Caraccus, its re- markable 26 An. 1681 Privateers in the North Seas. markable Land, and Product of the best Cacao Nuts. The Cacao described at large, with the Husbandry of it. City of Caraccus. La Guiare Fort and Haven. Town of Comana. Verina, its famous best Spanish Tobacco. The rich Trade of the Coast of Caraccus. Of the Sucking Fish, or Remora. The Authors Arrival in Virginia. The Privateer on board which we went being now clean'd, and our Indian Guides thus satis- fy'd and set ashore, we set sail in two days for Springer's Key, another of the Samballoe's Isles, and about 7 or 8 leagues from La Sound's Key. Here lay 8 fail of Privateers more, viz. Capt. Coxon, 10 Guns, 100 Men. Capt. Payne, 10 Guns, 100 Men. Capt. Wright, } 4 Guns, 40 Men. a Barcolongo Capt. Williams, a small Barcolongo Capt. Yankes a Barco-longo 4 Guns, about 60 Men, English, Dutch, and French; himself a Dutchman. Capt. Archemboe, 8 Guns, 40 Men. Capt. Tucker, 6 Guns, 70 Men. Capt. Rose, a Barco-longo. An hour before we came to the Fleet, Captain Wright, who had been sent to Chagra River, arrived at Springer's Key, with a large Canoa or Pereago laden with Flower, which he took there. Some of the Prisoners belonging to the Pereago, came from Panama not above 6 days before he took her, and told the news of our coming over land, and like- wife related the condition and strengrh of Panama, which was the main thing they enquired after; for Captain Wright was sent thither purposely to get a Prisoner that was able to inform them of the strength of that City, because these Privateers de- signed to joyn all their force, and by the assistance 27 An. 1681 The Privateers Intelligences. of the Indians, (who had promised to be their Guides) to march over land to Panama; and there is no other way of getting Prisoners for that purpose, but by absconding between Chagra and Portabell, because there are much Goods brought that way from Pana- ma; especially when the Armado lyeth at Portabell. All the Commanders were aboard of Captain Wright when we came into the Fleet; and were mighty inquisitive of the Prisoners to know the truth of what they related concerning us. But as soon as they knew we were come, they immediately came aboard of Captain Tristian, being all overjoy'd to see us, for Captain Coxon, and many others, had left us in the South Seas about 12 months since, and had never heard what became of us since that time. They enquired of us what we did there? how we lived? how far we had been? and what discoveries we made in those Seas? After we had answered these general questions, they began to be more par- ticular, in examining us concerning our passage through the Country from the South Seas. We re- lated the whole matter, giving them an account of the fatigues of our march, and the inconveniencies we suffered by the rains; and disheartned them quite from that design. Then they proposed several other places where such a party of men as were now got together might make a Voyage; but the objections of some or other still hinder'd any proceeding: For the Privateers have an account of most Towns within 20 leagues of the Sea, on all the Coast from Trinidado down to La Vera Cruz; and are able to give a near guess of the strength and riches of them: For they make it their business to examine all Prisoners that fall into their hands, concerning the Country, Town, or City that they belong to; whether born there, or how long they have known it? how ma- ny families? whether most Spaniards? or whether 28 An. 1681 Cruising on the West-India Coast. the major part are not Copper-colour'd, as Mulattoes, Mustesoes, or Indians? whether rich, and what their riches do consist in? and what their chiefest manu- factures? If fortified, how many great Guns, and what number of small Arms? Whether it is possible to come undecried on them? How many Look-outs or Centinels? for such the Spaniards always keep; and how the Look-outs are placed? Whether possible to avoid the Look-outs, or take them? If any River or Creek comes near it, or where the best Landing? with innumerable other such questions, which their curiosities lead them to demand. And if they have had any former discourse of such places from other Prisoners, they compare one with the other; then examine again, and enquire if he or any of them, are capable to be Guides to conduct a party of men thither: if not, where and how any Prisoner may be taken that may do it; and from thence they af- terwards lay their Schemes to prosecute whatever design they take in hand. It was 7 or 8 days after before any resolution was taken, yet consultations were held every day. The French seemed very forward to go to any Town that the English could or would propose, because the Go- vernour of Petit-Guavos (from whom the Privateers take Commissions) had recommended a Gentleman lately come from France to be General of the Expe- dition; and sent word by Captain Tucker, with whom this Gentleman came, that they should, if possible, make an attempt on some Town before he return'd again. The English, when they were in company with the French, seem'd to approve of what the French said, but never look'd on that Gene- ral to be fit for the service in hand. At length it was concluded to go to a Town, the name of which I have forgot; it lieth a great way in the Country, but not such a tedious march as it would be from hence to Panama. Our way to it 29 An. 1681 The Isle of St. Andreas. lay up Carpenter's River, which is about 60 leagues to the Westward of Portabell. Our greatest obstructi- on in this design was our want of Boats: Therefore it was concluded to go with all our Fleet to St. An- dreas, a small uninhabited Island, lying near the Isle of Providence, to the Westward of it, in 13 Deg. 15 Min. North Lat. and from Portabell N. N. W. about 70 leagues; where we should be but a little way from Carpenter's River. And besides, at this Island we might build Canoas, it being plentifully stored with large Cedars for such a purpose; and for this reason the Jamaica-men come hither frequently to build Sloops; Cedar being very fit for building, and it being to be had here at free-cost, beside other Wood. Jamaica is well stored with Cedars of its own, chiefly among the Rocky Mountains: these also of St. Andreas grow in stony ground, and are the largest that ever I knew or heard of; the Bo- dies alone being ordinarily 40 or 50 foot long, ma- ny 60 or 70, and upwards, and of a proportionable bigness. The Bermudas Isles are well stored with them; so is Virginia, which is generally a sandy foil. I saw none in the East Indies, nor in the South Sea Coast, except on the Isthmus as I came over it. We reckon the Pereago's and Canoa's that are made of Ce- dar to be the best of any; they are nothing but the Tree itself made hollow Boat-wise, with a flat bot- tom, and the Canoa generally sharp at both ends, the Pereago at one only, with the other end flat. But what is commonly said of Cedar, that the Worm will not touch it, is a mistake, for I have seen of it very much worm-eaten. All things being thus concluded on, we failed from hence, directing our course toward St. Andreas. We kept company the first day, but at night it blew a hard gale at N. E. and some of our Ships bore away: The next day others were forced to leave us, and the second night we lost all our company. 30 An. 1681 The Privateers separate. was now belonging to Captain Archemboe, for all the rest of the Fleet were over-mann'd: Captain Ar- chembo wanting men, we that came out of the South Seas must either fail with him, or remain among the Indians. Indeed we found no cause to dislike the Captain; but his French Sea-men were the saddest creatures that I was ever among; for tho we had bad weather that requir'd many hands aloft, yet the biggest part of them never stirr'd out of their Ham- mocks, but to eat or safe themselves. We made a shift to find the Island the fourth day, where we met Captain Wright, who came thither the day be- fore; and had taken a Spanish Tartan, wherein were 30 men, all well armed: She had 4 Patereroes, and some long Guns placed in a Swivel on the Gunnel. They fought an hour before they yielded. The news they related was, that they came from Carta- gena in company of 11 Armadilloes (which are small Vessels of War) to seek for the Fleet of Privateers lying in the Sambaloes: that they parted from the Armadilloes 2 days before: that they were order'd to search the Sambaloes for us, and if they did not find us, then they were order'd to go to Portabell, and lye there till they had farther intelligence of us; and he supposed these Armadilloes to be now there. We that came over Land out of the South Seas be- ing weary of living among the French, desired Cap- tain Wright to fit up his Prize the Tartan, and make a Man of War of her for us, which he at first seemed to decline; because he was settled among the French on Hispaniola, and was very well beloved both by the Governor of Petit-Guavos, and all the Gentry; and they would resent it ill, that Captain Wright, who had no occasion of Men, should be so unkind to Captain Archembo, as to seduce his Men from him; he being so meanly mann'd, that he could hardly fail his Ship with his Frenchmen. We told 31 An.1681 The Corn Ilands him we would no longer remain with Captain Ar- chembo, but would go ashore there, and build Ca- noas to transport our selves down to the Moskitoes, if he would not entertain us ; for Privateers are not obliged to any Ship, but free to go ashore where they please, or to go into any other Ship that will