[ch7 is page 161-209] 161 An.1684 CHAP. VII. They leave the Isle of Plata. Cape Passao. The Coast between that and Cape St. Francisco; and from thence on to Panama. The River of St. Jago. The Red and the White Cotton-tree. The Cabbage-tree. The Indians of St. Jago River, and its Neighbourhood. The Isle of Gallo. The River and Village of Tomaco. Isle of Gorgona. The Pearl-Oysters there and in other parts. The Land on the Main. Cape Corrientes. Point Garachina. Island Gal- lera. The Kings, or Pearl-Islands; Pacheque. St. Paul's Island. Lavelia. Nata. The Clam- fish. Oysters. The pleasant Prospects in the Bay of Panama. Old Panama. The New City. The great Concourse there from Lima and Por- tobel, &c. upon the Arrival of the Spanish Armada in the West Indies. The Course the Armada takes : with an incidental Account of the first Inducements that made the Privateers undertake the passage over the Isthmus of Da- rien into the South Seas, and of the particular beginning of their Correspondence with the Indi- ans that inhabit that Isthmus. Of the Air and Weather at Panama. The Isles of Perico. Ta- bago a pleasant Island. The Mammee tree. The Village Tabago. A Spanish Stratagem or two, of Capt. Bond their Engineer. The Ignorance of the Spaniards of these parts in Sea Affairs. A Party of French Privateers arrive from over Land. Of the Commissions that are given M on [+++---] 162 An.1684 Cape Passao. out by the French Governour of Petit-Guavres. Of the Gulf of St. Michael, and the Rivers of Congos, Sambo, and Sta Maria; and an Error of the common Maps, in the placing Point Garachina and Cape St. Lorenzo, corrected. Of the Town and Gold Mines of Sta Maria; and the Town of Scuchadero. Capt. Town- ley's Arrival with some more English Priva- teers over Land. Jars of Pilco wine. A Bark of Capt. Knight's joins them. Point Garachina again. Porto de Pinas. Isle of Otoque. The Pacquet from Lima taken. Other English and French Privateers arrive. Chepelio, one of the sweetest Islands in the World. The Sapadillo, Avo- gato pear, Mammee Sappota, Wild Mammee. and Star-apple. Cheapo River and Town. Some Traversings in the Bay of Panama; and an ac- count of the Strength of the Spanish Fleet, and of the Privateers, and the Engagement between them. [---+++] THE 23d day of December 1684, we failed from the Island Plata towards the Bay of Panama. The Wind at S. S. E. a fine brisk gale, and fair wea- ther. The next morning we past by Cape Passao. This Cape is in lat 00 d. 08 m. South of the Equa- tor. It runs out into the Sea with a high round point, which seems to be divided in the midst. It is bald against the Sea, but within land, and on both sides, it is full of short Trees. The Land in the Country is very high and mountainous, and it ap- pears to be very woody. Between Cape Passao and Cape Saint Francisco, the Land by the Sea is full of small Points, making as many little Sandy Bays between them; and is of an indifferent heighth, cover'd [+++---] 163 An.1684 Spanish Pilots. cover'd with Trees of divers sorts: So that failing by this Coast you see nothing but a vast Grove or Wood; which is so much the more pleasant, be- cause the Trees are of several forms, both in respect to their growth and colour. [---+++] Our design was, as I said in my last Chapter, to search for Canoas in some River where the Spaniards have neither Settlement nor Trade with the native Indians. We had Spanish Pilots, and Indians bred un- der the Spaniards, who were able to carry us into any Harbour or River belonging to the Spaniards, but were wholly unacquainted with those Rivers which are not frequented by the Spaniards. There are many such unfrequented Rivers between Plata and Panama; indeed all the way from the Line to the Gulf of St. Michaels, or even to Panama it- self, the Coast is not inhabited by any Spaniards, nor are the Indians that inhabit there any way un- der their subjection : except only near the Isle Gal- lo, where on the banks of a Gold River or two there are some Spaniards who work there to find Gold. [---+++] Now our Pilots being at a loss on these less fre- quented Coasts, we supply'd that defect out of the Spanish Pilot books, which we took in their Ships: These we found by experience to be very good Guides. Yet nevertheless the Country in many places by the Sea being low, and full of openings, Creeks and Rivers, it is somewhat difficult to find any particular River that a man designs to go to, where he is not well acquainted. [---+++] This however could be no discouragement to us ; for one River might probably be as well furnished with Indian Canoas as another; and if we found them, it was to us indifferent where; yet we pitcht on the River Saint Jago, not because there were not other Rivers as large and as likely to be inhabited with Indians as it; but because that River was not far from Gallo, an Island where our Ships could an- chor [+++---] 164 An.1684 River of St. Jago. chor safely and ride securely. We past by Cape St. Francisco meeting with great and continued Rains. The Land by the Sea, to the North of the Cape, is low and extraordinary woody; the Trees are very thick, and seem to be of a prodigious height and bigness. From Cape Saint Francisco the Land runs more Easterly into the Bay of Panama. I take this Cape to be its bounds on the South side, and the Isles of Cobaya or Quiboto bound it on the North side. Between this Cape and the Isle Gallo there are many large and navigable Rivers. We passed by them all till we came to the River St. Jago. [---+++] This River is near 2 d. North of the Equator. It is large and navigable some leagues up; and 7 leagues from the Sea it divides itself into two parts, making an Island that is 4 leagues wide against the Sea. The widest branch is that on the S. W. side of the Island. Both branches are very deep; but the mouth of the narrower is so choakt with sholes that at low water, even Canoas cannot enter. Above the Island it is a league wide, and the Stream runs pretty streight, and very swift. The Tide flows about 3 leagues up the River, but to what height I know not. Probably the River hath its original from some of the rich Mountains near the City of Quito, and it runs thro a Country, as rich in soil, as perhaps any in the world, especially when it draws within 10 or 12 leagues of the Sea. The Land there both on the Island, and on both sides of the River, is of a black deep Mold, producing extraordinary great tall Trees of many sorts, such as usually grow in these hot Climates. I shall only give an account of the Cotton and Cabbage-trees, whereof there is great plen- ty; and they are as large of their kinds as ever I saw. [---+++] There are two sorts of Cotton-trees, one is called the Red, the other the White Cotton-tree. The white Cotton-tree grows like an Oak, but generally much [+++---] 165 An.1684 Cotton-trees. much bigger and taller than our Oaks: The body is streight and clear from knots or boughs to the very head: there it spreads forth many great limbs just like an Oak. The Bark is smooth and of a grey co- lour: the Leaves are as big as a large Plumb Leaf, jogged at the edge; they are oval, smooth, and of a dark green colour. Some of these Trees have their bodies much bigger 18 or 20 foot high, than nearer the ground, being big-bellied like Nine-pins. They bear a very fine sort of Cotton, called Silk Cotton. When this Cotton is ripe the Trees appear like our Apple-trees in England, when full of Blossoms. If I do not mistake, the Cotton falls down in November, or December: then the ground is covered white with it. This is not substantial and continuous, like that which grows upon the Cotton-shrubs, in Plantati- ons, but like the Down of Thistles; so that I did never know any use made of it in the West Indies, be- cause it is not worth the labour of gathering it: but in the East Indies the natives gather and use it for Pillows. It hath a small black Seed among it. The Leaves of this Tree fall off the beginning of April; while the old Leaves are falling off the young ones spring out, and in a weeks time the Tree casts off her old Robes, and is cloathed in a new pleasant garb. The red Cotton-tree is like the other, but hardly so big: it bears no Cotton, but its Wood is somewhat harder of the two, yet both sorts are soft spungy Wood, fit for no use that I know, but only for Canoas, which being streight and tall they are very good for; but they will not last long, especi- ally if not drawn ashore often and tarred; other- wise the Worm and the Water soon rot them. They are the biggest Trees, or perhaps Weeds rather, in the West Indies. They are common in the East and West Indies in good fat Land. [---+++] As the Cotton is the biggest Tree in the Woods, so the Cabbage-tree is the tallest: The Body is not very [+++---]166 An.1684 Cabbage-trees. very big, but very high and streight. I have mea- sured one in the Bay of Campeachy 120 feet long as it lay on the ground, and there are some much higher. It has no Limbs nor Boughs, but at the head there are many Branches bigger than a mans Arm. These Branches are not covered, but flat, with sharp edges; they are 12 or 14 foot long. A- bout 2 foot from the Trunk, the Branches shoot forth small long leaves, about an inch broad, which grow so regularly on both sides of the Branch, that the whole Branch seems to be but one Leaf, made up of many small ones. The Cabbage Fruit shoots out in the midst of these Branches, from the top of the Tree: It is invested with many young Leaves or Branches, which are ready to spread abroad, as the old Branches droop and fall down. The Cabbage it self when it is taken out of the Leaves which it seems to be folded in, is as big as the small of a mans Leg, and a foot long: It is as white as Milk, and as sweet as a Nut if eaten raw; and it is very sweet and wholefom if boiled. Besides, the Cab- bage it self, there grow out between the Cabbage and the large Branches, small twigs as of a Shrub, about two foot long from their Stump. At the end of those Twigs (which grow very thick together) there hang Berries, hard and round, and as big as a Cherry. These the Tree sheds every year, and they are very good for Hogs; for this reason the Spaniards fine any who shall cut down one of these in their Woods. The body of the Tree is full of rings round it, half a foot afunder from the bottom to the top. The Bark is thin and brittle; the Wood is black and very hard; the heart or middle of the Tree is white pith. They do not climb to get the Cabbage, but cut them down; for should they ga- ther it off the Tree as it stands, yet its head being gone it soon dies. These Trees are much used by Planters in Jamaica, to board the sides of the Houses; for [+++---]167 An.1684 Spaniards, why little acquainted here. for it is but splitting the Trunk into 4 parts with an Axe, and there are so many Planks. These Trees appear very pleasant, and they beautifie the whole Wood, spreading their green Branches above all o- ther Trees. [---+++] All this Country is subject to very great Rains, so that this part of Peru pays for the dry weather which they have about Lima and all that Coast. I believe that is one reason why the Spaniards have made such small discoveries, in this and other Rivers on this Coast. Another reason may be, because it lies not directly in their way; for they do not Coast it as long in going from Panama to Lima, but first go West- ward as far as to the Keys or Isles of Cobaya, for a Westerly wind, and from thence stand over towards Cape St. Francisco, not touching any where usualy, till they come to Manta near Cape St. Lorenzo. In their return indeed from Lima to Panama, they may keep along the Coast hereabouts; but then their Ships