[ch4 is page 67-92] 67 An. 1682 The Authore 2d Voyage to the South Seas C H A P. IV. The Author's Voyage to the Isle of John Fernan- do in the South Seas. He arrives at the Isles of Cape Verd. The Isle of Sal, its Salt-ponds. The Flamingo, and its remarkable Nest. Amber- griefe, where found: The Isles of St. Nicholas, Mayo, St. Jago, Fogo, a burning Mountain; with the rest of the Isles of Cape Verde. Sher- borough River, on the Coast of Guinea. The Commodities, and Negroes there; A Town of theirs, described. Tornadoes, Sharks, Flying fish; A Sea deep and clear, yet pale. Isles of Sipple de Ward. Small red Lobsters. Streight Le Mair. States Island. Cape Horn in Terra del Fuego. Their Meeting with Captain Eaton in the South Seas, and their going together to the Isle of John Fernando. Of a Moskito- man left there alone 3 Years: His Art and Sagacity; with that of other Indians: The Island described. The Savanahs of America. Goats at John Fernando's. Seals. Sea-lions. Snappers, a sort of Fish. Rock-fish. The Bays, and natural Strength of this Island. BEing now entering upon the Relation of a New Voyage, which makes up the main body of this Book, proceeding from Virginia by the way of Ter- ra del Fuego and the South Seas, the East Indies, and so on till my Return to England, by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, I shall give my Reader this short Account of my first entrance upon it. Among those who 68 An. 1682 The Authors 2d Voyage to the South Seas. accompanied Captain Sharp into the South Seas in our former expedition, and leaving him there re- turn d over Land, as is faid in the introduction, and in the 1st and 2d Chapters; there was one Mr. Cook, an English Native of St. Christophers, a Creole, as we call all born of European Parents in the West Indies. He was a sensible man, and had been some years a Privateer. At our joyning our selves with those Privateers we met at our coming again to the North Seas, his lot was to be with Captain Yanky, who kept Company for some considerable time with Captain Wright, in whose Ship I was, and part- ed with us at our 2d Anchoring at the Isle of Tor- tugas; as I have said in the last Chapter. After our parting, this Mr. Cook being Quarter-master un- der Captain Yanky, the second place in the Ship, according to the Law of Privateers, laid claim to a Ship they took from the Spaniards; and such of Captain Yanky's men as were so disposed, particu- larly all those who came with us over Land, went aboard this Prize Ship under the new Captain Cook. This distribution was made at the Isle of Vacca, or the Isle of Ash, as we call it; and here they parted also such Goods as they had taken. But Captain Cook having no Commission, as Captain Yanky, Captain Tristian, and some other French Commanders had, who lay then at that Island, and they grutching the English such a Vessel, they all joyn'd together, plun- dered the English of their Ship, Goods and Arms, and turned them ashore. Yet Captain Tristian took in about 8 or 10 of these English, and carry'd them with him to Petit-Guaures: of which number Cap- tain Cook was one, and Captain Davis another, who with the rest found means to feize the Ship as she lay at Anchor in the Road, Captain Tristian and many of his men being then ashore: and the English sending ashore such French-men as remained in the Ship and were mastered by them, though superior in number, stood 69 An. 1682 His Departure from Virginia. stood away with her immediately for the Isle of Vacca, before any notice of this surprize could reach the French Governor of that Isle; so deceiving him also by a Stratagem, they got on board the rest of their Countrymen, who had been left on that Island; and going thence they took a Ship newly come from France, laden with Wines. They took also a Ship of good force, in which they resolved to em- bark themselves, and make a new Expedition into the South Seas, to cruize on the Coast of Chili and Peru. But first they went for Virginia with their Prizes; where they arrived the April after my com- ing thither. The best of their Prizes carried 18 Guns: this they fitted up there with Sails, and eve- ry thing necessary for so long a Voyage; selling the Wines they had taken for such Provisions as they wanted. My self, and those of our Fellow- travellers over the Isthmus of America, who came with me to Virginia the year before this (most of which had since made a short Voyage to Carolina, and were again return'd to Virginia) resolved to join our selves to these new Adventurers: and as many more engaged in the same design as made our whole Crew consist of about 70 Men. So having furnished our selves with necessary materials, and agreed up- on some particular Rules, especially of Temperance and Sobriety, by reason of the length of our in- tended Voyage, we all went on board our Ship. August 23. 1682: we sailed from Achamack in Vir- ginia, under the Command of Captain Cook, bound for the South Seas. I shall not trouble the Reader with an account of every days run, but hasten to the less known parts of the World, to give a de- scription of them: only relating such memorable ac- cidents as hapned to us, and such places as we touch- ed at by the way. We met nothing worth observation till we came to the Islands of Cape Verd, except a terrible Storm, which 70 An. 1682 The Isles of Cape Verd. which could not escape it. This hapned in a few days after we left Virginia; with a St. E. Wind just in our Teeth. The Storm lasted above a week, it drencht us all like so many drownled Rats; and was one of the worst Storms I ever was in. One a mer- with in the East-Indies was more violent for the time; but of not above 24 hours continuance. Aft- ter that Storm we had favourable Winds and good weather; and in a short time we arriv d at the Island Sal, which is one of the Eastermost of the Cape Verd Islands. Of these there are ten in number so con- siderable as to bear