entertain them, only paying for their Provision. When Captain Wright saw our resolutions, he agreed with us on condition we should be under his command, as one Ships Company, to which we una- nimously consented. We staid here about 10 days, to see if any more of our Fleet would come to us ; but there came no more of us to the Iland but three, viz. Captain Wright , Captain Archembo , and Captain Tucker. Therefore we concluded the rest were bore away either for Bocca-toro, or Bluefield's River on the Main ; and we designed to seek them. We had fine wea- ther while we lay here, only some Tornadoes, or Thunder-showers: But in this Isle of St. Andreas there being neither Fish, Fowl, nor Deer, and it being therefore but an ordinary place for us, who had but little Provision, we failed from hence again in quest of our scattered Fleet, directing our course for some Ilands lying near the Main, called by the Privateers the Corn-Ilands ; being in hopes to get Corn there. These Ilands I take to be the same which are generally called in the Maps the Pearl Ilands, lying about the Lat. of 12 D. 10 M. North. Here we arrived the next day, and went ashore on one of them, but found none of the Inhabitants; for here are but a few, poor, naked Indians that live here ; who have been so often plundered by the Privateers that they have but little Provision ; and when they see a Sail they hide themselves ; other- wise Ships that come here would take them, and make Slaves of them ; and I have seen some of them that have been Slaves. They are people of a mean 32 The Indians of the Corn-Ilands An.1681 mean Stature, yet strong Limbs ; they are of a dark copper colour, black Hair, full round Faces, small black Eyes, their Eye-brows hanging over their Eyes ; low Foreheads, short thick Noses, not high, but flattish ; full Lips, and short Chins. They have a fashion to cut holes in the Lips of the Boys when they are young, close to their Chin ; which they keep open with little Pegs till they are 14 or 15 years old : then they wear Beards in them, made of Tur- tle or Tortoise-shell, in the form you see in the Margin. The little notch at the upper end they put in through the Lip, where it remains between the Teeth and the Lip ; the under part hangs down over their Chin. This they commonly wear all day, and when they sleep, they take it out. They have likewise holes bored in their Ears, both Men and Women, when young ; and by continual stretching them with great Pegs, they grow to be as big as a Mill'd Five Shilling piece; Herein they wear pieces of Wood cut very round and smooth ; so that their Ear seems to be all Wood, with a little Skin about it. Another Ornament the Women use is about their Legs, which they are very curious in ; for from the Infancy of the Girls their Mothers make fast a piece of Cotton Cloath about the small of their Leg, from the Ankle to the Calf, very hard ; which makes them have a very full Calf : this the Women wear to their dying day. Both Men and Women go naked, only a Clout a- bout their Wastes ; yet they have but little Feet, though they go barefoot. Finding no Provision here, we failed toward Bluefield River, where we careened our Tartane ; and there Captain Archembo and Captain Tucker left us, and went towards Bocca- toro. This 33 Blewfields River. An.1681 This Blewfields River comes out between the Ri- vers of Nicaragua and Veragua. At its mouth is a fine sandy Bay, where Barks may clean : It is deep at its mouth, but a shoal within ; so that Ships may not enter, yet Barks of 60 or 70 Tuns may. It had this name from Captain Blewfield, a famous Priva- teer living on Providence Iland long before Jamaica was taken. Which Iland of Providence was settled by the English, and belonged to the Earls of Warwick. In this River we found a Canoa coming down the stream ; and though we went with our Canoas to seek for Inhabitants, yet we found none, but saw in 2 or 3 places signs that Indians had made on the side of the River. The Canoa which we found was but meanly made for want of Tools, therefore we concluded these Indians have no commerce with the Spaniards ; nor with other Indians that have. While we lay here, our Moskito men went in their Canoa, and struck us some Manatee, or Sea-cow. Besides this Blewfields River, I have seen the Ma- natee in the Bay of Campechy, on the Coasts of Boc- ca del Drago, and Bocco del Toro, in the River of Da- rien, and among the South Keys or little Ilands of Cuba. I have heard of their being found on the North of Jamaica, a few, and in the Rivers of Su- rinam in great multitudes, which is a very low Land. I have seen of them also at Mindanea one of the Philippine Ilands, and on the Coast of New-Holland. This Creature is about the bigness of a Horse, and 10 or 12 foot long. The mouth of it is much like the mouth of a Cow, having great thick lips. The Eyes are no bigger than a small Pea, the Ears are only two small holes on each side of the Head. The Neck is short and thick, bigger than the Head. The biggest part of this Creature is at the Shoulders, where it hath two large Fins, one on each side of its Belly ; Under each of these Fins the Female hath a small Dug to suckle her young. From the D Shoul- 34 The Manatee, or Sea-Cow. An.1681 Shoulders towards the Tail it retains its bigness for about 2 foot, then groweth smaller and smaller to the very tail, which is flat, and about 14 inches broad, and 20 inches long, and in the middle 4 or 5 inches thick, but about the edges of it not above 2 inches thick. From the head to the tail it is round and smooth without any Fin but those two before mentioned. I have heard that some have weighed above 1200 l. but I never saw any so large. The Manatee delights to live in brackish Water ; and they are commonly in Creeks and Rivers near the Sea. 'Tis for this reason possibly they are not seen in the South Seas (that ever I could observe) where the Coast is generally a bold Shore, that is, high Land and deep Water close home by it, with a high Sea or great Surges ; except in the Bay of Panama : yet even there is no Manatee. Whereas the West- Indies, being, as it were, one great Bay composed of many smaller, are mostly low Land and shoal Water, and afford proper pasture (as I may say) for the Ma- natee. Sometimes we find them in salt Water, sometimes in fresh ; but never far at Sea. And those that live in the Sea at such places where there is no River nor Creek fit for them to enter, yet do commonly come once or twice in 24 hours to the mouth of any fresh Water River that is near their place of abode. They live on Grass 7 or 8 inches long ; and of a narrow blade, which grows in the Sea in many places, especially among Ilands near the Main. This Grass groweth likewise in Creeks, or in great Rivers, near the sides of them, in such places where there is but little tide or current. They never come ashore, nor into shallower water than where they can swim. Their flesh is white, both the fat and the lean, and extraordinary sweet wholsome meat. The tail of a young Cow is most esteemed ; but if old, both head and tail are very tough. A Calf that sucks is the most delicate meat ; Priva- 35 The Manatee, or Sea-Cow. An.1681 Privateers commonly roast them ; as they do also great pieces cut out of the Bellies of the old ones. The Skin of the Manatee is of great use to Priva- teers, for they cut them out into straps, which they make fast on the sides of their Canoas, through which they put their Oars in rowing, instead of tholes or pegs. The Skin of the Bull, or of the back of the Cow is too thick for this use ; but of it they make Horse-whips, cutting them 2 or 3 foot long : at the handle they leave the full substance of the Skin, and from thence cut it away tapering, but very even and square all the four sides. While the Thongs are green they twift them, and hang them to dry ; which in a weeks time become as hard as Wood. The Moskito-men have always a small Canoa for their use to strike Fish, Tortoise, or Manatee, which they keep usually to themselves, and very neat and clean. They use no Oars but Paddles, the broad part of which doth not go tapering towards the staff, pole, or handle of it, as in the Oar ; nor do they use it in the same manner, by laying it on the side of the Vessel ; but hold it perpendicularly, griping the staff hard with both hands, and putting back the water by main strength, and very quick strokes. One of the Moskitoes (for there go but two in a Canoa) sits in the stern, the other kneels down in the head, and both paddle till they come to the place where they expect their game. Then they lye still, or paddle very softly, looking well about them ; and he that is in the head of the Canoa lays down his paddle, and stands up with his striking staff in his hand. This staff is, about 8 foot long, almost as big as a mans Arm, at the great end, in which there is a hole to place his Harpoon in. At the other end of his staff there is a piece of light Wood called Bobwood, with a hole in it, through which the small end of the staff comes, and on this piece of Bobwood, there is a line of 10 or 12 fa- thom D 2 36 The Manatee, or Sea-Cow. An.1681 thom wound neatly about, and the end of the line made fast to it. The other end of the line is made fast to the Harpoon, which is at the great end of the staff, and the Moskito man keeps about a fathom of it loose in his hand. When he strikes, the Harpoon presently comes out of the staff, and as the Manatee swims away, the line runs off from the bob ; and although at first both staff and bob may be carried under