are always laden, whereas the light Ships that go from Panama, are most at leasure to make disco- veries. A third reason may be, the wildness and enmity of all the Natives on this Coast, who are naturally fortified by their Rivers and vast Woods, from whence with their Arrows they can easily an- noy any that shall land there to assault them. At this River particularly there are no Indians live with- in 6 leagues of the Sea, and all the Country so far is full of impassible Woods; so that to get at the Indians, or the Mines and Mountains, there is no way but by rowing up the River; and if any who are Enemies to the Natives attempt this, (as the Spaniards are always hated by them) they must all the way be exposed to the Arrows of those who would lye purposely in Ambush in the Woods, for them. These wild Indians have small Plantations of Maiz, and good Plaintain-gardens; for Plantains are their chiefest food. They have also a few Fowls and Hogs. [+++---]168 An.1684 St. Jago River. Hogs. It was to this River that we were bound, to seek for Canoas, therefore the 26th supposing our selves to be abreft of it, we went from our Ships with 4 Canoas. The 27th day in the morning we entered at half Flood into the smaller Branch of that River, and rowed up 6 leagues before we met any inhabitants. There we found two small Huts thatched with Pal- meto Leaves. The Indians seeing us rowing towards their Houses, got their Wives and little ones, with their Household-stuff, into their Canoas, and paddled away faster than we could row; for we were forced to keep in the middle of the River because of our Oars, but they with their Paddles kept close under the Banks, and so had not the strength of the stream against them, as we had. These Huts were close by the River on the East side of it, just against the end of the Island. We saw a great many other Houses a league from us on the other side of the Ri- ver; but the main ftream into which we were now come, seemed to be so swift, that we were afraid to put over, for fear we should not be able to get back again. We found only a Hog, some Fowls and Plantains in the Huts: We killed the Hog and the Fowls, which were dreft presently. Their Hogs they got (as I suppose) from the Spaniards by some accident, or from some Neighbouring Indians who converse with the Spaniards; for this that we took was of their European kind, which the Spaniards have introduced them into America very plentifully, especially into the Islands Jamaica, Hispaniola, and Cuba above all, being very largely stored with them; where they feed in the Woods in the day time, and at night come in at the sounding of a Conch-shell, and are put up in their Crauls or Pens, and yet some turn wild, which nevertheless are often decoy- ed in by the other, which being all marked, when- ever they see an unmarked Hog in the Pen they know it is a wild one, and shoot him presently. These [+++---]169 An.1684 Island Gallo. Tomaco River. These Crauls I have not seen on the Continent; where the Spaniards keep them tame at home. Among the Wild Indians, or in their Woods, are no Hogs, but Pecary and Warree, a sort I have men- tioned before. [---+++] After we had refreshed our selves, we returned toward the mouth of the River. It was the even- ing when we came from thence, and we got to the Rivers mouth the next morning before day: Our Ships when we left them were order'd to go to Gal- lo, where they were to stay for us. Gallo is a small uninhabited Island, lying in between 2 and 3 De- grees North Lat. It lyeth in a wide Bay about 3 leagues from the mouth of the River Tomaco; and 4 leagues and a half from a small Indian Village called Tomaco: The Island Gallo is of an indifferent heighth; it is cloathed with very good Timber Trees, and is therefore often visited with Barks from Guiaquil and other places: for most of the Timber carry'd from Guiaquil to Lima, is first fetcht from Gallo. There is a Spring of good Water at the N. E. end: at that place there is a fine small Sandy Bay, where there is good landing. The road for Ships is against this Bay, where there is good secure riding in 6 or 7 fa- thom water; and here Ships may careen. It is but shole water all about this Island; yet there is a Chan- nel to come in at, where there is not less than 4 fa- thom water: You must go in with the Tyde of Flood, and come out with Ebb, sounding all the way. [---+++] Tomaco is a large River that takes its Name from an Indian Village so called: It is reported to spring from the rich Mountains about Quito. It is thick in- habited with Indians; and there are some Spaniards that live there, who traffick with the Indians for Gold. It is shoal at the mouth of the River, yet Barks may enter. [+++---]170 An.1684 Tomaco Town. The Village Tomaco is but small, and is seated not far from the mouth of the River. It is a place to entertain the Spanish Merchants that come to Gallo to load Timber, or to traffick with the Indians for Gold. At this place one Doleman, with 7 or 8 Men more, once of Capt. Sharp's Crew, were kill'd in the year 1680. From the branch of the River St. Jago, where we now lay, to Tomaco, is about 5 leagues; the Land low, and full of Creeks, so that Canoas may pass within Land through those Creeks, and from thence into Tomaco River. [---+++] The 28th day we left the River of St. Jago, crof- sing some Creeks in our way with our Canoas; and came to an Indian House, where we took the Man and all his Family. We staid here till the afternoon, and then rowed toward Tomaco, with the Man of this House for our Guide. We arrived at Tomaco a- bout 12 a clock at night. Here we took all the In- habitants of the Village, and a Spanish Knight, called Don Diego de Pinas. This Knight came in a Ship from Lima to lade Timber. The Ship was riding in a Creek about a mile off, and there were only one Spaniard and 8 Indians aboard. We went in a Ca- noa with 7 Men and took her; she had no Goods, but 12 or 13 Jars of good Wine, which we took out, and the next day let the Ship go. Here an In- dian Canoa came aboard with three Men in her. These Men could not speak Spanish, neither could they distinguish us from Spaniards; the wild Indians usually thinking all white Men to be Spaniards. We gave them 3 or 4 Callabashes of Wine, which they freely drank. They were streight-bodied, and well limb'd Men, of a mean heighth; their Hair black, long visag'd, small Noses and Eyes; and were thin fac'd, ill look'd Men, of a very dark copper color. A little before night Captain Swan and all of us re- turned to Tomaco, and left the Vesscl to the Seamen. The 31st day two of our Canoas, who had been up 171 An. 1684 A Racquet taken. up the River of Tomaco, returned back again to the Village. They had rowed 7 or 8 leagues up, and found but one Spanish House, which they were told did belong to a Lady who lived at Lima; she had Ser- vants here that traded with the Indians for Gold; but they seeing our Men coming ran away: yet our Men found there several Ounces of Gold in Callabashes. [---+++] The first day of January 1685. we went from To- maco towards Gallo. We carried the Knight with us and two small Canoas which we took there, and while we were rowing over, one of our Canoas took a Pacquet Boat that was sent from Panama to Lima. The Spaniards threw the Pacquet of Letters over board with a Line and a Buoy to it, but our Men seeing it took it up, and brought the Letters, and all the Prisoners aboard our Ships that were then at an anchor at Gallo. Here we stayed till the 6th day reading the Letters, by which we understood that the Armada from Old Spain was come to Portu- bel; and that the President of Panama had sent this Pacquet on purpose to hasten the Plate Fleet thither from Lima. [---+++] We were very joyful of this News, and therefore sent away the Pacquet Boat with all her Letters; and we altered our former resolutions of going to La- shelia. We now concluded to careen our Ships as speedily as we could, that we might be ready to intercept this Fleet. The properest place that we could think on for doing it was among the Kings Islands or Pearl Keys, because they are near Panama, and all Ships bound to Panama from the Coast of Lima pass by them; so that being there we could not possibly miss the Fleet. According to these reso- lutions we failed the next morning, in order to exe- cute what we designed. We were 2 Ships and 3 Barks in Company, viz. Captain Davis, Captain Swan, a Fireship, and 2 small Barks, as Tenders; [+++---] 172 An. 1685 Gorgonia. one on Captain Davis his Ship, the other on Cap- tain Swan's. We weighed before day, and got out all but Captain Swan's Tender which never budged; for the men were all asleep when we went out, and the Tide of flood coming on before they waked, we were forced to stay for them till the next day. [---+++] The 8th day in the morning we descried a sail to the West of us; the Wind was at South, and we chased her, and before noon took her. She was a Ship of about 90 Tun laden with Flower; she came from Truxillio, and was bound to Panama. This Ship came very opportunely to us, for Flower began to grow scarce, and Captain Davis his men grudg'd at what was given to Captain Swan, who, as I said before, had none but what he had from Captain Davis. [---+++] We jogged on after this with a gentle gale to- wards Gorgonia, an Island lying about 25 leagues from the Island Gallo. The 9th day we anchored at Gorgonia, on the West side of the Island, in 38 fa- thom, clean ground, not 2 Cables length from the shore. Gorgonia is an uninhabited Island, in lat. a- bout 3 degrees North: It is a pretty high Island, and very remarkable, by reason of 2 saddles, or risings and fallings on the top. It is about 2 leagues long, and a league broad; and it is 4 leagues from the Main: At the West-end is another small Island. The Land against the Anchoring place is low; there is a small sandy Bay and good landing. The Soil or Mold of it is black and deep, in the low ground, but on the side of the high Land it is a kind of a red clay. This Island is very well clothed with large Trees of several sorts, that are flourishing and green all the year. It's very well watered with small Brooks that issue from the high Land. Here are a great many little black Monkeys, some Indian Conies, and a few Snakes, which are all the Land Animals that I know there. It is reported of this Island [+++---] 173 An. 1685 Pearl-Oysters. Island that it rains on every day in the year more or less; but that I can disprove: however it is a very wet Coast, and it rains abundantly here all the year long: There are but few fair days; for there is little difference in the seasons of the year between the wet and dry; only in that season which should be the dry time, the rains are less frequent and more moderate than in the wet season, for then it pours as out of a Sieve. It is deep water, and no anchoring any where about this Island, only at that West side: The Tyde riseth and falleth 7 or 8 foot up and down. Here are a great many Perewincles and Muscles to be had at low water. Then the Monkeys come down by the Sea side and catch them; digging them out of their Shells with their Claws. [---+++] Here are Pearl-Oysters in great plenty: They grow to the loose Rocks, in 4, 5, or 6 fathom wa- ter, by beards, or little small roots, as a Muscle: These Oysters are commonly flatter and thinner than other Oysters; otherwise much alike in shape. The fish is not sweet nor very wholesome; it is as flimy as a Shell-Snail: they taste very copperish, if eaten raw, and are best boyl'd. The Indians who gather them for the Spaniards, hang the meat of them on strings like Jews-ears, and dry them before they eat them. The Pearl is found at the head of the Oyster, lying between the meat and the shell. Some will have 20 or 30 small Seed-Pearl, fome none at all, and some will have 1 or 2 pretty large ones. The inside of the shell is more glorious than the Pearl itself. I did never see any in the South Seas but here. It is reported there are some at the South end of Callifornia. In the West Indies, the Ran- cho Rejs, or Rancheria, spoken of in Chap. 3. is the place where they are found most plentifully. 