distinct names, and they lye se- veral Degrees off from Cape Verd in Africk, whence they receive that Appellation, taking up about 5 deg. of Longitude in breadth, and about as many of Latitude in their length, viz. from 15 to 19 North. They are most inhabited by Portugese Ban- ditti. This of Sal is an Island lying in the Lat. of 16, in Long: 19 deg. 33 min. West from the Lizard in England, stretching from North to South, about 8 or 9 leagues; and not above a league and an half, or 2 leagues wide. It hath its name from the abun- dance of Salt that is naturally congealed there; the whole Island being full of large Salt-ponds. The Land is very barren, producing no Trees that I could see, but some small shrubby Bushes by the Sea side. Neither could I discern any Grass, yet there are some poor Goats on it. I know not whether there are any other Beasts on the Island. There are some wild Fowly but, I judge, not many. I saw a few Flamingo, which is a sort of large Fowl, much like a Heron in shape, but bigger, and of a reddish colour. They delight to keep together in great companies, and feed in Mud, or Ponds, or in such places where there is not much Water: They are very shy, therefore it is hard to shoot them. Yet I have lain obscured in the evening near a place where they resort, and 71 An. 1682 The Flamingo, and its Artificial Nest. with two more in my company have kill'd 4 of them at once; the first shot being made while they were standing on the ground, the other two as they rose. They build their Nests in shallow Ponds, where there is much Mud, which they scrape toge- ther, making little Hillocks, like small Islands, ap- pearing out of the Water, a foot and half high from the bottom. They make the foundation of these Hillocks broad, bringing them up tapering to the top, where they leave a small hollow pit to lay their Eggs in; and when they either lay their Eggs, or hatch them, they stand all the while, not on the Hillock, but close by it with their Legs on the ground and in the water, resting themselves against the Hillock, and covering the hollow Nest upon it with their Rumps: For their Legs are very long; and building thus, as they do, upon the ground, they could neither draw their Legs conveniently in- to their Nests, nor sit down upon them otherwise than by resting their whole bodies there, to the pre- judice of their Eggs or their young, were it not for this admirable contrivance which they have by na- tural instinct. They never lay more than two Eggs, and seldom fewer. The young ones cannot fly till they are almost full grown, but will run prodigiously fast; yet we have taken many of them. The Flesh of both young and old is lean and black, yet very good meat, tasting neither filthy, nor any way un- savory. Their Tongues are large, having a large knob of fat at the root, which is an excellent bit: a Dish of Flamingo's Tongues being fit for a Prince's Table. When many of them are standing together by a Ponds side, being half a mile distant from a Man, they appear to him like a Brick Wall; their Feathers being of the colour of new red Brick: and they commonly stand upright, and single, one by one, exactly in a row (except when feeding) and close 72 An. 1682 Isle of Sal. by each other. The young ones at first are of a light grey; and as their Wing-feathers spring out, they grow darker: and never come to their right colour, or any beautiful shape, under 10 or 11 months old. I have seen Flamingoes at Rio la Hacha, and at an Island lying near the Main of America, right against Querisao; called by Privateers Flamingo- Key, from the multitude of these Fowls that breed there; and I never saw of their Nests and young but there. There were not above 5 or 6 men on this Island of Sal, and a poor Governor as they call'd him, who came aboard in our Boat, and brought 3 or 4 poor lean Goats for a Present to our Captain, tell- ing him they were the best that the Island did afford. The Captain, minding more the poverty of the Giver than the value of the Present, gave him in requital a Coat to cloath him; for he had no- thing but a few Rags on his back, and an old Hat not worth 3 Farthings; which yet I believe he wore but seldom, for fear he should want before he might get another: for he told us there had not been a Ship in 3 years before. We bought of him about 20 Bushels of Salt for a few old Cloaths; and he begg'd a little Powder and Shot. We stay'd here 3 days; in which time one of these Portuguese offered to some of our men a lump of Ambergriefe in ex- change for some Cloaths, desiring them to keep it secret; for he said if the Governour should know it he should be hanged. At length one Mr. Coppinger bought it for a small matter; yet I believe he gave more than it was worth. We had not a Man in the Ship that knew Ambergriefe: but I have since seen it in other places, and therefore am certain it was not right. It was of a dark colour like Sheeps Dung, and very soft, but of no smell, and possibly 'twas some of their Goats Dung: I afterwards saw some fold at the Necquebars in the East Indies, which was of 73 An. 1682 Ambergrisewhere found. a lighter colour, but very hard, neither had it any smell; and this also, I suppose, was a Cheat. Yet it is certain that in both these places there is Amber- griefe found. I was told by one John Reed, a Bristol Man, that he was Prentice to a Master who traded to these Islands of Cape Verd, and once as he was riding at an Anchor at Fogo, another of these Islands, there was a lump of it swam by the Ship, and the Boat being ashore he mist it; but knew it to be Amber- griefe, having taken up a lump swimming in the like manner the Voyage before; and his Master hav- ing at several times bought pieces of it of the Na- tives of the Isle of Fogo, so as to enrich himself thereby. And so at the Necquebars, Englishmen have bought, as I have been credibly informed, great quantities of very good Ambergriefe. Yet