water, yet as the line runs off it will rife a- gain. Then the Moskito men paddle with all their might to get hold of the bob again, and spend usu- ally a quarter of an hour before they get it. When the Manatee begins to be tired, it lyeth still, and then the Moskito men paddle to the bob and take it up, and begin to hale in the line. When the Manatee feels them he swims away again, with the Canoa after him ; then he that steers must be nim- ble to turn the head of the Canoa that way that his consort points, who being in the head of the Canoa, and holding the line, both sees and feels which way the Manatee is swimming. Thus the Ca- noa is towed with a violent motion, till the Ma- natee's strength decays. Then they gather in the line, which they are often forced to let all go to the very end. At length when the Creatures strength is spent, they hale it up to' the Canoas side, and knock it on the head, and tow it to the nearest shore where they make it fast, and seek for ano'her ; which having taken, they go ashore with it, to put it into their Canoa : For it is so heavy that they cannot lift it in, but they hale it up in shoal water as near the shore as they can, and then overset the Canoa, laying one side close to the Manatee. Then they roll it in, which brings the Canoa upright a- gain ; and when they have heav'd out the water, they fasten a line to the other Manatee that lieth a- float, and tow it after them. I have known two Moskito men for a week every day bring aboard two Manatee 37 The Maho-Tree. An.1681 Manatee in this manner ; the least of which hath not weighed less than 600 pound, and that in a very small Canoa, that 3 English men would scarce ad- venture to go in. When they strike a Cow that hath a young one, they seldom miss the Calf, for she commonly takes her young under one of her Fins. But if the Calf is so big that she cannot carry it, or so frightned that she only minds to save her own life, yet the young never leaves her till the Moskito men have an opportunity to strike her. The manner of striking Manatee and Tortoise is much the same ; only when they seek for Manatee they paddle so gently, that they make no noise, and never touch the side of the Canoa with their paddle ; because it is a Creature that hears very well. But they are not so nice when they seek for Tortoise, whose Eyes are better than his Ears. They strike the Tortoise with a square shape Iron peg, the other with a Harpoon. The Moskito-men make their own striking Instruments, as Harpoons, Fish- hooks, and Tortoise-Irons or Pegs. These Pegs, or Tortoise-Irons are made 4 square, sharp at one end, and not much above an inch in length, of such a fi- gure as you see in the Margin. The small spike at the broad end hath the line fa- sten'd to it, and goes also into a hole at the end of the Striking-staff : which when the Tortoise is struck flies off, the Iron and end of the line fastned to it going quite within the Shell, where it is so buried that the Tortoise cannot possibly escape. They make their Lines both for Fishing and Stri- king with the bark of Maho ; which is a sort of Tree or Shrub, that grows plentifully all over the West- Indies ; and whose Bark is made up of strings or threads, very strong. You may draw it off either in flakes or small threads, as you have occasion. 'Tis fit for any manner of Cordage ; and Privateers often make their 38 Savages of Boca-toro. An.1681 their Rigging of it. So much by way of Digression. When we had cleaned our Tartan we failed from hence, bound for Boca-toro, which is an opening between two Ilands about 10 Deg. 10 Min. North Lat. between the Rivers of Veragne and Chagre. Here we met with Captain Yanky, who told us that there had been a Fleet of Spanish Armadilloes to seek us : that Captain Tristian having fallen to Leeward, was coming to Boca-toro, and fell in amongst them, supposing them to be our Fleet: that they fired and cha- ced him, but he Rowed and Towed, and they supposed he got away : that Captain Pain was likewise chaced by them and Captain Williams ; and that they had not seen them since that they lay within the Ilands : that the Spaniards never came in to him ; and that Captain Coxon was in at the Careening place. This Boca-toro is a place that the Privateers use to resort to, as much as any place on all the Coast, be- cause here is plenty of green Tortoise, and a good Careening place. The Indians here have no com- merce with the Spaniards ; but are very barbarous, and will not be dealt with. They have destroyed many Privateers, as they did not long after this some of Captain Pain s men ; who having built a Tent ashore to put his goods in while he Careened his Ship, and some men lying there with their arms, in the night the Indians crept softly into the Tent, and cut off the Heads of 3 or 4 men, and made their escape ; nor was this the first time they had served the Privateers so. There grow on this Coast Vinelloes in great quantity, with which Chocolate is perfumed. These I shall describe elsewhere. Our Fleet being thus scattered, there were now no hopes of getting together again ; therefore every one did what they thought most conducing to ob- tain their ends. Captain Wright, with whom I now was, was resolv'd to cruise on the Coast of Carta- gene ; and it being now almost the Westerly wind season, 39 Point Samballas, and its Ilands. An.1681 season, we failed from hence, and Captain Yanky with us ; and we consorted, because Captain Yanky had no Commission, and was afraid the French would take away his Bark. We past by Scuda, a small Iland (where 'tis said Sir Francis Drake's bowels were bury d) and came to a small River to Westward of Chagre ; where we took two new Canoas, and car- ry d them with us into the Sambaloes. We had the Wind at West, with much rain ; which brought us to Point-Samballas. Here Captain Wright and Cap- tain Yanky left us in the Tartane to fix the Canoas, while they went on the Coast of Cartagene to seek for provision. We cruised in among the Ilands, and kept our Moskito-men, or strikers out, who brought aboard some half-grown Tortoise ; and some of us went ashore every day to hunt for what we could find in the Woods : Sometimes we got Pecary, Warree, or Deer ; at other times we light on a drove of large fat Monkeys, or Quames, Corrofves, (each a large sort of Fowl) Pidgeons, Parrots, or Turtle- doves. We liv'd very well on what we got, not staying long in one place ; but sometimes we would go on the Ilands, where there grow great Groves of Sapadillies, which is a sort of Fruit much like a Pear, but more juicy ; and under those Trees we found plenty of Soldiers, a little kind of Animals that live in Shells, and have two great Claws like a Crab, and are good food. One time our men found a great many large ones, and being sharp-set had them drest, but most of them were very sick afterwards, being poyfoned by them: For on this Iland were many Manchaneel Trees, whose Fruit is like a small Crab, and smells very well, but they are not wholsome ; and we commonly take care of meddling with any Animals that eat them. And this we take for a general rule ; when we find any Fruits that we have not seen before, if we see them peck d by Birds, we may freely eat, but if we see no 40 River of Darien. An.1681 no such sign, we let them alone ; for of this fruit no Birds will taste. Many of these Ilands have of these Manchaneel-Trees growing on them. Thus cruising in among these Ilands, at length we came again to La Sound's Key ; and the day be- fore having met with a Jamaica Sloop that was come over on the Coast to trade, she went with us. It was in the evening when we came to an Anchor, and the next morning we fir'd two Guns for the In- dians that liv'd on the Main to come aboard ; for by this time we concluded we should hear from our five men, that we left in the heart of the Country among the Indians, this being about the latter end of August, and it was the beginning of May when we parted from them. According to our expectati- on the Indians came aboard, and brought our friends with them : Mr. Wafer wore a Clout about him, and was painted like an Indian ; and he was some time aboard before I knew him. One of them, named Richard Cobson, dyed within 3 or 4 days af- ter, and was bury d on La Sound's Key. After this we went to other Keys, to the East- ward of these, to meet Captain Wright and Captain Yanky, who met with a Fleet of Pereagoes laden with Indian Corn, Hog, and Fowls, going to Car- tagene ; being convoyed by a small Armadilly of 2 Guns and 6 Patereroes. Her they chaced ashore, and most of the Pereagoes ; but they got two of them off, and brought them away. Here Captain Wright's and Captain Yanky's Barks were clean'd ; and we stock'd our selves with Corn, and then went towards the Coast of Cartagene. In our way thither we passed by the River of Darien ; which is very broad at the mouth, but not above 6 foot water on a Spring-tyde ; for the Tyde riseth but little here. Captain Coxon, about 6 months be- fore we came out of the South Seas, went up this Ri- ver with a party of men : Every man carry'd a small strong 41 An. 1681 Wild Indians. strong Bag to put his Gold in; expecting great Riches there, tho they got little or none. They rowed up about 100 leagues before they came to any settle- ment, and then found some Spaniards, who lived there to truck with the Indians for Gold; there being Gold Scales in every house. The Spaniards admired how they came so far from the mouth of the River, be- cause there are a fort of Indians living between that place and