'Tis said there are some at the Island Margarita, near St. Augustin, a Town in the Gulf of Florida, &c. In the [+++---] 174 An. 1685 Cape Corrientes. Point Garachina. the East Indies. The Island Sinam, near the South end of China, is said to have plenty of these Oysters more productive of large round Pearl than those in other other places. They are found also in other parts of the East Indies, on the Persian Coast. [---+++] At this Island Gorgona we rummaged our Prize, and found a few Boxes of Marmalade, and 3 or 4 Jars of Brandy, which were equally shared between Captain Davis, Captain Swan, and their Men. Here we fill'd all our Water; and Captain Swan furnished himself with Flower; afterward we turned ashore a great many Prisoners, but kept the chiefest to put them ashore in a better place. [---+++] The 13th day we sailed from hence toward the Kings Islands. We were now 6 Sail, 2 Men of War, 2 Tenders, a Fireship, and the Prize. We had but little Wind, but what we had was the common Trade at South. The Land we sailed by on the Main is very low towards the Sea side, but in the Country there are very high Mountains. [---+++] The 16th day we passed by Cape Corrientes. This Cape is in lat. 5 d. 10 m. it is high bluff Land, with 3 or 4 small Hillocks on the top. It appears at a di- stance like an Island. Here we found a strong cur- rent running to the North, but whether it be always so I know not. The day after we passed by the Cape we saw a small white Island which we chased, supposing it had been a Sail, till coming near we found our error. [---+++] The 21st day we saw Point Garachina. This Point is in lat 7 d. 20 m. North; it is pretty high Land, rocky, and destitute of Trees; yet within Land it is Woody. It is fenced with Rocks against the Sea. Within the Point, by the Sea, at low Water, you may find store of Oysters and Muscles. [---+++] The Kings Islands, or Pearl Keys, are about 12 leagues distant from this Point. Between Point Ga- rachina and them there is a small low flat barren Island, called [+++---] 175 An. 1685 The Kings, or Pearl Islands. called Gallera, at which Captain Harris was sharing with his Men the Gold he took in his pillaging Santa Maria, which I spake of a little before, when on a sudden 5 Spanish Barks, fitted out on purpose at Pa- nama, came upon him; but he fought them so stout- ly with one small Bark he had, and some few Ca- noas, boarding their Admiral particularly, that they were all glad to leave him. By this Island we an- chored, and sent our Boats to the Kings Islands for a good careening place. [---+++] The Kings Islands are a great many low woody Islands, lying N. W. by N. and S. E. by S. They are about 7 leagues from the Main, and 14 leagues in length; and from Panama about 12 leagues. Why they are called the Kings Islands, I know not; they are sometimes, and mostly in Maps, called the Pearl Islands. I cannot imagin wherefore they are called so, for I did never see one Pearl Oyster about them, nor any Pearl Oyster Shells; but on the other Oy- sters I have made many a Meal there: The norther- most Island of all this range is called Pacheca, or Pa- cheque. This is but a small Island, distant from Pa- nama 11 or 12 leagues. The Southermost of them is called St. Pauls. Besides these two I know no more that are called by any particular name, though there are many that far exceed either of the two in big- ness. Some of these Islands are planted with Plan- tains and Bonanas; and there are Fields of Rice on others of them. The Gentlemen of Panama, to whom they belong, keep Negroes there, to plant, weed, and husband the Plantations. Many of them, especially the largest, are wholly untill'd; yet very good fat Land, full of large Trees. These unplanted Islands shelter many Runaway Negroes, who abscond in the Woods all day, and in the night boldly pillage the Plantain Walks. Betwixt these Islands and the Main is a Channel of 7 or 8 leagues wide; there is good depth of Water, and good anchoring all the way. [+++---] 176 An. 1685 Lavelia. Natá. way. The Islands border thick on each other, yet they make many small narrow deep Channels, fit only for Boats to pass between most of them. At the S. E. end, about a league from St. Pauls Island, there is a good place for Ships to careen, or hale ashore. It is surrounded with the Land, and hath a good deep Channel on the North side to go in at. The tide rifeth here about 10 foot perpendicular. [---+++] We brought our Ships into this place the 25th day, but were forced to tarry for a Spring Tide before we could have Water enough to clean them; there- fore we first cleaned our Barks, that they might cruise before Panama, while we lay here. The 27th day our Barks being clean we sent them out with 20 Men in each. The fourth day after they returned with a Prize laden with Maiz, or Indian Corn, Salt Beef, and Fowls. She came from Lavelia and was bound to Panama. Lavelia is a Town we once de- signed to attempt. It is pretty large and stands on the Banks of a River on the North side of the Bay of Panama, 6 or 7 leagues from the Sea. [---+++] Nata is another such Town, standing in a Plain near another branch of the same River. In these Towns, and some others on the same Coast, they breed Hogs, Fowls, Bulls and Cows, and plant Maize purposely for the support of Panama, which is supplied with Provision mostly from other Towns and the neighbouring Islands. [---+++] The Beef and Fowl our Men took came to us in a good time, for we had eaten but little Flesh since we left the Island Plata. The Harbor where we ca- reen'd was incompaffed by three Islands, and our Ships rode in the middle. That on which we haled our Ships ashore was a little Island on the North side of the Harbor. The was a fine small sandy Bay, but all the rest of the Island was invironed with Rocks, on which at low Water we did use to gather Oy- sters, Clams, Muscles, and Limpits. The Clam is a [+++---] 177 An. 1685 Bay of Panama. a fort of Oyster which grows so fast to the Rock; that there is no separating it from thence, therefore we did open it where it grows, and take out the Meat, which is very large, fat, and sweet. Here are a few common Oysters, such as we have in En- gland; of which fort I have met with none in these Seas, but here, at Point Garachina, at Puna, and on the Mexican Coast, in the lat. of 23 d. North. I have a Manuscript of Mr. Teat, Captain Swan's chief Mate, which gives an account of Oysters plenti- fully found in Port St. Julian, on the East side and somewhat to the North of the Streights of Magel- lan: but there is no mention made of what Oysters they are. Here are some Guanoes, but we found no other fort of Land Animal. Here are also some Pigeons and Turtle-Doves. The rest of the Islands that incompass this Harbor had of all these forts of Creatures. Our Men therefore did every day go over in Canoas to them to fish; fowl, or hunt for Guanoes; but having one Man surprised once by some Spaniards lying there in Ambush, and carried off by them to Panama, we were after that more cautious of straggling. [---+++] The 14th day of February 1685: we made an end of cleaning our Ship, fill'd all our Water, and stock'd our selves with Fire-wood. The 15th day we went out from among the Islands, and anchored in the Channel between them and the Main, in 25 fathom Water, fast oazy ground: The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived; therefore we intended to cruise before the City of Panama, which is from this place about 25 leagues. The next day we sailed towards Pana- ma, passing in the Channel between the Kings Islands and the Main. It is very pleasant sailing here, ha- ving the Main on one side, which appears in divers forms. It is beautified with many small Hills clothed with Woods of divers sorts of Trees, which are al- ways green and flourishing. There are some few small [+++---] 178 An. 1685 City of Panama. small high Islands within a league of the Main, scat- tering here and there one: These are partly woody, partly bare; and they, as well as the Main, ap- pear very pleasant. The Kings Islands are on the o- ther side of this Channel, and make also a very love- ly prospect as you sail by them. These, as I have already noted, are low and flat, appearing in seve- ral shapes, according as they are naturally formed by many small Creeks and Branches of the Sea. The 16th day we anchored at Pacheque, in 17 fathom Wa- ter, about a league from the Island, and sailed from thence the next day with the Wind at N. N. E. di- recting our course towards Panama. [---+++] When we came abreast of Old Panama we anchored, and sent our Canoa ashore with our Prisoner Don Diego de Pinas, with a Letter to the Governor, to treat about an Exchange for our Man they had spi- rited away, as I said; and another Captain Harris left in the River of St. Maria the year before, coming over Land. Don Diego was desirous to go on this Errand in the name, and with the consent of the rest of our Spanish Prisoners; but by some accident he was killed before he got ashore, as we heard afterwards. [---+++] Old Panama was formerly a famous place, but it was taken by Sir Henry Morgan about the year 1673. and at that time great part of it was burned to ashes, and it was never re-edified since. [---+++] New Panama is a very fair City, standing close by the Sea, about 4 mile from the Ruines of the Old Town. It gives name to a large Bay which is fa- mous for a great many navigable Rivers, some whereof are very rich in Gold; it is also very plea- fantly sprinkled with Islands, that are not only profi- table to their Owners, but very delightful to the Passengers and Seamen that sail by them; some of which I have already described. It is incompaffed on the backside with a pleasant Country, which is full of small Hills and Valleys, beautified with many Groves [+++---] 179 An. 1685 Panama. The Spanish Armada. Groves and Spots of Trees, that appear in the Sa- vannahs like so many little Islands. This City is in- compaffed with a high Stone Wall; the Houses are said to be of Brick. Their Roofs appear higher than the top of the City Wall. It is beautified with a great many fair Churches and Religious Houses, be- sides the President's House, and other eminent Build- ings; which altogether make one of the finest objects that I did ever see, in America especially. There are a great many Guns on her Walls, most of which look toward the Land. They had none at all against the Sea, when I first entered those Seas with Captain Sawkins, Captain Coxon, Captain Sharp, and others; for till then they did not fear any Enemy by Sea: but since then they have planted Guns clear round. This is a flourishing City by reason it is a thorough- fair for all imported or exported Goods and Trea- fure, to and from all parts of Peru and Chili; whereof their Store-houses are never empty. The Road also is seldom or never without Ships. Besides, once in 3 years, when the Spanish Armada comes to Portobel, then the Plate Fleet also from Lima comes hither with the Kings Treasure and abundance of Merchant Ships full of Goods and Plate; at that time the City is full of Merchants and Gentlemen; the Seamen are busy in landing the Treasure and Goods, and the Carriers, or Caravan Masters, im- ployed