the Inha- bitants are so subtle that they will counterfeit it, both there and here: and I have heard that in the Gulf of Florida, whence much of it comes, the Native Indians there use the same Fraud. Upon this occasion, I cannot omit to tell my Reader what I learnt from Mr. Hill, a Chyrur- geon, upon his shewing me once a piece of Amber- griefe, which was thus. One Mr. Benjamin Barker, a man that I have been long well acquainted with, and know him to be a very diligent and observing person, and likewise very sober and credible, told this Mr. Hill, that being in the Bay of Honduras to procure Logwood, which grows there in great a- bundance; and passing in a Canoa over to one of the Islands in that Bay, he found upon the shore, on a sandy Bay there, a lump of Ambergriefe, so large, that when carried to Jamaica, he found it to weigh one hundred pound and upwards. When he first found it, it lay dry, above the mark which the Sea then came to at High-water; and he observed in it a great multitude of Beetles: It was of a dusky co- lour, 74 An. 1682 Isle of St. Nicholas. lour, towards black, and about the hardness of mel- low Cheese, and of a very fragrant smell. This that Mr. Hill shewed me, being some of it, which Mr. Barker gave him. Besides those already mentioned, all the places where I have heard that Ambergriefe hath been found, are Bermudas, and the Babama Is- lands in the West Indies; and that part of the Coast of Africk, with its adjacent Islands, which reaches from Mozambique to the Red-Sea. We went from this Island of Sal, to St. Nicholas, another of the Cape-Verd Islands, lying West South West from Sal, about 22 leagues. We arrived there the next day after we left the other; and An- chored on the S. E. side of the Island. This is a pretty large Island; it is one of the biggest of all the Cape-Verds, and lyeth in a triangular form. The largest side which lyeth to the East, is about 20 leagues long, and the other two above 20 leagues each. It is a mountainous, barren Island, and rocky all round towards the Sea; yet in the heart of it, there are Valleys where the Portugues, which inha- bit here, have Vineyards and Plantations, and Wood for fewel. Here are many Goats, which are but poor in comparison with those in other places; yet much better than those at Sall: There are likewise many Asses. The Governour of this Island came aboard us, with 3 or 4 Gentlemen more in his Com- pany, who were all indifferently well cloathed, and accoutred with Swords and Pistols; but the rest that accompanied him to the Sea side, which were about 20 or 30 men more, were but in a ragged garb. The Governour brought aboard some Wine made in the Island, which tasted much like Madera Wine: It was of a pale colour, and lookt thick. He told us the chief Town was in a Valley 14 mile from the Bay, where we rode; that he had there under him above one hundred families, besides other Inhabitants that lived scattering in Valleys more re- mote. 75 An. 1682 Isle of Mayo. mote. They were all very swarthy, if the Governour was the clearest of them; yet of a dark tawny com- plexion. At this Island we scrubb'd the bottom of our Ship; and here also we dug wells ashore on the Bay, and fill'd all our water; and after 4 or 6 days stay, we went from hence to Mayo, another of the Cape-Verd Islands, lying about 20 miles East and by South from the other; arriving there the next day, and anchoring on the N. W. side of the Island. We sent our Boat ashore, intending to have purchased some Provisions, as Beef or Goats, with which this Island is better stocked than the rest of the Islands. But the inhabitants would not suffer us to come on land; for about a week before our arrival there came an English Ship; the men of which came ashore, pre- tending friendship, and seised on the Governour with some others, and carrying them aboard, made them send ashore for Cattle to ransom their Liber- ties: and yet after this set sail, and carry'd them away; and they had not heard of them since. The English-man that did this (as I was afterwards in- formed) was one Captain Bond of Bristol. Whether ever he brought back those men again I know not: He himself and most of his men have since gone over to the Spaniards: and 'twas he who had like to have burnt our Ship after this in the Bay of Panama, as I shall have occasion to relate. This Isle of Mayo is but small, and environed with sholes; yet a place much frequented by shipping for its great plenty of Salt: and though there is but bad landing, yet many Ships lade here every year. Here are plenty of Bulls, Cows, and Goats; and at a certain season in the year, as May, June, July, and August, a sort of small Sea-Tortoise come hither to lay their Eggs: but these Turtle are not so sweet as those in the West Indies. The Inhabitants plant Corn, Yams, Potatoes, and some Plantations, and breed a few 76 An. 1682 Isle of St. Jago. a few Fowls; living very poor, yet much better than the Inhabitants of any other of these Islands, St. Jago excepted, which lieth 4 or 5 leagues to the Westward of Mayo, and is the chief, the most fruit- ful, and best inhabited, of all the Islands of Cape Verd; yet mountainous, and much barren Land in it. On the East side of the Isle of St. Jago is a good Port, which in peaceable times especially is seldom without Ships; for this hath long been a place which Ships have been wont to touch at for Water and Refreshments, as those outward bound to the East Indies, English, French, and Dutch; many of the Ships bound to the Coast of Guinea, the Dutch to Surinam, and their own Portugese Fleet going for Brazil, which is generally about the latter end of September: but few Ships call in here in their return for Europ. When any Ships are here the Country People bring down their Commodities to sell to the Seamen and Passengers, viz. Bullocks, Hogs, Goats, Fowls, Eggs, Plantains, and Cocoa Nuts; which they will give in Exchange for