the Sea, who are very dreadful to the Spa- niards, and will not have any commerce with them, nor with any white people. They use Trunks about 8 foot long, out of which they blow poisoned Darts; and are so silent in their attacks on their Enemies, and retreat so nimbly again, that the Spa- niards can never find them. Their Darts are made of Macaw-wood, being about the bigness and length of a Knitting-needle: one end is wound about with Cotton, the other end is extraordinary sharp and small; and is jagged with notches like a Harpoon: So that whatever it strikes into, it immediately breaks off, by the weight of the biggest end; which it is not of strength to bear, (it being made so flen- der for that purpose) and is very difficult to be got out again, by reason of those notches. These Indi- ans have always War with our Darien friendly Indi- ans, and live on both sides this great River 50 or 60 leagues from the Sea, but not near the mouth of the River. There are abundance of Manatee in this River, and some Creeks belonging to it. This re- lation I had from several men who accompany'd Captain Coxon in that discovery; and from Mr. Cook in particular, who was with them, and is a very intelligent person: He is now chief Mate of a Ship bound to Guinea. To return therefore to the prose- cution of our Voyage; meeting with nothing of note, we passed by Cartagene; which is a City so well known, that I shall say nothing of it. We failed by in sight of it, for it lies open to the Sea; 42 An. 1681 Santa-Martha. Its High Land. and had a fair view of Madre de Popa, or Nuestra Sen- nora de Popa, a Monastery of the Virgin Mary's, standing on the top of a very steep hill just behind Cartagene. It is a place of incredible wealth, by reason of the offerings made here continually; and for this reason often in danger of being visited by the Privateers, did not the neighbourhood of Cartagene keep them in awe. 'Tis, in short, the very Loretto of the West Indies: it hath innumerable Miracles re- lated of it. Any misfortune that befalls the Priva- teers is attributed to this Lady s doing; and the Spaniards report that she was abroad that night the Oxford Man of War was blown up at the Isle of Vacca near Hispaniola, and that she came home all wet; as, belike, she often returns with her Cloaths dirty and torn with passing thro Woods, and bad ways, when she has been out upon any expedition; deserving doubtless a new suit for such eminent pieces of service. From hence we passed on to the Rio Grande, where we took up fresh Water at Sea, a league off the mouth of that River. From thence we failed East- ward, passing by St. Martha, a large Town, and good harbour, belonging to the Spaniards: yet hath it within these few years been twice taken by the Privateers. It stands close upon the Sea, and the Hill within land is a very large one, towering up a great heighth from a vast body of Land. I am of opinion that it is higher than the Pike of Tenariff; others also that have seen both think the same; tho its bigness makes its heighth less sensible. I have seen it in passing by, 30 leagues off at Sea; others, as they told me, above 60: and several have told me, that they have seen at once, Jamaica, Hispaniola, and the high Land of Santa Martha; and yet the near- est of these two places is distant from it 120 leagues; and Jamaica, which is farthest off, is accounted near 150 leagues; and I question whether any Land on either of those two Islands may be seen 50 leagues. 43 An. 1681 Pearl-Fishery. It's head is generally hid in the Clouds; but in clear weather, when the top appears, it looks white; supposed to be covered with Snow. St. Martha lieth in the Lat. of 12 Deg. North. Being advanced 5 or 6 leagues to the Eastward of Santa Martha, we left our Ships at Anchor, and re- turn'd back in our Canoa's to the River Grande; en- tring it by a mouth of it that disembogues it self near Santa Martha: purposing to attempt some Towns that lye a pretty way up that River. But this design meeting with discourgagements, we re- turn'd to our Ships, and set sail to Rio la Hacha. This hath been a strong Spanish Town, and is well built; but being often taken by the Privateers, the Spaniards deserted it some time before our arrival. It lieth to the Westward of a River; and right a- gainst the Town is a good Road for Ships, the bot- tom clean and sandy. The Jamaica Sloops used of- ten to come over to trade here: and I am inform'd that the Spaniards have again settled themselves in it, and made it very strong. We enter'd the Fort, and brought two small Guns aboard. From thence we went to the Rancho-Reys, one or two small Indian Villages, where the Spaniards keep two Barks to fish for Pearl. The Pearl-banks lye about 4 or 5 leagues off from the shore, as I have been told; thither the Fishing-Barks go and anchor; then the Divers go down to the bottom, and fill a Basket (which is let down before) with Oysters; and when they come up, others go down, two at a time; this they do till the Bark is full, and then go ashore, where the old men, women and children of the Indians open the Oysters, there being a Spanish Over- seer to look after the Pearl. Yet these Indians do very often secure the best Pearl for themselves, as many Ja- maica men can testifie who daily trade with them. The meat they string up, and hang it a drying. At this place we went ashore, where we found one of the Barks, 44 An. 1681 Cruising in the West Indies. Barks, and saw great heaps of Oyster-shells, but the people all fled: Yet in another place, between this and Rio La Hacha, we took some of the Indians, who seem to be a stubborn fort of people: They are long-visaged, black hair, their noses somewhat ri- fing in the middle, and of a stern look. The Spani- ards report them to be a very numerous Nation; and that they will not subject themselves to their yoak: Yet they have Spanish Priests among them; and by trading have brought them to be somewhat fociable; but cannot keep a severe hand over them. The Land is but barren, it being of a light sand near the Sea; and most Savanah, or Champian; and the grass but thin and course, yet they feed plenty of Cattle. Every man knoweth his own, and looketh after them; but the Land is in common, except only their Houses or small Plantations where they live, which every man maintains with some fence about it. They may remove from one place to another as they please, no man having right to any Land but what he poffeffeth. This part of the Country is not so subject to Rain as to the West- ward of Santa Martha; yet here are Tornadoes, or Thunder-showers; but neither so violent as on the Coast of Portabell, nor so frequent. The Westerly winds in the Westerly wind season blow here, tho not so strong nor lasting as on the Coasts of Carta- gene and Portabell. When we had spent some time here, we return'd again towards the Coast of Cartagene; and being be- tween Rio Grande and that place, we met with Westerly winds, which kept us still to the Eastward of Cartagene 3 or 4 days; and then in the morning we descryed a Sail off at Sea, and we chaced her at noon: Captain Wright, who sailed best, came up with her, and engaged her; and in half an hour after, Captain Yanky, who sailed better than the Tartan (the Veffel that I was in) came up with her like- 45 An. 1681 Isle of Querisao. likewise, and laid her aboard, then Captain Wright also; and they took her before we came up. They lost 2 or 3 men, and had 7 or 8 wounded. The Prize was a Ship of 12 Guns and 40 men, who had all good small Arms: She was laden with Sugar and Tobacco, and had 8 or 10 Tuns of Marmalett on board: She came from Saint Jago on Cuba, and was bound to Cartagene. We went back with her to Rio Grande, to fix our Rigging, which was shattered in the Fight, and to consider what to do with her; for these were com- modities of little use to us, and not worth going into a Port with. At the Rio Grande Captain Wright demanded the Prize as his due by virtue of his Com- mission: Captain Yanky said it was his due by the Law of Privateers. Indeed Captain Wright had the most right to her, having by his Commission pro- tected Captain Yanky from the French, who would have turned him out because he had no Commiffi- on; and he likewise began to engage her first. But the Company were all afraid that Captain Wright would presently carry her into a Port; therefore most of CaptainWrights's Men stuck to Captain Yanky, and Captain Wright losing his Prize, burned his own Bark, and had Captain Yankys's, it being bigger than his own; the Tartan was sold to a Jamaica Trader, and Captain Yanky commanded the Prize Ship. We went again from hence to Rio la Hach, and set the Prisoners ashore: and it being now the beginning of November, we concluded to go to Querisao to sell our Sugar, if favoured by westerly Winds, which were now come in. We failed from thence, having fair weather and Winds to our mind, which brought us to Querisao, a Dutch Island. Captain Wright went a- shore to the Governour, and offered him the Sale of the Sugar: but the Governor told him he had a great Trade with the Spaniards, therefore he could not admit us in there; but if we would go to St. Tho- mas, 46 An. 1681 Isle of Querisao. mas, which is an Island, and Free Port, belonging to the Danes, and a Sanctuary for Privateers, he would send a Sloop with such Goods as we wanted, and Money to buy the Sugar, which he would take at a certain rate; but it was not agreed to. Querisao is the only Island of importance that the Dutch have in the West-Indies. It is about 5 leagues