in carrying it over land on Mules (in vast droves every day) to Portobel, and bringing back European Goods from thence: Though the City be then so full, yet during this heat of business there is no hiring of an ordinary Slave under a piece of Eight a day; Houses, also Chambers, Beds, and Victuals, are then extraordinary dear. [---+++] Now I am on this subject, I think it will not be amiss to give the Reader an account of the progress of the Armada from Old Spain, which comes thus every three years into the Indies. Its first arrival is at [+++---] 180 An. 1685 A Spanish Prophesy. at Cartagena, from whence, as I have been told, an Express is immediately sent over land to Lima, thro the Southern Continent, and another by Sea to Porto- bel, with two Pacquets of Letters, one for the Vice- roy of Lima, the other for the Viceroy of Mexico. I know not which way that of Mexico goes after its ar- rival at Portobel, whether by Land or Sea : but I be- lieve by Sea to La Vera Cruz. That for Lima is sent by Land to Panama, and from thence by Sea to Lima. [---+++] Upon mention of these Pacquets I shall digress yet a little further, and acquaint my Reader, that before my first going over into the South Seas with Captain Sharp (and indeed before any Privateers (at least since Drake and Oxengham) had gone that way which we afterwards went, except La Sound, a French Cap- tain, who by Captain Wright's Instructions had ven- tured as far as Cheap Town with a body of Men, but was driven back again) I being then on board Capt. Coxon, in company with 3 or 4 more Privateers, about 4 leagues to the East of Portobel, we took the Pacquets bound thither from Cartagena. We open'd a great quantity of the Merchants Letters, and found the Contents of many of them to be very surprizing, the Merchants of several parts of Old Spain thereby informing their Correspondents of Panama, and else- where, of a certain Prophecy that went about Spain that year, the tenour of which was; That there would be English Privateers that year in the West In- dies, who would make such great Discoveries, as to open a door into the South Seas, which they supposed was fasteft shut; and the Letters were accordingly full of cautions to their Friends to be very watchful and careful of their Coasts. [---+++] This Door they spake of we all concluded must be the passage over Land through the Country of the Indians of Darien, who were a little before this become our Friends, and had lately fallen out with the Spani- ards, breaking off the Intercourse which for some time 181 An. 1685 The Story of John Gret. time they had with them : and upon calling al- fo to mind the frequent Invitations we had from thoſe Indian: a little before this time, to paſs through their Country, and fall upon the Spaniards in the South Seas, we from henceforward began to enter- tain ſuch thoughts in earneſt, and ſoon came to a Reſolution to make thoſe Attempts which we after- wards did, with Capt. Sharp, Coxon, &c. So that the taking theſe Letters gave the firſt life to thoſe bold Undertakings : and we took the advantage of the fears the Spaniards were in from that Prophecy, or probable Conjecture, or whatever it were; for we ſealed up moſt of the Letters again; and ſent them aſhore to Portobel. [---+++] The occaſion of this our late Friendſhip with thoſe Indians was thus. About 15 years before this time Capt. Wright being cruiſing near that Coaſt, and go- ing in among the Samballoes Iſles to ſtrike Fiſh and Turtle, took there a young Indian Lad as he was pad- dling about in a Canoa. He brought him aboard his Ship, and gave him the Name of John Gret, cloathing him, and intending to breed him among the Engliſh. But his Moskito Strikers, taking a fancy to the Boy, begg'd him of Captain Wright, and took him with them at their return into their own Country, where they taught him their Art, and he married a Wife among them, and learnt their Language, as he had done ſome broken Engliſh while he was with Captain Wright, which he improved among the Moskitoes, who correſponding ſo much with us, do all of them ſmatter Engliſh after a fort ; but his own Language he had almoſt forgot. Thus he lived among them for many years ; till about 6 or 8 months before our ta- king theſe Letters, Captain Wright being again among the Samballoes, took thence another Indian Boy about 10 or 12 years old; the Son of a Man of ſome ac- count among thoſe Indians ; and wanting a Striker, he went away to the Moskito's Country, where he took [+++---] 182 An. 1685 The Story of John Gret. in John Gret, who was now very expert at it. [---+++] John Gret was much pleaſed to ſee a Lad there of his own Country, and it came into his mind to perſuade Capt. Wright upon this occaſion to endeavour a Friend- ſhip with thoſe Indians ; a thing our Privateers had long coveted, but never durſt attempt, having ſuch dreadful apprehenſions of their Numbers and Fierce- neſs : But John Gret offered the Captain that he would go aſhore and negotiate the matter ; who ac- cordingly ſent him in his Canoa till he was near the shore, which of a ſudden was covered with Indians, ſtanding ready with their Bows and Arrows. John Gret, who had only a Clout about his middle, as the faſhion of the Indians is, leapt then out of the Boat, and ſwam, the Boat retiring a little way back; and the Indians aſhore ſeeing him in that habit, and hearing him call to them in their own Tongue (which he had recovered by converſing with the Boy lately taken) ſuffered him quietly to land, and gathered all about to hear how it was with him. He told them particularly, that he was one of their Countrymen, and how he had been taken many years ago by the Engliſh, who had uſed him very kindly ; that they were miſtaken in being ſo much afraid of that Nation, who were not Enemies to them, but to the Spaniards : to confirm this he told them how well the Engliſh treated another young Lad of their:s, they had lately taken, ſuch an ones Son ; for this he had learnt of the Youth, and his Father was one of the company that was got together on the ſhore. He persuaded them therefore to make a League with theſe friendly people, by whoſe help they might be able to quell the Spaniards, aſſuring alſo the Father of the Boy, that if he would but go with him to the Ship, which they ſaw at anchor at an Iſland there (it was Golden Iſland, the Eaiſtermoſt of the Samballoes, a place where there is good ſtriking for Turtle) he ſhould have his Son reſtored to him, and [+++---] 183 183 An. 1685 Agreement of the Engliſh with the Darien Indians. and they might all expect a very kind Reception. [---+++] Upon theſe aſſurances 20 or 30 of them went off pre- ſently, in 2 or 3 Canoas laden with Plantains, Bona- noes, Fowls, &c. and Captain Wright having treated them on board, went aſhore with them, and was en- tertained by them, and Preſents were made on each fide. Captain Wright gave the Boy to his Father in a very handſom Engliſh Dreſs, which he had cauſed to be made purpoſely for him ; and an Agreement was immediately ſtruck up between the Engliſh and theſe Indians, who invited the Engliſh through their Coun- try into the South Seas. [---+++] Puiſuant to this Agreement, the Engliſh, when they came upon any ſuch deſign, or for Traffick with them, were to give a certain ſignal which they pitcht upon, whereby they might be known. But it hap- pen'd that Mr. La Sound, the French Captain ſpoken of a little before, being then one of Captain Wright's Men, learnt this Signal, and ſtaying aſhore at Petit- Guavres, upon Captain Wright's going thither ſoon after, who had his Commiſſion from thence, he gave the other French there, ſuch an account of the Agreement before mentioned, and the buſineſs of entring the South Seas thereupon, that he got at the head of about 120 of them, who made that unſuc- ceſsful attempt upon Cheapo, as I faid ; making uſe of the ſignal they had learnt for paſſing the Indians Country, who at that time could not diſtinguiſh ſo well between the ſeveral Nations of the Europeans, as they can ſince. [---+++] From ſuch ſmall beginnings aroſe thoſe great ſtirs that have been ſince made all over the South Seas, viz. from the Letters we took, and from the Friendſhip contracted with theſe Indians by means of John Gret. Yet this Friendſhip had like to have been ſtifled in its Infancy ; for within a few months after an Engliſh trading Sloop came on this Coaſt from Jamaica, and John Gret, who by this time had advanced himſelf te [+++---] 184 184 An. 1685 Courſe of the Spaniſh Armada. be a Grandee among theſe Indians, together with 5 or 6 more of that quality, went off to the Sloop in their long Gowns, as the Cuſtom is for ſuch to wear among them. Being received aboard they expected to find every thing friendly, and John Gret talkt to them in Engliſh; but theſe Engliſh Men, having no know- ledge at all of what had happened, endeavoured to make them Slaves (as is commonly done) ; for upon carrying them to Jamaica they could have ſold them for 10 or 12 pound a piece. But John Gret, and the reft, perceiving this, leapt all over board, and were by the others killed every one of them in the Water. The Indians on ſhore never came to the knowledge of it ; if they had, it would have endangered our Cor- reſpondence. Several times after, upon our conver- fing with them, they enquired of us what was become of their Countrymen : but we told them we knew not, as indeed it was a great while after that we heard this ſtory ; ſo they concluded the Spaniards had met with them, and killed, or taken them. [---+++] But to return to the account of the progreſs of the Armada which we left at Cartagena : After an ap- pointed ſtay there of about 60 days, as I take it, it goes thence to Portobel, where it lies 30 days, and no longer. Therefore the Viceroy of Lima on notice of the Armada's arrival at Cartagena, immediately ſends away the Kings Treaſure to Panama, where it is land- ed, and lies ready to be ſent to Portobel upon the firſt News of the Armada's arrival there. This is the rea- fon partly of their ſending Expreſſes ſo early to Lima, that upon the Armada's firſt coming to Portobel, the Treaſure and Goods may lye ready at Panama, to be ſent away upon the Mules: and it requires ſome time for the Lima Fleet to unlade, becauſe the Ships ride not at Panama, but at Perica, which are 3 ſmall Iſlands 2 leagues from thence. The Kings Treaſure is ſaid to amount commonly to about 24000000 of Pieces of Eight ; beſides abundance of Merchants Money. [+++---] 185 185 An. 1685 Spaniſh Armada and Flota. Money. All this Treaſure is carried on Mules, and there are large Stables at both places to lodge them. Sometimes the Merchants to ſteal the Cuſtom pack up Money among Goods, and ſend it to Venta de Cruzes on the River Chagre; from thence down the River and afterwards by Sea to Portobel: in which paſſage I have known a whole Fleet of Periago's and Canoas taken. The Merchants who are not ready to ſail by the thirtieth day after the Armada's arrival are in danger to be left behind, for the Ships all weigh the 30th day preciſely, and go to the Harbors Mouth : yet ſometimes, on great importunity, the Admiral may ſtay a week longer ; for it is impoſſible that all the Merchants ſhould get ready, for want of Men. When the Armada departs from Portobel it re- turns again to Cartagena, by which time all the Kings Revenue which comes out of the Country is got rea- dy there. Here alſo meets them again a great Ship called the Pattache, one of the Spaniſh Galeons, which before their firſt arrival at Cartagena goes from the reſt of the Armada on purpoſe to gather the Tribute of the Coaſt, touching at the Margarita's, and other places in her way thence to