Shirts, Drawers, Handker- chiefs, Hats, Wastecoats, Britches, or in a manner for any sort of Cloath, especially Linnen, for Woollen is not much esteemed there. They care not willingly to part with their Cattel of any sort but in exchange for Money, or Linnen, or some other valuable Commodity. Travellers must have a care of these people, for they are very thievish; and if they see an opportunity, will snatch any thing from you, and run away with it. We did not touch at this Island in this Voyage; but I was there before this in the year 1670, when I saw a Fort here lying on the top of an Hill, and commanding the Harbour. The Governour of this Island is chief over all the rest of the Islands. I have been told that there are two large Towns on this Island, some small Villages, and 77 An.1683 The other Isles of Cape Verd. and a great many Inhabitants ; and that they make a great deal of Wine, fuch as is that of St. Nicholas. I have not been on any other of the Cape Verd Ilands, nor near them ; but have feen moft of them at a diftance. They feem to be mountainous and barren ; fome of thefe before-mentioned being the moft fruitful and moft frequented by Strangers, efpecially St. Jago and Mayo. As to the reft of them, Fogo and Brava are two fmall Ilands lying to the Weftward of St. Jago, but of little note ; only Fogo is remarkable for its being a Vulcano : It is all of it one large Mountain of a good heighth, out of the top whereof iffue Flames of Fire, yet only difcerned in the night: and then it may be feen a great way at Sea. Yet this Ifland is not without Inhabitants, who live at the foot of the Mountain near the Sea. Their fubfiftence is much the fame as in the other Ilands ; they having fome Goats, Fowls, Plantains, Coco-Nuts, &c. as I am informed. Of the Plan- tains and Coco-Nuts I fhall have occafion to fpeak when I come into the Eaft Indies: and fhall defer the giving an account of them till then. The remainder of thefe Iflands of Cape Verd, are St. Antonio, Sta. Lucia, St. Vincente, and Bona-Vifta: of which I know nothing confiderable. Our entrance among thefe Iflands was from the North Eaft ; for in our paffage from Virginia we ran pretty far toward the Coaft of Gualata in Africk, to preferve the Trade-wind, left we fhould be born off too much to the Weftward, and fo lofe the Ilands. We anchored at the South of Sall, and paffing by the South of St. Nicholas anchored again at Mayo, as hath been faid ; where we made the fhorter ftay, becaufe we could get no Flefh among the Inhabitants, by reafon of the regret they had at their Governour and his Mens being carried away by Captain Bond. So leaving the Ifles of Cape Verd we ftood away to the Southward with the Wind at E. N. E. intending to have 78 An.1683 River of Sherbora in Guinea. have touched no more till we came to the Streights of Magellan, But when we came into the lat. of 19 deg. North, we met the Winds at S. by W. and S.S.W. therefore we altered our refolutions, and fteered away for the Coaft of Guinea, and in few days came to the Mouth of the River of Sherbora, which is an Englifh Factory, lying South of Sierra Liona. We had one of our Men who was well ac- quainted there ; and by his direction we went in among the Shoals, and came to an anchor. Sherboro was a good way from us, fo I can give no account of the place, or our Factory there ; fave that I have been informed, that there is a confiderable Trade driven there for a fort of Red Wood for Dying, which grows in that Country very plentifully ; 'tis called by our people Cam-wood. A little within the fhore where we anchored was a Town of Negroes, Natives of this Coaft. It was skreen'd from our fight by a large Grove of Trees that grew between them and the fhore: but we went thither to them feveral times during the 3 or 4 days of our ftay here, to re- frefh our felves ; and they came as often came aboard us, bringing with them Plantains, Sugar-canes, Palm- wines, Rice, Fowls and Honey, which they fold us. They were no way fhy of us, being well ac- quainted with the Englifh, by reafon of our Guinea- Factories and Trade. This Town feem'd pretty large ; the Houfes but low and ordinary ; but one great Houfe in the midft of it, where their chief men meet and receive Strangers : and here they treated us with Palm-wine. As to their Perfons, they are like other Negroes. While we lay here we fcrubb'd the bottom of our Ship, and then fill'd all our Water-Casks ; and buying up two Punche- ons of Rice for our Voyage, we departed from hence about the middle of November 1683, profe- cuting our intended courfe towards the Straits of Magellan. 79 An.1683 Tornadoes, or Thunder-fhowers. We had but little wind after we got out, and ve- ry hot weather with fome fierce Tornadoe's, common- ly rifing out of the N. E. which brought Thunder, Lightening and Rain. Thefe did not laft long ; fometimes not a quarter of an hour; and then the wind would fhuffle about to the Southward again, and fall flat calm, for thefe Tornadoe's commonly come againft the wind that is then blowing, as our Thunder-Clouds are often obferved to do in En- gland ; but the Tornadoe's I fhall defcribe more large- ly in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix to this Book. At this time many of our men were taken with Feavers; yet we loft but one. While we lay in the calms we caught feveral great Sharks; fome- times 2 or 3 in a day, and eat them all, boyling and fqueezing them dry, and then ftewing them with Vinegar, Pepper, &c. for we had but little flefh a- board. We took the benefit of every Tornado, which came fometimes 3 or 4 in a day, and carried what Sail we could to get to the Southward, for we had but little wind when they were over ; and thofe fmall winds between the Tornadoe's were much a- gainft us, at S. by E. and S. S. E. till we paft the Equinoctial Line, which we croft about a degree to the Eaftward of the Meridian of the Ifle of St. Jago, off