in length, and may be 9 or 10 in circumference: the Northernmost point is laid down in North lat. 12 d. 40 m. and it is about 7 or 8 leagues from the Main, near Cape Roman. On the South side of the East end is a good harbour, called Santa Barbara; but the chiefest harbour is about 3 leagues from the S. E. end, on the South side of it; where the Dutch have a very good Town, and a very strong Fort. Ships bound in thither must be sure to keep close to the Harbour's mouth, and have a Hafar or Rope ready to send one end ashore to the Fort: for there is no Anchoring at the entrance of the Harbour, and the Current always sets to the Westward. But being got in, it is a very secure Port for Ships, either to Careen, or lye safe. At the East end are two hills, one of them is much higher than the other, and steepeft toward the North side. The rest of the island is indifferent level; where of late some rich Men have made Sugar works; which formerly was all pa- sture for Cattle: there are also some small Planta- tions of Potatoes and Yames, and they have still a great many Cattle on the Island; but it is not so much esteemed for its produce, as for its fituation for the Trade with the Spaniard. Formerly the Har- bour was never without Ships from Cartagene and Portabell, that did use to buy of the Dutch here 1000 or 1500 Negroes at once, besides great quantities of European Commodities; but of late that Trade is fallen into the hands of the English at Jamaica: yet still the Dutch have a vast Trade over all the West Indies, sending from Holland Ships of good force laden with 47 An. 1681 D'Estre's Expedition. with European goods, whereby they make very pro- fitable returns. The Dutch have two other Islands here, but of little moment in comparison of Queri- fao; the one lieth 7 or 8 leagues to the Westward of Querisao, called Aruba; the other 9 or 10 leagues to the Eastward of it, called Bon-Airy. From these Islands the Dutch fetch in Sloops Provision for Queri- fao, to maintain their Garrison and Negroes. I was never at Aruba, therefore cannot say any thing of it as to my own knowledge; but by report it is much like Bon-Airy, which I shall describe, only not so big. Between Querisao aud Bon-Airy is a small Island called Little Querisao, it is not above a league from Great Querisao. The King of France has long had an eye on Querisao, and made some attempts to take it, but never yet succeeded. I have heard that about 23 or 24 years since the Governour had sold it to the French, but dy'd a small time before the Fleet came to demand it; and by his death that design fail'd. Afterwards, in the year 1678, the Count D Estre, who a year before had taken the Isle of Tobago from the Dutch, was sent hither also with a Squadron of stout Ships, very well mann'd, and fitted with Bombs and Carcasses; intending to take it by storm. This Fleet first came to Martinico; where, while they stay'd, orders were sent to Petit-Guavers, for all Pri- vateers to repair thither, and assist the Count in his design. There were but two Privateers Ships that went hither to him, which were mann'd partly with French, partly with English men. These fet out with the Count; but in their way to Querisao, the whole Fleet was loft on a Riff or Ridge of Rocks, that runs off from the Isle of Aves; not above two Ships escaping, one of which was one of the Priva- teers; and so that design perished. Whereof not driving a bargain for our Sugar with the Governour of Querisao; we went from thence to Bon-Airy, another Dutch Island, where we met a Dutch 48 An. 1681 Isle of Bon-Airy. Dutch Sloop come from Europe, laden with Irish Beef; which we bought in exchange for some of our Sugar. Bon-Airy is the Eastermost of the Dutch Islands, and is the largest of the three, tho not the most con- siderable. The middle of the Island is laid down in Lat. 12 d. 16 m. It is about 20 leagues from the Main, and 9 or 10 from Querisao, and is accounted 16 or 17 leagues round. The Road is on the S. W. fide, near the middle of the Island, where there is a pretty deep Bay runs in. Ships that come from the Eastward luff up close to the Eastern shore; and let go their Anchor in 60 fathom water, within half a Cables length of the shore. But at the same time they must be ready with a Boat to carry a Hafar or Rope, and make it fast ashore; otherwise, when the Land-wind comes in the night, the Ship would drive off to Sea again; for the ground is so steep, that no Anchor can hold if once it starts. About half a mile to the Westward of this Anchoring place there is a small low Island, and a Channel between it and the main Island. The Houses are about half a mile within Land, right in the Road: There is a Governour lives here, a Deputy to the Governor of Querisao, and 7 or 8 Soldiers, with 5 or 6 Families of Indians. There is no Fort; and the Soldiers in peaceable times have little to do but to eat and sleep, for they never watch, but in time of War. The Indians are Hus- band-men, and plant Maiz and Guinea Corn, and some Yames, and Potatoes: But their chiefest busi- ness is about Cattle; for this Island is plentifully stocked with Goats; and they send great quantities every year in Salt to Querisao. There are some Horses, and Bulls and Cows; but I never saw any Sheep, though I have been all over the Island. The South side is plain low Land, and there are several forts of Trees, but none very large. There is a small Spring 49 An. 1681 Booby, and Man of War Birds. Spring of water by the Houses, which serves the In- habitants, though it is brackish. At the West end of the Island there is a good Spring of Fresh water, and 3 or 4 Indian Families live there, but no Water nor Houses at any other place. On the South side, near the East-end, is a good Salt-pond, where Dutch Sloops come for Salt. From Bon-Airy we went to the Isle of Aves, or Birds; so called from its great plenty of Birds, as Men of War and Boobies; but especially Boobies. The Booby is a Water-fowl, somewhat less than a Hen, of a light greyish colour. I observ'd the Boobies of this Island to be whiter than others. This Bird hath a strong Bill, longer and bigger than a Crows, and broader at the end; her Feet are flat like a Ducks Feet. It is a very simple creature, and will hardly go out of a mans way. In other places they build their Nests on the ground, but here they build on Trees; which I never saw any where else: tho I have seen of them in a great many places. Their Flesh is black and eats Filthy, but are often eaten by the Privateers. Their numbers have been much lef- fen'd by the French Fleet, which lay here till it was lost, as I shall give an account. The Man of War (as it is called by the English) is about the bigness of a Kite, and in shape like it, but black; and the Neck is red. It lives on Fish, yet never lights on the Water, but soars aloft like a Kite; and when it sees its prey, it flys down head fore- most to the waters edge, very swiftly takes his prey out of the Sea with his Bill, and immediately mounts again as swiftly; and never touching the Water but with his Bill. His Wings are very long: His Feet are like other Land-Fowl; and he builds on Trees, where he finds any; but, where they are wanting, on the ground. This Island Aves lies about 8. or 9 leagues to the Eastward of the Island Bon-airy, about 14 or 15 leagues 50 An. 1681 D'Estree's Shipwreck. from the Main, and about the lat. of 11 d. 45 m. North. It is but small, not above 4 mile in length, and towards the East end not half a mile broad. On the North side it is low Land, commonly overflown with the Tide; but on the South side there is a great Rocky Bank of Coral thrown up by the Sea. The West end is for near a mile space, plain evenSavanah Land, without any Trees. There are 2 or 3 Wells dug by Privateers, who often frequent this Island, because there is a good Harbor about the middle of it on the North side, where they may conveniently careen. The Riff or Bank of Rocks on which the French Fleet was lost, as I mentioned above, runs a- long from the East end to the Northward about 3 mile; then tends away to the Westward, making as it were a Half Moon. This Riff breaks off all the Sea, and there is good riding in even sandy ground to the Westward of it. There are 2 or 3 small low sandy Key's or Islands within this Riff, about 3 miles from the Main Island. The Count de Estree lost his Fleet here in this manner. Coming from the Eastward he fell in on the back of the Riff, and fired Guns to give warning to the rest of his Fleet: But they, supposing their Admiral was engaged with Enemies, hoised up their Topfails, and crowd- ed all the Sail they could make, and ran full fail ashore after him; all within half a mile of each o- ther. For his Light being in the Main Top was an unhappy Beacon for them to follow; and there escaped but one Kings-ship, and one Privateer. The Ships continued whole all day, and the Men had time enough, most of them, to get ashore; yet ma- ny perished in the Wreck: and many of those that got safe on the Island, for want of being accustomsd to such hardships, died like rotten Sheep. But the Privateers who had been used to such accidents lived merrily, from whom I had this relation: and they told me, that if they had gone to Jamaica with 30 l. 51 An.1685 Pain's Adventure a Man in their Pockets, they could not have en- joyed themselves more: For they kept in a Gang by themselves, and watched when the Ships broke, to get the Goods that came from them; and though much was saved against the Rocks, yet abundance of Wine and Brandy floated over the