Cartagena, as Punta de Guaira, Maracaybo, Rio de la Hacha, and Sancta Martha ; and at all theſe places takes in Treaſure for the King. Af- ter the ſet ſtay at Cartagena the Armada goes away to the Havana in the Iſle of Cuba, to meet there the Flo- ta, which is a ſmall number of Ships that go to La Ve- ra Cruz, and there takes in the effects of the City and Country of Mexico, and what is brought thither in the Ship which comes thither every year from the Philippine Iſlands ; and having joined the reſt at the Havana,the whole Armada ſets fail for Spain through the Gulf of Florida. The Ships in the South Seas lye a great deal at Panama before they return to Lima. The Merchants and Gentlemen which come from Lima, ſtay as little time as they can at Portobel, which is at the beſt but a fickly place, and at this time is very full of [+++---] 186 186 An. 1685 The Air and Weather of Panama. of men from all parts. But Panama, as it is not over- charg'd with men ſo unreaſonably as the other, tho very full, ſo it enjoys a good air, lying open to the Sea wind ; which riſeth commonly about 10 or 11 a clock in the morning, and continues till 8 or 9 a clock at night : then the Land wind comes, and blows till 8 or 9 in the morning. [---+++] There are no Woods nor Marſhes near Panama, but a brave dry Champain land; not ſubject to fogs nor miſts. The wet ſeaſon begins in the latter end of May, and continues till November. At that time the Sea breezes are at S. S. W. and the Land winds at N. At the dry ſeaſon the winds are moſt betwixt the E. N. E. and the North : Yet off in the Bay they are commonly at South ; but of this I ſhall be more particular in my Chapter of Winds in the Appendix. The rains are not ſo exceſſive about Panama it ſelf, as on either ſide of the Bay : yet in the months of June, July and Auguſt, they are ſevere enough. Gen- tlemen that come from Peru to Panama, eſpecially in the theſe months, cut their hair cloſe, to preſerve them from Fevers ; for the place is fickly to them, becauſe they come out of a Country which never hath any Rains or Fogs, but enjoys a conſtant ſerenity ; but I am apt to believe this City is healthy enough to any other people. Thus much for Panama. [---+++] The 20th day we went and anchored within a league of the Iſlands Perico (which are only 3 little barren rocky Iſlands) in expectation of the Preſident of Panama s Anſwer to the Letter, I ſaid, we ſent him by Don Diego; treating about exchange of Priſoners ; this being the day on which he had given us his Pa- role to return with an Anſwer. The 21ſt day we took another Bark laden with Hogs, Fowl, Salt Beef, and Moloffoes: ſhe came from Lavelia and was going to Panama. In the afternoon we ſent another Letter aſhore by a young Moſtiſo (a mixt brood of Indians and Europeans) directed to the Preſident, and 3 or 4 Co- pies [+++---] 187 187 An. 1685 I. Tabago. The Mammet-tree. pies of it to be diſperſed abroad among the common People. This Letter, which was full of Threats, to- gether with the young Man's managing the buſineſs, wrought ſo powerfully among the common People, that the City was in an uproar. The Preſident im- mediately ſent a Gentleman aboard, who demanded the Flower Prize that we took off of Gallo, and all the Priſoners, for the Ranſom of our two Men: but our Captains told him they would exchange Man for Man. The Gentleman ſaid he had not orders for that, but if we would ſtay till the next day he would bring the Governnours anſwer. The next day he brought aboard our two Men, and had about 40 Priſoners in exchange. [---+++] The 24th day we run over to the Iſland Tabago. Tabago is in the Bay, and about 6 leagues South of Panama. It is about 3 mile long, and 2 broad, a high mountainous Iſland. On the North ſide it declines with a gentle deſcent to the Sea. The Land by the Sea is of a black Mold and deep; but toward the top of the Mountain it is ſtrong and dry. The North ſide of this Iſland makes a very pleaſant ſhew : it ſeems to be a Garden of Fruit incloſed with many high Trees ; the chiefeſt Fruits are Plantains and Bona- na's. They thrive very well from the foot to the middle of it ; but thoſe near the top are but ſmall, as wanting moiſture. Cloſe by the Sea there are many Coco Nut Trees which make a very pleaſant ſight. Within the Coco Nut Trees there grow many Mam- met Trees. The Mammet is a large, tall, and ſtreight- bodied Tree, clean, without Knots or Limbs, for 60 or 70 foot, or more. The Head ſpreads abroad into many ſmall Limbs, which grow pretty thick, and cloſe together. The Bark is of a dark grey colour, thick and rough, full of large chops. The Fruit is bigger than Quince, it is round, and covered with a thick Rind, of a grey colour. When the Fruit is ripe the Rind is yellow and tough; and it will then peel off [+++---] 188 188 An. 1685 A Spaniſh Strategem. off like Leather; but before it is ripe it is brittle : the Juice is then white and clammy ; but when ripe not ſo. The ripe Fruit under the Rind is yellow as a Carret ; and in the middle are two large rough Stones flat, and each of them much bigger than an Almond. The Fruit ſmells very well, and the taſte is anſwera- ble to the ſmell. The S. W. end of the Iſland hath never been cleared, but is full of Fire-wood, and Trees of divers forts. There is a very fine ſmall Brook of freſh Water, that ſprings out of the ſide of the Mountain, and gliding through the Grove of Fruit- trees, falls into the Sea on the North ſide. There was a ſmall Town ſtanding by the Sea, with a Church at one end, but now the biggeſt part of it is deſtroy- ed by the Privateers. There is good anchoring right againſt the Town, about a mile from the ſhore, where you may have 16 or 18 fathom Water, ſoft oazy ground. There is a ſmall Iſland cloſe by the N. W. end of this called Tabogilla, which is a ſmall Channel to paſs between. There is another woody Iſland about a mile on the N. E. ſide of Tabago, and a good Channel between them : this Iſland hath no Name that ever I heard. [---+++] While we lay at Tabago we had like to have had a ſcurvy trick plaid us by a pretended Merchant from Panama, who came, as by ſtealth, to traffick with us privately ; a thing common enough with the Spaniſh Merchants, both in the North and South Seas, notwith- ſtanding the ſeverere Prohibitions of the Governours; who yet ſometimes connive at it, and will even trade with the Privateers themſelves. Our Merchant was by agreement to bring out his Bark laden with Goods in the night, and we to go and anchor at the South of Perico. Out he came, with a Fireſhip inſtead of a Bark, and approached very near, haling us with the Watch-word we had agreed upon. We ſuſpecting the worſt, call'd to them to come to an anchor, and upon their not doing ſo fired at them : when immediately their [+++---] 189 189 An. 1685 Spaniſh Stratagems. their Men going out into the Canoas ſet fire to their Ship, which blew up, and burnt cloſe by us ; ſo that we were forced to cut our Cables in all haſte, and ſcamper away as well as we could. [---+++] The Spaniard was not altogether ſo politick in ap- pointing to meet us at Perico, for there we had Sea- room; whereas had he come thus upon us at Tabago, the Land-wind bearing hard upon us as it did, we muſt either have been burnt by the Fireſhip, or upon loofing our Cables have been driven aſhore : But I ſuppoſe they choſe Perico rather for the Scene of their Enterprize, partly becauſe they might there beſt ſculk among the Iſlands, and partly becauſe if their Exploit fail d, they could thence eſcape beſt from our Canoas to Panama, but 2 leagues off. [---+++] During this Exploit, Captain Swan (whoſe Ship was leſs than ours, and ſo not ſo much aim'd at by the Spaniards) lay about a mile off, with a Canoa at the Buoy of his Anchor, as fearing ſome Treachery from our pretended Merchant : and a little before the Bark blew up he ſaw a ſmall Float on the Water, and as it appeared, a Man on it, making towards his Ship ; but the Man dived, and diſappeared of a ſud- den, as thinking probably that he was diſcovered. [---+++] This was ſuppoſed to be one coming with ſome combuſtible matter to have ſtuck about the Rudder. For ſuch a trick Captain Sharp was ſerved at Coquimbo, and his Ship had like to have been burnt by it, if by meer accident it had not been diſcovered : I was then aboard Captain Sharp's Ship. Captain Swan ſeeing the Blaze by us, cut his Cables as we did, his Bark did the like ; ſo we kept under ſail all the night, being more ſcared than hurt. The Bark that was on fire drove burning towards Tabago ; but after the firſt blaſt ſhe did not burn clear, only made a ſmother, for ſhe was not well made, though Captain Bond had the framing and management of it. [---+++] 190 An. 1685 Capt. Bond. The South Sea Shipping. This Captain Bond was he of whom I made mention in my 4th Chapter. He, after his being at the Iſles of Cape Verd, ſtood away for the South Seas, at the inſtigation of one Richard Morton, who had been with Captain Sharp in the South Seas. In his way he met with Captain Eaton, and they two conſorted a day or two : at laſt Morton went aboard of Captain Eaton, and perſwaded him to loſe Captain Bond in the night, which Captain Eaton did, Morton continuing aboard of Captain Eaton, as finding his the better Ship. Cap- tain Bond thus loſing both his Confort Eaton, and Morton his Pilot, and his Ship being but an ordinary Sailer, he deſpaired of getting into the South Seas ; and he had plaid ſuch tricks among the Caribbee Iſles, as I have been informed, that he did not dare to ap- pear at any of the Engliſh Iſlands. Therefore he per- ſwaded his Men to go to the Spaniards, and they con- ſented to do any thing that he ſhould propoſe : ſo he preſently ſteered away into the Weſt Indies, and the firſt place where he came to an anchor was at Portobel. He preſently declared to the Governour, that there were Engliſh Ships coming into the South Seas, and that if they queſtioned it, he offered to be kept a Priſoner till time ſhould diſcover the truth of what he ſaid ; but they believed him, and ſent him away to Panama, where he was in great eſteem. This ſeveral Priſoners told us. [---+++] The Spaniards of Panama could not have fitted out their Fireſhip without this Captain Bond's aſſiſtance : for it is ſtrange to ſay, how groſsly igno- rant the Spaniards in the Weſt Indies, but eſpecially in the South Seas, are of Sea-affairs. They build indeed good Ships ; but this is a ſmall matter : for any Ship of a good bottom will ſerve for theſe Seas on the South Coaſt. They rig their Ships but untowardly, have no Guns, but in 3 or 4 of the Kings Ships ; and are as meanly furniſhed with Warlike Proviſions, and as much at a loſs for the making any Fireſhips, or other 191 An.1685 More Privateers arrive. lefs ufual Machines. Nay they have not the fence to have their Guns run within the fides upon their dif- charge, but have Platforms without for the Men to ftand on to charge them; fo that when we come near we can fetch them down with fmall fhot out of our Boats. A main reafon of this is, that the Native Spa- niards are too proud to be Seamen, but ufe the Indians for all thofe Offices: one Spaniard, it may be, going in the Ship to command it, and himfelf of little more knowledge than thofe poor ignorant creatures: nor can they gain much Experience, feldom going far off to Sea, but coafting along the fhores. [---+++] But to proceed: In the morning when it was light we came again to an anchor clofe by our Buoys, and ftrove to get our Anchors again ; but our Buoy-Ropes being rotten, broke. While we were puzzling about our Anchors, we faw a great many Canoas full of Men pafs between Tabago and the other Ifland. This put us into a