the Cape-Verd Iflands. At firft we could fcarce lye S. W. but being got a degree to the Southward of the Line, the wind veer'd more Eafterly, and then we ftemm'd S. W. by S. and as we got farther to the Southward, fo the wind came about to the Eaftward and frefhen- ed upon us. In the Lat. of 3 S. we had the wind at E. in the Lat. of 5, we had it at E. S. E. where it ftood a confiderable time, and blew a frefh top gallant gale. We then made the beft ufe of it; fteering on briskly with all the Sail we could make ; and this wind by the 18 of Jan. carried us into the Lat. of 36 South. In all this time we met with nothing 80 An.1683 Ifles of Sibbel de Wards. nothing worthy remark ; not fo much as a Fifh, ex- cept Flying Fifh, which have been fo often defcrib- ed, that I think it needlefs for me to do it. Here we found the Sea much changed from its natural greennefs, to a white, or palifh colour, which caufed us to found, fuppofing we might ftrike ground: For when ever we find the colour of the Sea to change, we know we are not far from Land, or fhoals which ftretch out into the Sea, running from fome Land. But here we found no ground with 100 fathom Line. I was this day at noon by reckoning, 48 d. 50 m. Weft from the Lizard, the variation by our morning amplitude 15 d. 50 m. Eaft, the variation increafing. The 20 day one of our Chyrurgeons dyed much lament- ed, becaufe we had but one more for fuch a dan- gerous Voyage. January 28th we made the Sibbel de Wards, which are 3 Iflands lying in the lat. of 51 d. 25 m. South, and longitude Weft from the Lizard in England, by my account, 57 d. 28 m. the variation here we found to be 23 d. 10 m. I had for a month before we came hither, endeavoured to perfwade Captain Cook and his Company to anchor at thefe Iflands, where I told them we might probably get water, as I then thought, and in cafe we fhould mifs of it here, yet by being good Husbands of what we had, we might reach John Fernando's in the South Seas, be- fore our water was fpent. This I urged to hinder their defigns of going through the Straits of Ma- gellan, which I knew would prove very dangerous to us, the rather, becaufe our men being Privateers, and fo more wilful and lefs under command, would not be fo ready to give a watchful attendance in a paffage fo little known. For altho thefe men were more under command, than I had ever feen any Privateers, yet I could not expect to find them at a minutes call, in coming to an anchor, or weigh- ing 81 An.1683 A fort of fmall Lobfters. ing Anchor : befide, if ever we fhould have occa- fion to moor, or caft out two Anchors, we had not a Boat to carry out or weigh an Anchor. Thefe Iflands of Sible de Wards were fo named by the Dutch. They are all three rocky barren Iflands with- out any Tree, only fome Dildo-bufhes growing on them : and I do believe there is no Water on any one of them, for there was no appearance of any Water. The two Northernmoft we could not come near, but the Southermoft we came clofe by, but could not ftrike ground till within two Cables length of the fhore, and there found it to be foul rocky ground. From the time that we were in 10 degrees South, till we came to thefe Iflands, we had the Wind be- tween E. N. E. and the N. N. E. fair weather, and a brisk gale. The day that we made thefe Iflands we faw great fholes of fmall Lobfters, which co- loured the Sea Red in fpots for a mile in compafs, and we drew fome of them out of the Sea in our Water-Buckets. They were no bigger than the top of a Mans little finger, yet all their Claws both great and fmall like a Lobfter. I never faw any of this fort of Fifh naturally red but here ; for ours on the Englifh Coaft, which are black naturally, are not red till they are boil'd : neither did I ever any where elfe meet with any Fifh of the Lobfter fhape fo fmall as thefe; unlefs, it may be, Shrimps, or Prawns. Captain Swan and Captain Eaton met alfo with fhoals of this Fifh in much the same Latitude and Longi- tude. Leaving therefore the Sible de Ward Iflands, as having neither good Anchorage nor Water, we failed on, directing our courfe for the Streights of Magellan. But the Winds hanging in the wefter- bord, and blowing hard, oft put us by our Topfails ; fo that we could not fetch it. The 6th day of Fe- bruary we fell in with the Streights Le Mair, which 82 An.1683 Streight Le Mair. States Ifland. is very high Land on both fides, and the Streights very narrow. We had the Wind at N. N. W. a frefh gale ; and feeing the opening of the Streights, we ran in with it, till within four mile of the mouth, and then it fell calm, and we found a ftrong tide fetting out of the Streights to the Northward, and like to founder our Ship ; but whether flood or ebb I know not ; only it made fuch a fhort cockling Sea as if we had been in a race, or place where two tides meet: For it ran every way, sometimes break- ing in over our Wafte, fometimes over our Poop, fometimes over our Bow, and the Ship toffed like an Egg-fhell, fo that I never felt fuch uncertain jerks in a Ship. At 8 a clock in the evening we had a fmall Breez at W. N. W. and fteered away to the Eaftward, intending to go round the States Ifland, the Eaft end of which we reached the next day by noon, having a frefh breez all night. The 7th day at noon being off the Eaft End of States Ifland I had a good obfervation of the Sun, and found my felf in lat. 54 deg. 52 min. South. At the Eaft end of States Ifland are three fmall Iflands, or rather Rocks, pretty high, and white with the Dung of Fowls. Wherehaving ob- ferved the Sun we haled up South, defigning to pafs round to the Southward of Cape Horn, which is the Southermoft Land of Terra del Fuego. The Winds hung in the weftern quarter betwixt the N. W. and the Weft, fo that we could not get much to the Weftward, and we never faw Terra del Fuego af- ter that evening that we made the Streight Le Mair. I have heard that there have