Riff, where these Privateers waited to take it up. They lived here about 3 weeks, waiting an opportunity to tran- sport themselves back again to Hispaniola; in all which time they were never without 2 or 3 Hogs- heads of Wine and Brandy in their Tents, and Bar- rels of Beef and Pork; which they could live on without Bread well enough, tho the new-comers out of France could not. There were about 40 Frenchmen on board in one of the Ships where there was good store of Liquor, till the after part of her broke away, and floated over the Riff, and was car- ry'd away to Sea, with all the men drinking and sing- ing; who being in drink did not mind the danger, but were never heard of afterwards. In a short time after this great Shipwrack, Cap- tain Pain, Commander of a Privateer of 6 Guns, had a pleasant accident befel him at this Island. He came hither to Careen, intending to fit himself ve- ry well; for here lay driven on the Island, Masts, Yards, Timbers, and many things that he wanted; therefore he hal'd into the Harbour, close to the Island, and unrigg'd his Ship. Before he had done, a Dutch Ship of 20 Guns, was sent from Querisao to take up the Guns that were lost on the Riff: But seeing a Ship in the Harbour, and knowing her to be a French Privateer, they thought to take her first, and came within a mile of her, and began to fire at her; intending to warp in the next day, for it is very narrow going in. Captain Pain got ashore some of his Guns, and did what he could to resist them; tho he did in a manner conclude he must be taken. But while his men were thus busied, he spy'd a Dutch 52 An.1682 Isles of Little Aves, and Roca's. Dutch Sloop turning to get into the Road, and saw her in the evening anchor at the West end of the Island. This gave him some hope of making his escape; which he did, by fending two Canoas in the night aboard the Sloop, who took her, and got considerable purchase in her; and he went away in her, making a good Reprizal, and leaving his own empty Ship to the Dutch Man of War. There is another Island to the Eastward of the Isle of Aves about 4 leagues, called by Privateers the little Isle of Aves, which is overgrown with Mangrove- trees. I have seen it, but was never on it. There are no Inhabitants that I could learn, on either of these Islands, but Boobies, and a few other Birds. While we were at the Isle of Aves, we careen'd Captain Wrights Bark, and scrubb'd the Sugar-prize; and got 2 Guns out of the Wrecks: continuing here till the beginning of Feb. 168½. We went from hence to the Isles Roca's, to careen the Sugar-prize, which the Isle of Aves was not a place so convenient for. Accordingly we haled close to one of the small Islands, and got our Guns ashore the first thing we did, and built a Breastwork on the point, and planted all our Guns there, to hin- der an Enemy from coming to us while we lay on the Careen: Then we made a House, and cover'd it with our Sails, to put our goods and provisions in. While we lay here, a French Man of War of 36 Guns, came thro the Keys, or Little Islands; to whom we sold about 10 Tun of Sugar. I was a- board twice or thrice, and very kindly welcomed both by the Captain and his Lieutenant, who was a Cavalier of Malta; and they both offer d me great encouragement in France, if I would go with them; but I ever design'd to continue with those of my own Nation. The Islands Roca's are a parcel of small uninhabit- ed Islands, lying about the Lat. of 11 d. 40 min. about 531 An.1682 The Noddy, and Tropick Birds. about 15 or 16 leagues from the Main, and about 20 leagues N. W. b. W. from Tortuga, and 6 or 7 leagues to the Westward of Orchilla, another Island lying about the same distance from the Main; which Island I have seen but was never at it. Roca's stretch themselves East and West about 5 leagues, and their breadth is about 3 leagues. The northern- most of these Islands is the most remarkable by rea- son of a high white rocky Hill at the West end of it, which may be seen a great way; and on it there are abundance of Tropick Birds, Men of War, Boo- by and Noddys, which breed there. The Booby, and Man of War, I have described already. The Noddy is a small Black Bird, much about the bigness of the English Black-bird, and indifferent good meat. They build in Rocks. We never find them far off from Shore. I have seen of them in other places; but never saw any of their Nests but in this Island; where there is great plenty of them. The Tropick Bird is as big as a Pigeon, but round and plump like a Partridge. They are all white, except two or three Feathers in each Wing of a light grey. Their Bills are of a yellowish colour, thick and short. They have one long Feather, or rather a Quill, about 7 inches long, grows out at the Rump, which is all the Tail they have: They are never seen far without either Tropick, for which reason they are called Tropick-birds. They are very good food, and we meet with them a great way at Sea; and I never saw of them any where but at Sea, and in this Island; where they build, and are found in great plenty. By the Sea, on the South side of that high Hill, there is fresh Water comes out of the Rocks; but so slowly, that it yields not above 40 gallons in 24 hours; and it tastes so copperish, or aluminous ra- ther, and rough in the mouth, that it seems very unpleasant at first drinking: but after 2 or 3 days any other Water will seem to have no taste. 54 An.1682 Mangrove-Trees. The middle of this Island is low plain Land, over- grown with long Grass, where there are multitudes of small grey Fowls, no bigger than a Black-bird; yet lay Eggs bigger than a Magpy's: and they are therefore by Privateers called Egg-birds. The East end of the Island is overgrown with black Mangrove Trees. There are three sorts of Mangrove-Trees, black, red, and white. The black Mangrove is the largest Tree, the body about as big as an Oak, and about 20 feet high. It is very hard and serviceable Timber, but extraordinary heavy; therefore not much made use of for building. The red Mangrove groweth commonly by the Sea side, or by Rivers, or Creeks. The body is not so big as that of the black Man- grove, but always grows out of many roots, about the bigness of a Mans Leg, some bigger, some less, which at about 6, 8, or 10 foot above the ground, joyn into one trunk or body, that seems to be fup- ported by so many artificial Stakes. Where this sort of Tree grows, it is impossible to march, by reason of these Stakes, which grow so mixt one among another, that I have, when forced to go through them, gone half a mile, and never set my foot on the ground, stepping from root to root. The Timber is hard, and good for many uses. The inside of the Bark is red, and it is used for tanning of Leather very much all over the West Indies. The white Mangrove never groweth so big as the other two sorts, neither is it of any great use: Of the young Trees Privateers use to make Looms, or Han- dles for their Oars; for it is commonly strait, but not very strong, which is the fault of them. Nei- ther the black nor white Mangrove grow towering up from stilts or rising roots, as the red doth; but the body immediately out of the ground, like other Trees. 55 An.1682 Isle of Tortuga. The Land of this East end is light Sand, which is sometimes overflown with the Sea at Spring-tides: The Road for Ships is on the South side, against the middle of the Island. The rest of the Islands of Roca's are low. The next to this on the South side is but small, flat and even, without Trees, bearing only Grass. On the South side of it is a Pond of brackish Water, which sometimes Privateers use in- stead of better; there is likewise good riding by it. About a league from this are two other Islands, not 200 yards distant from each other; yet a deep Channel for Ships to pass through. They are both overgrown with red Mangrove Trees, which Trees, above any of the Mangroves, do flourish best in wet drowned Land, such as these two Islands are; only the East point of the Westernmost Island is dry Sand, without Tree or Bush: On this point we ca- reened, lying on the South side of it. The other Islands are low, and have red Man- groves, and other Trees on them. Here also Ships may ride; but no such place for careening as where we lay; because at that place Ships may hale close to the shore; and if they have but four Guns on the point may secure the Channel, and hinder any Ene- my from coming near them. I observ'd that within, among the Islands, was good riding in many places; but not without the Islands, except to the West- ward, or S. West of them. For on the East, or N.E. of these Islands, the common Trade-Wind blows, and makes a great Sea: and to the South- ward of them there is no ground under 70, 80, or 100 fathom, close by the Land. After we had filled what Water we could from hence, we set out again in April 1682. and came to Salt-Tortuga, so called to distinguish it from the shoals of Dry Tortugas, near Cape Florida, and from the Isle of Tortugas by Hispaniola, which was called formerly French Tortugas; though not having heard any 56 An:1682 Isle of Tortuga. Salt-Ponds. any mention of that name a great while, I am apt to think it is swallowed up in that of Petit-Guavres, the chief Garrison the French have in those parts. This Island we arrived at is pretty large, uninhabited, and abounds with Salt. It is in Lat. 11 degrees North, and lyeth West, and a little Northerly from Marga- rita, an Island inhabited by the Spaniards, strong, and wealthy; it is distant from it about 14 leagues, and 17 or 18 from Cape