new confternation : we lay ftill fome time, till we faw that they came directly towards us, then we weighed and ftood towards them : and when we came within hale, we found that they were Englifh and French Privateers come out of the North Seas through the Ifthmus of Darien. They were 280 Men, in 28 Canoas ; 200 of them French, the reft Englifh. They were commanded by Captain Gronet, and Captain Lequie. We prefently came to an Anchor again, and all the Canoas came aboard. Thefe Men told us, that there were 180 Englifh Men more, un- der the Command of Captain Townley, in the Coun- try of Darien, making Canoas (as thefe Men had been) to bring them into thefe Seas. All the Englifh Men that came over in this Party were immediately enter- tain'd by Captain Davis and Captain Swan in their own Ships; and the French Men were ordered to have our Flower Prize to carry them, and Captain Gronet being the eldeft Commander was to command them there ; and thus they were all difpofed of to their hearts [+++---]192 An.1685 French Commiffions to Privateers. hearts content. Captain Gronet, to retalliate this kind- nefs, offered Captain Davis and Captain Swan, each of them a new Commiffion from the Governor of Petit Guavres. It has been ufual for many years paft, for the Governor of Petit Guavres to fend blank Com- miffions to Sea by many of his Captains, with orders to difpofe of them to whom they faw convenient. Thofe of Petit-Guavres by this means making them- felves the Sanctuary and Afylum of all People of de- fperate Fortunes ; and increafing their own Wealth, and the Strength and Reputation of their Party thereby. Captain Davis accepted of one, having be- fore only an old Commiffion, which fell to him by Inheritance at the deceafe of Captain Cook; who took it from Captain Thriftian, together with his Bark, as is before mentioned. But Captain Swan re- fufed it, faying he had an order from the Duke of York, neither to give offence to the Spaniards, nor to receive any affront from them; and that he had been injured by them at Baldivia, where they had kill'd fome of his Men, and wounded feveral more; fo that he thought he had a lawful Commiffion of his own to right himfelf. I never read any of thefe French Commiffions while I was in thefe Seas, nor did I then know the import of them : but I have learnt fince, that the Tenour of them is, to give a Liberty to fifh, fowl, and hunt. The occafion of this is, that the Ifland of Hifpaniola, where the Garrifon of Petit- Guavres is, belongs partly to the French, and partly to the Spaniards ; and in time of Peace thefe Commiffi- ons are given as a Warrant to thofe of each fide to protect them from the adverfe Party: but in effect the French do not reftrain them to Hifpaniola, but make them a pretence for a general ravage in any part of America, by Sea or Land. [---+++] Having thus difpofed of our Affociates, we intend- ed to fail towards the Gulf of St. Michael, to feek Captain Townley; who by this time we thought might [+++---]193 An.1685 Gulf of St. Michael. might be entring into thefe Seas. Accordingly the fecond day of March, 1685. we fail'd from hence towards the Gulf of St. Michael. This Gulf lyes near 30 leagues from Panama, toward the S. E. The way thither from Panama is, to pafs between the Kings Iflands and the Main. It is a place where many great Rivers having finifhed their courfes are fwallowed up in the Sea. It is bounded on the S. with Point Garachina, which lyeth in North lat. 6 d. 40 m. and on the North fide with Cape St. Lorenzo. Where, by the way, I muft correct a grofs error in our common Maps ; which giving no name at all to the South Cape, which yet is the moft confidera- ble, and is the true Point Garachina ; do give that name to the North Cape, which is of fmall remark, only for thofe whofe bufinefs is into the Gulf: and the name St. Lorenzo, which is the true name of this Northern Point, is by them wholly omitted ; the name of the other Point being fubftituted into its place. The chief Rivers which run into this Gulf of St. Michael, are Santa Maria, Sambo, and Congos. The River Congos (which is the River I would have perfwaded our men to have gone up, as their neareft way in our Journey over Land, mentioned Chap. 1.) comes directly out of the Country, and fwallows up many fmall Streams that fall into it from both fides; and at laft lofeth itfelf on the North fide of the Gulf, a league within Cape St. Lorenzo. It is not very wide, but deep, and navigable fome leagues within land. There are Sands without it ; but a Channel for Ships. 'Tis not made ufe of by the Spaniards, becaufe of the neighbourhood of Santa Maria River ; where they have moft bufinefs on ac- count of the Mines. [---+++] The River of Sambo feems to be a great River, for there is a great tyde at its mouth; but I can fay nothing more of it, having never been in it. This River falls into the Sea on the South fide of the Gulf, near [+++---]194 An.1685 River and Town of Santa Maria. near Point Garachina. Beyond the mouth of thefe 2 Rivers on either fide, the Gulf runs in towards the Land fomewhat narrower, and makes 5 or 6 fmall Iflands, which are cloathed with great Trees, green and flourifhing all the year, and good Channels be- tween the Iflands. Beyond which further in ftill, the fhore on each fide clofes fo near, with 2 Points of low Mangrove Land, as to make a narrow or ftreight, fcarce half a mile wide. This ferves as a mouth or entrance to the inner part of the Gulf, which is a deep Bay 2 or 3 leagues over every way, and about the Eaft end thereof are the mouths of feveral Rivers, the chief of which is that of Santa Maria. There are many outlets or Creeks befides this narrow place I have defcribed, but none navi- gable befide that. For this reafon, the Spanifh Guard- Ship, mention'd in Chap. 1. chofe to lye between thefe two Points, as the only paffage they could imagine we fhould attempt ; fince this is the way that the Privateers have generally taken, as the neareft, between the North and South Seas. The River of Santa Maria is the largeft of all the Rivers of this Gulf: It is navigable 8 or 9 leagues up; for fo high the tyde flows. Beyond that place the Ri- ver is divided into many Branches, which are only fit for Canoas. The tyde rifes and falls in this River about 18 foot. [---+++] About 6 leagues from the Rivers mouth, on the South fide of it, the Spaniards about 20 years ago, upon their firft difcovery of the Gold Mines here, built the Town Santa Maria, of the fame name with the River. This Town was taken by Captain Coxon, Captain Harris, and Captain Sharp, at their entrance into thefe Seas; it being then but newly built. Since that time it is grown confiderable; for when Cap- tain Harris, the Nephew of the former, took it (as is faid in Chap. 6.) he found in it all forts of Trades- men, with a great deal of Flower, and Wine, and abun- [+++---]195 An.1685 The Gold Mines of Santa Maria abundance of Iron Crows and Pickaxes. Thefe were Inftruments for the Slaves to work in the Gold Mines ; for befides what Gold and Sand they take up together, they often find great lumps, wedg'd be- tween the Rocks, as if it naturally grew there. I have feen a lump as big as a Hens Egg, brought by Cap- tain Harris from thence, (who took 120 pound there) and he told me that there were lumps a great deal bigger : but thefe they were forc'd to beat in pieces that they might divide them. Thefe lumps are not fo folid, but that they have crevifes and pores full of Earth and Duft. This Town is not far from the Mines, where the Spaniards keep a great many Slaves to work in the dry time of the year: but in the rainy feafon when the Rivers do overflow, they cannot work fo well. Yet the Mines are fo nigh the mountains, that as the Rivers foon rife, fo they are foon down again ; and prefently after the rain is the beft fearching for Gold in the Sands: for the violent rains do wafh down the Gold into the Ri- vers, where much of it fettles to the bottom and re- mains. Then the Native Indians who live here- abouts get moft; and of them the Spaniards buy more Gold than their Slaves get by working. I have been told that they get the value of 5 Shillings a day, one with another. The Spaniards withdraw moft of them with their Slaves, during the wet feafon, to Panama. At this Town of St. Maria, Captain Townley was lying with his Party, making Canoas, when Captain Gronet came into the Seas; for it was then abandoned by the Spaniards. [---+++] There is another fmall new Town at the mouth of the River called the Scuchaderoes: It ftands on the North fide of the open place, at the mouth of the River of St. Maria, where there is more air than at the Mines, or at Santa Mara Town, where they are in a manner ftifled with heat for want of air. [+++---]196 An.1685 A Prize of two Barks. All about thefe Rivers, efpecially near the Sea, the Land is low, it is deep black Earth, and the Trees it produceth are extraordinary large and high. Thus much concerning the Gulf of St. Michael, whi- t' er we were bound. [---+++] The fecond day of March, as is faid before, we weighed from Perico, and the fame night we anchored again at Pacheque. The third day we failed from thence, fteering towards the Gulf. Captain Swan undertook to fetch off Captain Townly and his Men: therefore he kept near the Main; but the reft of the Ships ftood nearer the Kings Iflands. Captain Swan defired this office, becaufe he intended to fend Let- ters over-land by the Indians to Jamaica, which he did; ordering the Indians to deliver his Letters to any Englifh Veffel in the other Seas. At 2 a clock we were again near the place where we clean'd our Ships. There we faw two Ships coming out, who pro v d to be Captain Townly and his Men. They were coming out of the River in the night, and took 2 Barks bound for Panama: the one was laden with Flower, the other with Wine, Brandy, Sugar, and Oyl. The Prifoners that he took declared, that that the Lima Fleet was ready to fail. We went and anchored among the Kings Iflands, and the next day Captain Swan returned out of the River of Santa Maria, being informed by the Indians, that Captain Townley was come over to the Kings Iflands. At this place Captain Townley put out a great deal of his Goods to make room for his Men. He diftributed his Wine and Brandy, fore to every Ship, that it might be drunk out; becaufe he wanted the Jars to carry Water in. The Spaniards in thefe Seas carry all their Wine, Brandy, and Oyl in Jars that hold 7 or 8 Gallons. When they lade at Pifco (a place a- bout 40 leagues to the Southward of Lima, and fa- mous for Wine) they bring nothing elfe but Jars of Wine, and they ftow one tier on the top of another fo [+++---]197 An.1685 News of more Privateers coming. fo artificially, that we could hardly do the like without breaking them: yet they often carry in this manner 1500 or 2000, or more in a Ship, and feldom break one. The 10th day we took a fmall Bark that came from Guiaquil: fhe had nothing in her her but Ballaft. The 12th day there came an In- dian Canoa out of the River of Santa Maria, and told us, that there were 300 Englifh and French men more coming over Land from the North Seas. The 15th day we met a Bark, with 5 or 6 Englifh men in her, that belonged to Captain Knight, who had been in the South Seas 5 or 6 months, and was now on the Mexican Coaft. There he had fpied this Bark; but not being able to come up with her in his Ship, he detach'd thefe 5 or 6 Men in a Canoa, who took her, but when they had done could not recover their own Ship again, lofing company with her in the night; and therefore they came into the Bay of Panama, intending to go over land back into the North Seas, but that they