been Smokes and Fires on Terra del Fuego, not on the tops of Hills, but in Plains and Valleys, feen by thofe who have failed through the Streights of Magellan; fuppofed to be made by the Natives. We did not fee the Sun at rifing or fetting, in or- der to take an amplitude after we left the Sibble de Wards, 83 An.1684 They meet Captain Eaton in the S. Seas. Wards, till we got into the South Seas: therefore I know not whether the variation increafed any more or no. Indeed I had an obfervation of the Sun at noon, in lat. 59 deg. 30 min. and we were then ftanding to the Southward, with the Wind at W. by N. and that night the Wind came about more to the Southward of the Weft, and we tackt. I was then in lat. 60 by reckoning, which was the fartheft South latitude that ever I was in. The 14th day of February, being in lat. 57. and to the Weft of Cape Horne, we had a violent Storm, which held us till the third day of March, blowing commonly at S. W. and S. W. by W. and W. S. W. thick weather all the time, with fmall drizzling Rain, but not hard. We made a shift however to fave 23 Barrels of Rain-water, befides what we dreft our Victuals withal. March the third the Wind fhifted at once, and came about at South, blowing a fierce gale of Wind: foon after it came about to the Eaftward, and we ftood into the South Seas. The 9th day having an obfervation of the Sun, not having feen it of late, we found our felves in lat. 47 d. 10 m. and the variation to be but 15 d. 30 m. Eaft. The Wind ftood at S. E. we had fair weather and a moderate gale ; and the 17th day we were in lat. 36 by obfervation, and then found the variation to be but 8 degrees Eaft. The 19th day when we looked out in the morn- ing we faw a Ship to the Southward of us, coming with all the Sail fhe could make after us: we lay muzled to let her come up with us, for we fuppofed her to be a Spanifh Ship come from Baldivia bound to Lima: we being now to the Northward of Baldivia, and this being the time of the year when Ships that trade thence to Baldivia return home. They had the fame opinion of us, and therefore made fure to take 84 An.1683 They arrive at the Ifle of John Fernando. take us, but coming nearer we both found our mi- ftakes. This proved to be one Captain Eaton in a Ship fent purpofely from London for the South Seas: We hailed each other, and the Captain came on board, and told us of his actions on the Coaft of Brazil, and in the River of Plate. He met Captain Swan (one that came from En- gland to trade here) at the Eaft Entrance into the Streights of Magellan, and they accompanied each other through the Streights, and were feparated af- ter they were through by the Storm before menti- oned. Both we and Captain Eaton being bound for John Fernando's Ifle, we kept company, and we fpared him Bread and Beef, and he fpared us Water, which he took in as he paffed through the Streights. March the 22d, 1684. we came in fight of the Ifland, and the next day got in and anchored in a Bay at the South end of the Ifland, in 25 fathom water, not two Cables lengths from the fhore. We prefently got out our Canoa, and went afhore to fee for a Moskito Indian, whom we left here when we were chaced hence by three Spanifh Ships in the year 1681. a little before we went to Arica ; Captain Watlin being then our Commander, after Captain Sharp was turned out. This Indian lived here alone above 3 years, and altho he was feveral times fought after by the Spa- niards, who knew he was left on the Ifland, yet they could never find him. He was in the Woods hunting for Goats, when Captain Watlin drew off his men, and the Ship was under fail before he came back to fhore. He had with him his Gun and a Knife, with a fmall Horn of Powder, and a few Shot ; which being fpent, he contrived a way by notching his Knife, to faw the barrel of his Gun into fmall pieces, wherewith he made Harpoons, Lances, Hooks, and a long Knife; heating the pie- ces firft in the fire, which he ftruck with his Gun- flint, 85 An.1683 A Moskito Indian left here. flint, and a piece of the barrel of his Gun, which he hardened ; having learnt to do that among the Englifh. The hot pieces of Iron he would hammer out and bend as he pleafed with Stones, and faw them with his jagged Knife, or grind them to an edge by long labour, and harden them to a good temper, as there was occafion. All this may feem ftrange to thofe that are not acquainted with the fagacity of the Indians ; but it is no more than thefe Moskito men are accuftomed to in their own Coun- try, where they make their own Fifhing and Strik- ing Inftruments, without either Forge or Anvil ; tho they fpend a great deal of time about them. Other Wild Indians who have not the ufe of Iron, which the Moskito men have from the Englifh, make Hatchets of a very hard ftone, with which they will cut down Trees, (the Cotton Tree efpecially, which is a foft tender Wood) to build their Houfes or make Canoas ; and though in working their Ca- noas hollow, they cannot dig them fo neat and thin, yet they will make them fit for their fervice. This their digging or hatchet-work they help out by fire ; whether for the felling of the Trees, or for the making the infide of their Canoa hollow. Thefe contrivances are ufed particularly by the Savage In- dians of Blewfields River, defcribed in the 3d Chap- ter, whofe Canoas and Stone-hatchets I have feen. Thefe Stone-hatchets are about 10 inches long, 4 broad, and 3 inches thick in the middle. They are grownd away flat and fharp at both ends: right in the midft, and clear round it they make a notch, fo wide and deep that a man might place his Fin- ger along it, and taking a ftick or withe about 4 foot long, they bind it round the Hatchet-head, in that notch, and fo twifting it hard, ufe it as an handle or helve ; the head being held by it very faft. Nor are other Wild Indians lefs ingenious. Thofe of Patagonia, particularly, head their Arrows with 86 