Blanco on the Main: A Ship being within these Islands, a little to the South- ward, may see at once the Main, Margarita, and Tortuga, when it is clear weather. The East end of Tortuga is full of rugged, bare, broken Rocks, which stretch themselves a little way out to Sea. At the S.E. part is an indifferent good Road for Ships, much frequented in peaceable times by Merchant- ships, that come hither to lade Salt, in the months of May, June, July, and August. For at the East end is a large Salt-pond, within 200 paces of the Sea. The Salt begins to kern, or grain, in April, except it is a dry season; for it is observed that rain makes the Salt kern. I have seen above 20 Sail at a time in this road come to lade Salt; and these Ships coming from some of the Caribbe Islands, are al- ways well stored with Rum, Sugar, and Lime-juice to make Punch; to hearten their Men when they are at work, getting and bringing aboard the Salt; and they commonly provide the more, in hopes to meet with Privateers, whorefort hither in the afore- said months, purposely to keep a Christmas as they call it; being sure to meet with Liquor enough to be merry with, and are very liberal to those that treat them. Near the West end of the Island, on the South side, there is a small Harbour, and some fresh Water: That end of the Island is full of shrub- by Trees; but the East end is rocky and barren as to Trees, producing only coarse Grass. There are some Goats on it, but not many; and Turtle or Tortoise 57 An.1682 The Guano. Isle of Blanco. Tortise come upon the sandy Bays to lay their Eggs: and from them the Island hath its Name. There is no riding any where but in the Road where the Salt-Ponds are, or in the Harbour. At this Isle we thought to have sold our Sugar among the English Ships that come hither for Salt; but failing there, we design'd for Trinidada, an Island near the Main inhabited by the Spaniards, tolerably strong and wealthy: but the Current and Easterly Winds hindering us, we passed through between Margarita and the Main, and went to Blanco, a pret- ty large Island almost North of Margarita; about 30 leagues from the Main, and in 11 d. 50 m. North Lat. It is a flat, even, low, uninhabited Island, dry and healthy; most Savanah, of long Grass, and hath some Trees of Lignum Vita growing in Spots, with shrubby Bushes of other Wood about them. It is plentifully stored with Guanos, which are an Animal like a Lizard, but much bigger. The body is as big as the small of a mans leg, and from the hind quarter the tail grows tapering to the end, which is very small. If a Man takes hold of the tail, except very near the hind quarter, it will part and break off in one of the joints, and the Guano will get away. They lay Eggs, as most of those amphi- bious creatures do, and are very good to eat. Their flesh is much esteemed by Privateers, who commonly dress them for their sick men; for they make very good Broath. They are of divers colours, as almost black, dark brown, light brown, dark green, light green, yellow, and speckled: They all live as well in the Water as on Land; and some of them are constantly in the Water, and among Rocks: These are commonly black. Others that live in swampy wet ground are commonly on Bushes and Trees, these are green. But such as live in dry ground, as here at Blanco, are commonly yellow; yet these al- so will live in the Water, and are sometimes on Trees. 58 An.1682 Modern Changes in the West-Indies. Trees. The Road is on the N. W. end, against a small Cove, or little sandy Bay. There is no ri- ding any where else, for it is deep water and steep close to the Land. There is one small Spring on the West side, and there are sandy Bays round the Island, where Turtle or Tortoise come up in great abundance, going ashore in the night. These that frequent this Island are called green Turtle, and they are the best of that sort, both for largeness and sweetness of any in all the West Indies. I would here give a particular description of these and other sorts of Turtle in these Seas; but because I shall have occasion to mention some other sorts of Turtle when I come again into the South Seas, that are very different from all these, I shall there give a general account of all these several sorts at once, that the difference between them may be the better dis- cerned. Some of our modern Descriptions speak of Goats on this Island. I know not what there may have been formerly, but there are none now to my certain knowledge; for my self and many more of our Crew have been all over it. Indeed these parts have undergone great changes in this last age, as well in places themselves, as in their Owners and Commodities of them; particularly Nombre de Dios, a City once famous, and which still retains a confi- derable name in some late Accounts, is now nothing but a Name. For I have lain ashore in the place where that City stood; but it is all overgrown with Wood, so as to leave no sign that any Town hath been there. We staid at the Isle of Blanco not above 10 days, and then went back to Salt-Tortuga again, where Captain Yanky parted with us: and from thence, after about 4 days, all which time our men were drunk and quarrelling, we in Captain Wrights Ship went to the Coast of Caraccos on the Main Land. This Coast is upon several accounts very remarka- ble: 59 An.1682 Coast of Caraccos. Remarkable Land. ble: 'Tis a continu'd tract of High Ridges of Hills and small Valleys intermix'd, for about 20 leagues, stretching East and West; but in such manner, that the Ridges of Hills and the Valleys alternately run pointing upon the shore from South to North: the Valleys, some of them about 4 or 5, others not a- bove 1 or 2 furlongs wide, and in length from the Sea scarce any of them above 3 or 4 mile at most; there being a long Ridge of Mountains at that di- stance from the Sea-Coast, and in a manner parallel to it, that joins those shorter Ridges, and closeth up the South end of the Valleys; which at the North ends of them lye open to the Sea, and make so ma- ny little Sandy Bays, that are the only Landing- places on all the Coast. Both the main Ridge, and these shorter Ribs are very high Land, so that 3 or 4 leagues off at Sea the Valleys scarce appear to the Eye, but all looks like one great Mountain. From the Isles of Roca's about 15, and from the Isle of Aves about 20 leagues off, we see this Coast very plain from on board our Ships; yet when at Anchor on this Coast we cannot see those Isles: tho again from the tops of these Hills they appear as if at no great distance, like so many Hillocks in a Pond. These Hills are barren, except the lower sides of them, that are cover'd with some of the same rich black Mould that fills the Valleys, and is as good as I have seen. In some of the Valleys there is a strong red Clay, but in the general they are extremely fertil, well watered, and inhabited by Spaniards and their Negro's. They have Maiz and Plantains for their support; with Indian Fowls and some Hogs. But the main product of these Valleys, and indeed the only Commodity it vends, are the Cacao-Nuts, of which the Chocolate is made. The Cacao-Tree grows no where in the North Seas but in the Bay of Campecty, on Costa Rica, between Portabel and Nica- ragua, chiefly up Carpenters River; and on this Coast 60 An.1682 Of the best Cacao-Nuts. as high as the Isle of Trinidada. In the South Seas, it grows on the River of Guiaquil, a little to the Southward of the Line, and in the Valley of Collina, on the South side of the Continent of Mexico: both which places I shall hereafter describe. Besides these, I am confident there is no place in the world where the Cacao grows, except those in Jamaica, of which there are now but few remaining, of many and large Walks or Plantations of them found there by the English at their first arrival, and since planted by them; and even these, though there is a great deal of pains and care bestowed on them, yet seldom come to any thing, being generally blighted. The Nuts of this Coast of Caracco's, though less than those of Costa Rica, which are large flat Nuts, yet are bet- ter and fatter, in my opinion, being so very oily, that we are forced to use Water in rubbing them up; and the Spaniards that live here, instead of parching them to get off the Shell before they pound or rub them, to make Chocolate, do in a manner burn them to dry up the Oil; for else, they say, it would fill them too full of blood, drinking Chocolate, as they do, 5 or 6 times a day. My wor- thy Consort Mr. Ringrose commends most the Guia- quil Nut: I presume because he had little knowledge of the rest; for being intimately acquainted with him, I know the course of his Travels and Experi- ence. But I am persuaded had he known the rest so well as I pretend to have done, who have at several times been long used to, and in a manner lived up- on all the several sorts of them above mentioned, he would prefer the Caraccos Nut before any other; yet possibly the drying up of these Nuts so much by the Spaniards here, as I faid, may lessen their Esteem with those Europeans, that use their Chocolate ready rubb'd up: so that we always chose to make it up our selves. 