luckily met with us: for the Ifthmus of Darien was now become a common Road for Privateers to pafs between the North and South Seas at their pleafure. This Bark of Captain Knight's had in her 40 or 50 Jars of Brandy: fhe was now commanded by Mr. Henry More; but Captain Swan, intending to promote Captain Harris, caufed Mr. More to be turned out, alledging that it was very likely thefe Men were run away from their Com- mander. Mr. More willingly refigned her, and went aboard of Captain Swan, and became one of his Men. [---+++] It was now the latter end of the dry feafon here; and the Water at the Kings, or Pearl Ilands, (of which there was plenty when we firft came hither) was now dried away. Therefore we were forced to go to Point Garachina, thinking to water our Ships there. Captain Harris, being now Com- mander of the new Bark, was fent into the River of [+++---]198 Porto Pinas. An.1685 of Santa Maria, to fee for thofe Men that the Indi- ans told us of, whilft the reft of the Ships failed to- wards Point Garachina; where we arriv'd the 21ft day, and anchored 2 mile from the Point, and found a ftrong Tide running out of the River Sambo. The next day we run within the Point, and anchored in 4 fathom at low water. The Tide rifeth here 8 or 9 foot: the Flood fets N. N. E. the Ebb S. S. W. The Indians that inhabit in the River Sambo came to us in Canoas, and brought Plan- tains and Bonanoes. They could not fpeak, nor underftand Spanifh; therefore I believe they have no Commerce with the Spaniards. We found no frefh Water here neither; fo we went from hence to Port Pinas, which is 7 leagues S. by W. from hence. [---+++] Porto Pinas lieth in lat. 7 d. North. It is fo called becaufe there are many Pine-trees growing there. The Land is pretty high, rifing gently as it runs in- to the Country. This Country near the Sea is all covered with pretty high Woods: the Land that bounds the Harbor is low in the middle, but high and rocky at both fides. At the mouth of the Har- bor there are 2 fmall high Iflands, or rather barren Rocks. The Spaniards in their Pilot Books com- mend this for a good Harbour; but it lieth all o- pen to the S. W. Winds, which frequently blow here in the wet feafon: befides, the Harbor with- in the Iflands is a place of but fmall extent, and hath a very narrow going in; what depth of Wa- ter there is in the Harbor I know not. [---+++] The 25th day we arrived at this Harbor of Pines, but did not go in with our Ships, find- ing it but an ordinary place to lye at. We fent in our Boats to fearch it, and they found a ftream of good Water running into the Sea: but there were fuch great fwelling furges came into the Harbor, that we could not conveniently fill our Water there. [+++---]199 Bay of Panama. The 26th day we returned to Point Garachina again. An.1685 In our way we took a fmall Veffel laden with Cacao: fhe came from Guiaquil. The 29th day we arrived at Point Garachina. There we found Cap- tain Harris, who had been in the River of Santa Maria ; but he did not meet the Men that he went for. Yet he was informed again by the Indians, that they were making Canoas in one of the branches of the River of Santa Maria. Here we fhared our Cacao lately taken. [---+++] Becaufe we could not fill our Water here, we de- figned to go to Tabago again, where we were fure to be fupplied. Accordingly, on the 30th day we fet fail, being now 9 Ships in company; and had a fmall Wind at S.S.E. The firft day of April, being in the Channel between the Kings Iflands and the Main, we had much Thunder, Lightning, and fome Rain: This evening we anchored at the Ifland Pacheque, and immediately fent 4 Canoas before us to the Ifland Tabago, to take fome Prifo- ners for information, and we followed the next day. The 3d day in the evening we anchored by Perica, and the next morning went to Tabago: where we found our 4 Canoas. They arrived there in the night, and took a Canoa that came (as is ufual) from Panama for Plantains. There were in the Canoa 4 Indians and a Mulata. The Mulata, be- caufe he faid he was in the Firefhip that came to burn us in the night, was immediately hang'd. Thefe Prifoners confirmed, that one Captain Bond, an Englifh man, did command her. [---+++] Here we fill'd our Water, and cut Fire-wood ; and from hence we fent 4 Canoas over to the Main, with one of the Indians lately taken to guide them to a Sugar-work; for now we had Cacao we wanted Sugar to make Chocolate. But the chief- eft of their bufinefs was to get Coppers; for each Ship having now fo many Men, our Pots would [+++---]200 Ifle of Otoque. An.1685 not boil Victuals faft enough, though we kept them boiling all the day. About 2 or 3 days after they returned aboard with 3 Coppers. [---+++] While we lay here Captain Davis his Bark went to the Ifland Otoque. This is another inhabited Ifland in the Bay of Panama, not fo big as Tabago, yet there are good Plantain Walks on it, and fome Negroes to look after them. Thefe Negroes rear Fowls and Hogs for their Mafters, who live at Pa- nama ; as at the Kings Iflands. It was for fome Fowls or Hogs that our Men went thither; but by acci- dent they met alfo with an Exprefs, that was fent to Panama with an account, that the Lima Fleet was at Sea. Moft of the Letters were thrown over board and loft ; yet we found fome that faid pofi- tively, that the Fleet was coming with all the ftrength that they could make in the Kingdom of Peru; yet were ordered not to fight us, except they were forced to it: (though afterwards they chofe to fight us, having firft landed their Treafure at Lavelia) and that the Pilots of Lima had been in confultation what courfe to fteer to mifs us. [---+++] For the fatisfaction of thofe who may be curious to know, I have here inferted the Refolutions taken by the Commitee of Pilots, as one of our company tranflated them, out of the Spanifh of two of the Letters we took. The firft Letter as fol- lows. [---+++] S I R, Having been with his Excellency, and heard the Let- ter of Captain Michael Sanches de Tena read ; wherein he fays, there fhould be a meeting of the Pilots of Panama in the faid City, they fay 'tis not time, putting for objection the Gallapagoes; to which I answered, that it was fear of the Enemy, and that they might well go that way. I told this to his Excellency, who was pleafed to command me to write the Courfe, which is as follows. 201 An.1685 The Spanish Fleets Sailing Orders. The day for sailing being come, go forth to the West South West; from that to West till you are forty leagues off at Sea; then keep at the same distance to the N. W. till you come under the Line: from whence the Pilot must shape his Course for Moro de Porco, and for the Coast of La- velia and Natta: where you may speak with the people, and according to the information they give you may keep the same Course for Otoque, from thence to Tabago, and so to Panama: this is what offers as to the Course. [---+++] The Letter is obscure: but the Reader must make what he can of it. The Directions in the other Letter were to this Effect. [---+++] T HE surest Course to be observed going forth from Malabrigo, is thus: you must sail W. by S. that you may avoid the sight of the Islands of Lobos; and if you should chance to see them, by reason of the Breezes, and should fall to Leeward of the Lat. of Malabrigo, keep on a Wind as near as you can, and if necessary, go about, and stand in for the shore: then tack and stand off, and be sure keep your Latitude; and when you are 40 leagues to the Westward of the Islands Lobos, keep that distance, till you come under the Line; and then, if the general Wind follows you farther, you must sail N. N. E. till you come into 3 degrees North. And if in this Lat. you should find the breezes, make it your business to keep the Coast, and so sail for Panama. If in your course you should come in sight of the Land before you are abreast of Cape St. Francisco, be sure to stretch off again out of sight of Land, that you may not be discovered by the Ene- my. [---+++] The last Letter supposes the Fleet's setting out from Malabrigo, in about 8 deg. South Lat. (as the other doth its going immediately from Lima, 4 deg. further South) and from hence is that caution given of avoiding Lobos, as near Malabrigo in their usual [+++---] 202 An.1685 Chepelio a pleasant Isle. Sapadillo-tree. usual way to Panama, and hardly to be kept out of fight, as the Winds are thereabouts: yet to be avoid- ed by the Spanish Fleet at this time, because as they had twice before heard of the Privateers lying at Lobos de la Mar, they knew not but at that time we might be there in expectation of them. [---+++] The 10th day we sailed from Tabago towards the Kings Islands again, because our Pilots told us, that the Kings Ships did always come this way. The 11th day we anchored at the place where we ca- reen'd. Here we found Captain Harris, who had gone a second time into the River of Santa Maria, and fetched the body of Men that last came over land, as the Indians had informed us: but they fell short of the number they told us of. The 19th day we sent 250 Men in 15 Canoas to the River Cheapo, to take the Town of Cheapo. The 21st day all our Ships, but Captain Harris, who staid to clean his Ship, followed after. The 22d day we arrived at the Island Chepelio. [---+++] Chepelio is the pleasantest Island in the Bay of Pa- nama: It is but 7 leagues from the City of Panama, and a league from the Main. This Island is about 2 mile long, and almost so broad; it is low on the North side, and riseth by a small ascent towards the South side. The Soil is yellow, a kind of clay. The high side is stony; the low Land is planted with all sorts of delicate Fruits, viz. Sapadilloes, Avogato-pears, Mammees, Mammree-Sappota's, Star-apples, &c. The middle of the Island is plant- ed with Plantain Trees, which are not very large, but the Fruit extraordinary sweet. [---+++] The Sapadillo Tree is as big as a large Pear-tree. The Fruit much like a Bergamo-pear, both in co- lour, shape and size; but on some Trees the Fruit is a little longer. When it is green or first gathered, the juice is white and clammy, and it will stick like glew; then the Fruit is hard, but after it hath been gathered [+++---] 203 An.1685 Avogato Pear. Mammee Sappota-tree. gathered 2 or 3 days, it grows soft and juicy, and then the juice is clear as Spring-water, and very sweet: In the midst of the Fruit are 2 or 3 black stones or feeds, about the bigness of the Pumkin seed. This is an excellent Fruit. [---+++] The Avogato Pear-tree is as big as most Pear-trees, and is commonly pretty high; the skin or bark black and pretty smooth; the leaves large, of an oval shape, and the Fruit as big as a large Lemon. It is of a green colour, till it is ripe, and then it is a little yellowish. They are seldom fit to eat till they have been gathered 2 or 3 days; then they become soft, and the skin or rind will peel off. The substance in the inside is green, or a little yel- lowish, and as soft as Butter. Within the substance there is a stone as big as a Horse-plumb. This Fruit hath no taste of its self, and therefore 'tis usu- ally mixt with Sugar and Lime-juice, and beaten together in a Plate, and this is an excellent dish. The ordinary way is to eat it with a little Salt and a rosted Plantain, and thus a man that's hungry, may make a good meal of it. It is very wholsome eaten any way. It is reported that this Fruit provokes to lust, and therefore is said to be much esteemed by the Spaniards; and I do believe they are much esteemed by them, for I have met with plenty of them in many places in the North Seas, where the Spaniards are settled, as in the Bay of Campechy, on the Coast of Cartagena, and