An.1683 His Reception of us. with Flint, cut or grownd ; which I have feen and admired. But to return to our Moskito man on the Ifle of John Fernando. With fuch Inftruments as he made in that manner, he got fuch Provifion as the Ifland afforded ; either Goats or Fifh. He told us that at firft he was forced to eat Seal, which is ve- ry ordinary meat, before he had made Hooks : but afterwards he never kill'd any Seals but to make lines, cutting their skins into thongs. He had a little Houfe or Hut half a mile from the Sea, which was lined with Goats skin ; his Couch or Barbecu of fticks lying along about 2 foot diftant from the ground, was fpread with the fame, and was all his Bedding. He had no Cloaths left, having worn out thofe he brought from Watlin's Ship, but only a Skin about his Wafte. He faw our Ship the day before we came to an Anchor, and did believe we were Englifh, and therefore kill'd 3 Goats in the morning, before we came to an anchor, and dreft them with Cabbage, to treat us when we came a- fhore. He came then to the Sea fide to congratulate our fafe arrival. And when we landed, a Moskito Indian named Robin, firft leapt afhore, and running to his brother Moskito man, threw himfelf flat on his face at his feet; who helping him up and em- bracing him, fell flat with his face on the ground at Robins feet, and was by him taken up alfo. We ftood with pleafure to behold the furprize and ten- dernefs, and folemnity of this interview, which was exceedingly affectionate on both fides ; and when their ceremonies of civility were over, we alfo that ftood gazing at them drew near, each of us embracing him we had found here, who was over- joyed to fee fo many of his old friends come hither, as he thought, purpofely to fetch him. He was named Will, as the other was Robin. Thefe were names given them by the Englifh, for they have no names among themfelves ; and they take it as a great favour to be named 87 An. 1683 The Isle of John Fernando describ'd. named by any of us ; and will complain for want of it, if we do not appoint them some name when they are with us : saying of themselves they are poor Men, and have no name. This Island is in lat. $34 \text{ d. } 15 \text{ m.}$ and about $120$ leagues from the Main. It is about $12$ leagues round, full of high Hills, and small pleasant Valleys; which if manured, would probably produce any thing proper for the Climate. The sides of the Moun- tains are part Savanahs, part Wood-land. Savanahs are clear pieces of Land without Woods; not be- cause more barren than the Wood-land, for they are frequently spots of as good Land as any, and often are intermixt with Wood-land. In the Bay of Campeachy are very large Savanahs, which I have seen full of Cattle : but about the River of Plate are the largest that ever I heard of, $50$, $60$, or $100$ miles in length ; and Jamaica, Cuba, and Hispaniola, have many Savanahs intermixt with Woods. Places cleared of Wood by Art and Labour do not go by this name, but those only which are found so in the uninhabited parts of America, such as this Isle of John Fernandoes ; or which were originally clear in other parts. The Grass in these Savanahs at John Fernando's is not a long flaggy Grass, such as usually in the Sa- vanahs in the West-Indies, but a sort of kindly Grass, both thick and flourishing the biggest part of the year. The Woods afford divers sorts of Trees; some large and good Timber for Building, but none fit for Masts. The Cabbage Trees of this Isle are but small and low ; yet afford a good head, and the Cabbage very sweet. This Tree I shall describe in the Appendix, in the Bay of Campeachy. The Savanahs are stocked with Goats in great Herds : but those that live on the East end of the Island are not so fat as those on the West end ; for though there is much more Grass, and plenty of Water 88 An. 1683 Goats at J. Fernando's. Water in every Valley, nevertheless they thrive not so well here as on the West end, where there is less food ; and yet there are found greater Flocks, and those too fatter and sweeter. That Westend of the Island is all high Champi- on ground without any Vally, and but one place to land ; there is neither Wood, nor any fresh Water, and the Grass short and dry. Goats were first put on the Island by John Fer- nando, who first discovered it in his Voyage from Lima to Baldivia : (and discovered also another Island about the same bigness, $20$ leagues to the Westward of this.) From those Goats these were propogated, and the Island hath taken its name, from this its first Discoverer, who when he returned to Lima, de- sired a Patent for it, designing to settle here ; and it was in his second Voyage hither that he fet ashore $3$ or $4$ Goats; which have since by their increase, so well stocked the whole Island. But he could never get a Patent for it, therefore it lies still de- stitute of Inhabitants, though doubtless capable of maintaining $4$ or $500$ Families, by what may be produced off the Land only. I speak much within compass ; for the Savanahs would at present feed $1000$ head of Cattle besides Goats, and the Land being cultivated would probably bear Corn, or Wheat, and good Pease, Yams, or Potatoes ; for the Land in their Valleys and sides of the Mountains is of a good black fruitful mould. The Sea about it is likewise very productive of its Inhabitants. Seals swarm as thick about this Island, as if they had no other place in the World to live in; for there is not a Bay nor Rock that one can get a- shore on, but is full of them. Sea Lions are here in great Companys, and Fish, particularly Snappers and Rock-fish, are so plentiful, that a such in-dan hours time will take with Hook and Line, as many as will serve five men. The 89 An. 1683 Seals. The Seals are a sort of Creatures pretty well known, yet it may not be amiss to describe them. They are as big as Calves, the head of them like a Dog, therefore call'd by the Dutch