61 An. 1682 The Cacao-Tree. The Cacao-Tree hath a body about a foot and an half thick (the largest sort) and 7 or 8 foot high to the Branches, which are large, and spreading like an Oak, with a pretty thick, smooth, dark-green leaf, shap'd like that of a Plumb-Tree, but larger. The Nuts are inclosed in Cods as big as both a Mans fists put together: At the broad end of which there is a small, tough, limber stalk, by which they hang pendulous from the body of the Tree, in all parts of it from top to bottom, scattered at irregular distances, and from the greater branches a little way up: especially at the joints of them, or partings, where they hang thickest; but never on the smaller boughs. There may be ordinarily about 20 or 30 of these Cods upon a well-bearing Tree: and they have 2 Crops of them in a year; one in December, but the best in June. The Cod itself or Shell is almost half an inch thick; neither spongy nor woody, but of a substance between both, brittle, yet harder than the Rind of a Lemmon: like which its surface is grained or knobbed, but more course and unequal. The Cods at first are of a dark Green, but the side of them next the Sun of a Muddy Red. As they grow ripe the Green turns to a fine bright Yellow, and the Muddy to a more lively beautiful Red, very pleasant to the Eye. They neither ripen, nor are gather'd at once: but for three weeks or a month, when the Season is, the Overseers of the Plantations go every day about to see which are turn'd yellow; cutting at once, it may be, not a- bove one from a Tree.. The Cods thus gathered they lay in several heaps to sweat; and then burst- ing the Shell with their hands they pull out the Nuts, which are the only substance they contain, having no stalk or pith among them; and (except- ing that these Nuts lye in regular rows, like the grains of Maize, but sticking together; and so close- ly stowed, that after they have been once separated, it 62 An. 1682 City of Caraccos. it would be hard to place them again in so narrow a compass. There are generally near 100 Nuts in a Cod: in proportion to the greatness of which, for it varies, the Nuts are bigger or less. When taken out they dry them in the Sun upon Mats spread on the ground: after which they need no more care, having a thin hard skin of their own, and much Oil, which preserves them. Salt water will not hurt them; for we had our Bags rotten, lying in the bottom of our Ship, and yet the Nuts never the worse. They raise the young Trees of Nuts, set with the great end downward, in fine black Mould, and in the same places where they are to bear; which they do in 4 or 5 years time, without the trouble of transplanting. There are ordinarily of these Trees, from 500 to 2000 and upwards in a Plantation or Cacoa-walk, as they call them: and they shelter the young Trees from the weather with Plaintains set about them for 2 or 4 years; destroy- ing all the Plaintains by such time the Cacoa-Trees are of a pretty good body, and able to endure the heat; which I take to be the most pernicious to them of any thing: for tho these Valleys lye open to the North winds, unless a little shelter'd here and there by some groves of Plaintain Trees, which are purposely set near the Shores of the several Bays, yet, by all that I could either observe or learn, the Cacao's in this Country are never blighted, as I have often known them to be in other places. Ca- coa-Nuts are used as Money in the Bay of Cam- pechy. The chief Town of this Country is called Carac- cos, a good way within Land; 'tis a large wealthy place, where live most of the Owners of these Cacao-walks, that are in the Valleys by the shore; the Plantations being managed by Overseers and Negro's. It is in a large Savanah Country, that abounds with Cattle: and a Spaniard of my acquain- tance, 63 La Guiare. La Comana. Verina. 63 An. 1682 tance, a very sensible man who hath been there, tells me that 'tis very populous, and he judges it to be 3 times as big as Corunna in Gallicia. The way to it is very steep and craggy, over that ridge of of Hills, which I said closes up the Valleys and par- tition Hills of the Cacao Coast. In this Coast it felt the chief place is La Guiare, a good Town close by the Sea; and though it hath but a bad Harbour yet it is much frequented by the Spanish shipping; for the Dutch and English anchor in the sandy Bays that lye here and there in the mouths of several Valleys, and where there is very good riding. The Town is open, but hath a strong Fort; yet both were taken some years since by Captain Wright and his Privateers. 'Tis feared about 4 or 5 leagues to the Westward of Cape Blanco, which Cape is the Eastermost boundary of this Coast of Caraccos. Fur- ther Eastward about 20 leagues is a great lake or branch of the Sea, called La Laguna de Vallenfuella; about which are many rich Towns; but the mouth of the Lake is shallow that no Ships can enter. Near this mouth is a place called Comana, where the Privateers were once repulsed without daring to at- tempt it any more, being the only place in the North Seas they attempted in vain for many years; and the Spaniards since throw it in their teeth fre- quently, as a word of reproach or defiance to them. Not far from the place is Verina, a small Village and Spanish Plantation, famous for its Tobacco, repu- ted the best in the world. But to return to Caraccos, all this Coast is subject to dry winds, generally North-east, which caused us to have scabby Lips: and we always found it thus, and that in different seasons of the year; for I have been on this Coast several times. In other respects it is very healthy and a sweet clear Air. The Spa- niards have Look-outs or Scouts on the Hills, and Breast-works in the Valleys, and most of their 64 Rich Trade of the Coast of Caraccos. 64 An. 1682 their Negro's are furnished with Arms also for de- fence of the Bays. The Dutch have a very profita- ble Trade here, almost to themselves: I have known 3 or 4 great Ships at a time on the Coast, each, it may be, of 30 or 40 Guns. They carry hither all forts of European Commodities, especially Linnen; making vast returns, chiefly in Silver and Cacao. And I have often wondred and regretted it, that none of my own Countrymen find the way thither directly from England; for our Jamaica-men Trade thither indeed, and find the sweet of it, though they carry English Commodities at second or third hand. While we lay on this Coast, we went ashore in some of the Bays, and took 7 or 8 Tun of Cacao; and after that 3 Barks, one laden with Hides, the second with European Commodities, the third with Earthen ware and Brandy. With these 3 Barks we went again to the Islands of Roca's, where we shar'd our Commodities, and separated, having Vessels enough to transport us all whither we thought most convenient. Twenty of us (for we were about 60) took one of the Vessels and our share of the goods, and went directly for Virginia. In our way thither we took several of the Sucking-fishes; for when we see them about the Ship we cast out a Line and Hook, and they will take it with any manner of Bait, whether Fish or Flesh. The Suck- ing-fish is about the bigness of a large Whiting, and much of the same shape towards the Tail, but the Head is flatter. From the Head to the middle of its Back there groweth a sort of flesh of a hard gristly substance, like that of the Limpit (a Shell-fish tapering up Pyramidically); which sticks to the Rocks; or like the head or mouth of a Shell-Snail, but harder. This excrescence is of a flat oval form, about 7 or 8 inches long, and 5 or 6 broad; and ri- sing about half an inch high. It is full of small ridges, 65 Of the Sucking-Fish, or Remora. 65 An. 1682 ridges, with which it will fasten it self to any thing that it meets with in the Sea, just as a Snail doth to a Wall. When any of them happen to come about a Ship they seldom leave her, for they will feed on such filth as is daily thrown overboard, or on meer excrements. When it is fair weather and but little wind, they will play about the Ship; but in bluft- ring weather, or when the Ship sails quick, they commonly fasten themselves to the Ships bottom, from whence neither the Ships motion, though ne- ver so swift, nor the most tempestuous Sea can re- move them. They will likewise fasten themselves to any other bigger Fish; for they never swim fast themselves, if they meet with any thing to carry them. I have found them sticking to a Shark, after it was hal'd in on the deck, though a Shark is so strong and boisterous a Fish, and throws about him so vehemently for half an hour together, it may be, when caught that did not the Sucking-fish stick at no ordinary rate, it must needs be cast off by so much violence. It is usual also to see them sticking to Turtle, to any old Trees, Planks, or the like, that lye driving at Sea. Any knobs or inqualities at a Ships bottom, are a great hinderance to the swiftness of its sailing; and 10 or 12 of these sticking to it must needs retard it, as much, in a manner, as if its bottom were foul. So that I am inclined to think that this Fish is the Remora of which the Antients tell such stories: if it be not, I know no other that is, and I leave the Reader to judge. I have seen of these Sucking- fishes in great plenty in the Bay of Campechy, and in all the Sea between that and the Coast of Caraccos, as about those Islands, particularly, I have lately de- scribed, Rocas, Blanco, Turtugas, &c. They have no scales, and are very good meat. We met nothing else worth remark, in our Voy- age to Virginia; where we arrived in July 1682. That Country is so well known to our Nation, that F I 66 The Author's Arrival in Virginia. 66 An. 1682 I shall say nothing of it, nor shall I detain the Rea- der with the story of my own affairs, and the trou- bles that befel me during about 13 months of my stay there; but in the next Chapter enter imme- diately upon my second Voyage into the South Seas, and round the Globe. CHAP.