the Coast of Carraccos; and there are some in Jamaica, which were planted by the Spaniards, when they possessed that Island. [---+++] The Mammee-Sappota Tree is different from the Mammee described at the Isle of Tabago in this Chapter. It is not so big or so tall, neither is the Fruit so big or so round. The rind of the Fruit is thin and brittle; the inside is a deep red, and it has a rough flat long stone. This is accounted the prin- cipal [+++---] 204 An.1685 Wild Mammee. Star-apple. Cheapo River. cipal Fruit of the West Indies. It is very pleasant and wholsome. I have not seen any of these on Jamai- ca; but in many places in the West Indies among the Spaniards. There is another sort of Mammee- tree, which is called the wild Mammee: This bears a Fruit which is of no value, but the Tree is straight, tall, and very tough, and therefore prin- cipally used for making Masts. [---+++] The Star Apple Tree grows much like the Quince Tree, but much bigger. It is full of leaves, and the leaf is broad, of an oval shape, and of a very dark green colour. The Fruit is as big as a large Apple, which is commonly so covered with leaves, that a man can hardly see it. They say this is a good Fruit; I did never taste any, but have seen both of the Trees and Fruit in many places on the Main, on the North side of the Continent, and in Jamaica. When the Spaniards possess that Island they planted this and other sorts of Fruit, as the Sapadillo, Avogato Pear, and the like; and of these Fruits there is still in Jamaica in those Planta- tions that were first settled by the Spaniards, as at the Angels, at 7 mile Walk, and 16 mile Walk. There I have seen these Trees which were planted by the Spaniards, but I did never see any improvement made by the English, who seem in that little cu- rious. The Road for Ships is on the North side, where there is good anchoring half a mile from the shore. There is a Well close by the Sea on the North side, and formerly there were 3 or 4 Houses close by it, but now they are destroyed. This Island stands right against the mouth of the River Cheapo. [---+++] The River Cheapo springs out of the Mountains near the North side of the Country, and it being penn'd up on the South side by other Mountains, bends its course to the Westward between both, till finding a passage on the S. W. it makes a kind of a half circle: and being swell'd to a considera- ble [+++---] 205 An.1685 Cheapo Town. ble bigness, it runs with a flow motion into the Sea, 7 leagues from Panama. This River is very deep and about a quarter of a mile broad: but the mouth of it is choaked up with Sands, so that no Ships can enter, but Barks may. There is a small Spanish Town of the same name within 6 leagues of the Sea: it stands on the left hand going from the Sea. This is it which I faid Captain La Sound attempted. The Land about it is champion, with many small Hills cloathed with Weeds; but the biggest part of the Country is Savannah. On the South side of the River it is all wood-land for many leagues together. It was to this Town that our 250 Men were sent. The 24th day they returned out of the River, ha- ving taken the Town without any opposition: but they found nothing in it. By the way going thi- ther they took a Canoa, but most of the Men escaped ashore upon one of the Kings Islands: She was sent out well appointed with armed Men to watch our motion. The 25th day Captain Harris came to us, having cleaned his Ship. The 26th day we went again toward Tabago; our Fleet now, upon Captain Harris joining us again, consisted of 10 Sail. We arrived at Tabago the 28th day: there our Prisoners were examined concerning the strength of Panama; for now we thought our selves strong enough for such an Enterprize, being near 1000 Men. Out of these, on occasion, we could have landed 900: but our Prisoners gave us small Encouragement to it, for they assured us, that all the strength of the Country was there, and that many Men were come from Portobel, besides its own Inhabitants, who of themselves were more in number than we. These reasons, together with the strength of the place (which hath a high Wall) deterr'd us from attempting it. While we lay here at Tabago some of our men burnt the Town on the Island. [+++---] 206 An.1685 Isle of Pacheque. The 4th of May we sailed hence again bound for the Kings Islands; and there we continu'd cruising from one end of these Islands to the other: till on the 22d day Captain Davis and Captain Gronet went to Pacheque, leaving the rest of the Fleet at anchor at St. Pauls Island. From Pacheque we sent 2 Canoas to the Island Chepelio, in hopes to get a Prisoner there. The 25th day our Canoas return'd from Che- pelio, with three Prisoners which they took there: They were Sea-men belonging to Panama, who said that provision was so scarce and dear there, that the poor were almost starved; being hindered by us from those common and daily supplies of Plantains, which they did formerly injoy from the Islands; especially from those two of Chepelio and Tabago. That the President of Panama had strictly ordered, that none should adventure to any of the Islands for Plantains: but necessity had obliged them to trespass against the President's Order. They far- ther reported, that the Fleet from Lima was ex- pected every day; for it was generally talked that they were come from Lima: and that the report at Panama was, that King Charles 2d of England was dead, and that the Duke of York was crowned King. The 27th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly al- so came to Pacheque, where we lay: but Captain Swan s Bark was gone in among the Kings Islands for Plantains. The Island Pacheque, as I have before related, is the northermost of the Kings Islands. It is a small low Island about a league round. On the South side of it there are 2 or 3 small Islands, nei- ther of them half a mile round. Between Pacheque and these Islands is a small channel not above 6 or 7 paces wide, and about a mile long. Through this Captain Townly made a bold run, being preft hard by the Spaniards in the fight Iam going to speak of, though he was ignorant whether there was a sufficient depth of Water or not. On the East side of [+++---] 207 An.1685 Spanish Fleet from Lima: their Strength. of thiss Channel all our Fleet lay waiting for the Lima Fleet, which we were in hopes would come this way. [---+++] The 28th day we had a very wet morning, for the Rains were come in, as they do usually in May, or June, sooner or later; so that May is here a very uncertain month. Hitherto, till within a few days, we had had good fair weather, and the Wind at N. N. E. but now the weather was altered, and the Wind at S. S. W. [---+++] However about eleven a clock it cleared up, and we saw the Spanish Fleet about 3 leagues W. N. W. from the Island Pacheque, standing close on a Wind to the Eastward; but they could not fetch the Island by a league. We were riding a league S. E. from the Island, between it and the Main; only Captain Gronet was about a mile to the Northward of us near the Island: he weighed so soon as they came in fight, and stood over for the Main; and we lay still, expecting when he would tack and come to us: but he took care to keep himself out of harms way. [---+++] Captain Swan and Townly came aboard of Cap- tain Davis to order how to engage the Enemy, who we saw came purposely to fight us, they being in all 14 Sail, besides Periagoes, rowing with 12 and 14 Oars apiece. Six Sail of them were Ships of good force: first the Admiral 48 Guns, 450 Men; the Vice-Admiral 42 Guns, 400 Men; the Rear- Admiral 36 Guns, 360 Men; a Ship of 24 Guns, 300 Men; one of 18 Guns, 250 Men; and one of eight Guns, 200 Men; 2 great Fireships, 6 Ships only with small Arms, having 800 Men on board them all; besides 2 or 3 hundred Men in Periagoes. This account of their strength we had afterwards from Captain Knight, who being to the Windward on the Coast of Peru, took Prisoners, of whom he had this information, being what they brought from [+++---] 208 An.1685 The Privateers Strength. from Lima. Besides these Men, they had also some hundreds of Old Spain Men that came from Portobel, and met them at Lavelia, from whence they now came: and their strength of Men from Lima was 3000 Men, being all the strength they could make in that Kingdom; and for greater security they had first landed their Treasure at Lavelia. [---+++] Our Fleet consisted of 10 Sail: first Captain Da- vis 36 Guns, 156 Men, most English; Captain Swan 16 Guns, 140 Men, all English: These were the only Ships of force that we had; the rest having none but small Arms. Captain Townly had 110 men, all English. Captain Gronet 308 men, all French. Captain Harris 100 men, most English. Captain Branly 36 men; some English some French. Davis his Tender 8 men; Swans Tender 8 men; Townlys Bark 80 men; and a small Bark of thirty Tuns made a Fireship, with a Canoas crew in her. We had in all 960 men. But Captain Gronet came not to us till all was over, yet we were not dif- couraged at it, but resolved to fight them; for be- ing to Windward of the Enemy, we had it at our choice, whether we would fight or not. It was 3 a clock in the afternoon when we weighed, and being all under fail, we bore down right afore the wind on our Enemies, who kept close on a wind to come to us; but night came on without any thing, beside the exchanging of a few shot on each side. When it grew dark the Spanish Admiral put out a light, as a signal for his Fleet to come to an Anchor. We saw the light in the Admiral's top, which continued about half an hour, and then it was taken down. In a short time after we saw the light again, and being to Windward we kept under fail, supposing the light had been in the Ad- mirals top; but as it proved, this was only a stra- tagem of theirs; for this light was put out the se- cond time at one of their Barks Topmast-head, and then [+++---] 209 An.1685 A Sea Fight. then she was sent to Leeward; which deceived us: for we thought still the Light was in the Admirals top, and by that means thought ourselves to wind- ward of them. [---+++] In the morning therefore, contrary to our ex- pectation, we found they had got the Weather-gage of us, and were coming upon us with full Sail: so we ran for it, and after a running Fight all day, and having taken a turn almost round the Bay of Panama, we came to an anchor again at the Isle of Pacheque, in the very same place from whence we set out in the morning. [---+++] Thus ended this days work, and with it all that we had been projecting for 5 or 6 months: when instead of making our selves Masters of the Spanish Fleet and Treasure, we were glad to escape them; and owed that too, in a great measure, to their want of courage to pursue their advantage. [---+++] The 20th day in the morning when we looked out we saw the Spanish Fleet all together 3 leagues to Leeward of us at an anchor. It was but little wind till 10 a clock, and then sprung up a small breeze at South, and the Spanish Fleet went away to Panama. What loss they had I know not; we lost but one Man: and having held a consult, we re- solved to go to the Keys of Quibo or Cobaya, to seek Captain Harris, who was forced away from us in the Fight: that being the place appointed for our Rendezvous upon any such accident. As for Gronet, he said his Men would not suffer him to join us in the Fight: but we were not satisfied with that ex- cuse; so we suffer'd him to go with us to the Isles of Quibo, and there cashier'd our cowardly Campani- on. Some were for taking from him the Ship which we had given him: but at length he was suffered to keep it with his Men, and we sent them away in it to some other place. [---+++] CHAP.