the Sea-hounds. Under each Shoulder grows a long thick Fin: These serve them to swim with when in the Sea, and are instead of Legs to them when on the Land for raising their Bodies up on end, by the help of these Fins or Stumps, and so having their Tail-parts drawn close under them, they rebound as it were and throw their bodies forward, drawing their hinder- parts after them ; and then again rising up, and springing forward with their fore-parts, alternately, they lie tumbling thus up and down, all the while they are moving on Land. From their Shoulders to their Tails they grow tapering like Fish, and have two small Fins on each side the Rump; which is commonly covered with their Fins. These Fins serve instead of a Tail in the Sea ; and on Land they fit on them, when they give suck to their young. Their hair is of divers colours, as black, grey, dun, spotted ; looking very sleek and pleasant when they come first out of the Sea: For these at John Fernan- do's have fine thick short Furr; the like I have not taken notice of any where but in these Seas. Here are always thousands, I might say possibly millions of them, either fitting on the Bays, or going and coming in the Sea round the Island ; which is co- vered with them (as they lye at the top of the Wa- ter playing and sunning themselves) for a mile or two from the Shore. When they come out of the Sea they bleat like Sheep for their young ; and tho' they pass through hundreds of others young ones, before they come to their own, yet they will not suffer any of them to suck. The young ones are like Puppies, and lie much ashore ; but when beaten by any of us, they, as well as the old ones, will make toward the Sea, and swim very swift and 90 An. 1683 The Sea Lion. and nimble ; tho' on shore they lye very sluggishly, and will not go out of our ways unless we beat them, but snap at us. A blow on the Nose soon kills them. Large Ships might here load themselves with Seals skins, and Trane-oyl ; for they are extra- ordinary fat. Seals are found as well in cold as hot Climates ; and in the cold places they love to get on Lumps of Ice, where they will lie and sun them- selves, as here on the Land: They are frequent in the Northern parts of Europe and America, and in the Southern parts of Africa, as about the Cape of Good Hope, and at the Streights of Magellan. and though I never saw any in the West Indies, but in the Bay of Campeachy, at certain Islands called the Alceranes, and at others called the Desartes; yet they are over all the American Coast of the South Seas, from Terra del Fuego, up to the Equinoctial Line: but to the North of the Equinox again, in these Seas, I never saw any, till as far as $21$ North Lat. Nor did I ever see any in the East Indies. In general they seem to re- sort where there is plenty of Fish, for that is their food: and Fish, such as they feed on, as Cods, Groopers, &c. are most plentiful on rocky Coasts : and such is mostly this Western Coast of the South America ; as I shall further relate. The Sea Lion is a large creature about $12$ or $14$ foot long. The biggest part of his body is as big as a Bull: it is shaped like a Seal, but $6$ times as big. The Head is like a Lion's Head; it hath a broad Face with many long Hairs growing about its Lips like a Cat. It has a great goggle Eye, the Teeth $3$ inches long, about the bigness of a Mans Thumb. In Capt. Sharp's time some of our Men madeDice with them. They have no Hair on their Bodies like the Seal, they are of a dun colour, and are all extrapr- dinary fat; one of them being cut up and boil'd will yeild a Hogshed of Oil, which is very sweet and wholesome to fry Meat withal. The lean Flesh is 91 An. 1683 Snapper Fish and Rock Fish. is black, and of a course grain, yet indifferent good food. They will lye a week at a time ashore if not disturbed. Where $3$, or $4$, or more of them come ashore together, they huddle one on another like Swine, and grunt like them, making a hideous noise. They eat Fish; which I believe is their com- mon food. The Snapper is a Fish made much like a Roach, but a great deal bigger. It hath a large Head and Mouth, and great Gills. The Back is of a bright Red, the Belly of a Silver-colour: The Scales are as broad as a Shilling. The Snapper is excellent meat. They are in many places in the West-Indies, and the South-Seas: I have not seen them any where beside. The Rock-fish is called by Sea-men a Grooper: the Spaniards call it a Baccalao, which is the name for Cod ; because it is much like it. It is rounder than the Snapper, of a dark brown colour ; and hath small Scales no bigger than a Silver-penny. This Fish is good sweet meat, and is found in great plen- ty on all the Coast of Peru and Chili. There are only two Bays in the whole Island where Ships may Anchor; these are both at the East end, and in both of them is a Rivolet of good fresh Water. Either of these Bays may be fortified with little charge, to that degree, that $50$ men in each may be able to keep off $1000$; and there is no coming into these Bays from the West end, but with great difficulty, over the Mountains, where if $3$ men are placed, they may keep down as many as come against them on any side. This was partly ex- perienced by $5$ Englishmen that Captain Davis left here, who defended themselves against a great bo- dy of Spaniards who landed in the Bays, and came here to destroy them; and though the second time one of their Consorts deserted and fled to the Spa- niards, yet the other $4$ kept their ground, and were afterward taken in from hence by Captain Strong of London. We 92 An. 1683 The Management of their Sick. We remained at John Fernando's $16$ days ; our sick men were ashore all the time, and one of Captain Eaton's Doctors, (for he had $4$ in his Ship) tending and feeding them with Goat, and several Herbs, whereof here is plenty growing in the Brooks ; and their Diseases were chiefly Scorbutick. CHAP.