[ch8 is page 210-236] 210 An.1685 C H A P. VIII: [---+++] They set out from Tabago. Isle of Chuche. The Mountain called Moro de Porcos. The Coast to the Westward of the Bay of Panama. Isles of Quibo, Quicaro, Rancheria. The Palma- Maria-tree. The Isles Canales and Cantarras. They build Canoas for a New Expedition; and take Puebla Nova. Captain Knight joins them. Canoas how made. The Coast and Winds between Quibo and Nicoya. Volcan Vejo again. Tornadoes. and the Sea rough. Ria Lexa Harbour. The City of Leon taken and burnt. Ria Lexa Creek; the Town and Commodities: the Guava-fruit, and Prickle- Pear: A Ransom paid honourably upon Pa- role: The Town burnt. Captain Davis and others go off for the South Coast. A contagi- ous Sickness at Ria Lexa. Terrible Tornadoes. The Volcan of Guatimala: the rich Commodi- ties of that Country, Indico, Otta or Anatta, Cochineel, Silvester. Drift Wood, and Pu- mice Stones. The Coast further on to the North- west. Captain Townley's fruitless Expedi- tion towards Tecoantepeque. The Island Tangola, and neighbouring Continent. Gua- tulco Port. The Buffadore, or Water spout. Ruins of Guatulco Village. The Coast ad- joining. Captain Townly marches to the Ri- ver Capalita. Turtle at Guatulco. An Indian Settlement. The Vinello Plant and Fruit. [---+++] A Ccording to the Resolutions we had taken, we set out June the 1st, 1685. passing be- tween [+++---] 11 An. 1685 Ifle Chuche. Moro de Porcos. tween Point Garachina and the Kings Ilands. The Wind was at S. S. W. rainy weather, with Torna- does of Thunder and Lightning. The 3d day we paffed by the Ifland Chuche, the laft remainder of the Ifles in the Bay of Panama. This is a fmall, low, round, woody Ifland, uninhabited; lying 4 leagues S. S. W. from Pacheca. [---+++] In our paffage to Quibo Captain Branly loft his Main-Maft; therefore he and all his Men left his Bark, and came aboard Captain Davis his Ship. Captain Swan alfo fprung his Maintop Maft, and got up another; but while he was doing it, and we were making the beft of our way, we loft fight of him, and were now on the North fide of the Bay; for this way all Ships muft pafs from Panama, whether bound towards the Coaft of Mexico or Peru. The 10th day we paffed by Moro de Porcos, or the Mountain of Hogs. Why fo called I know not: it is a high round Hill on the Coaft of Lavelia. [---+++] This fide of the Bay of Panama runs out wefterly to the Iflands of Quibo; there are on this Coaft ma- ny Rivers and Creeks, but none fo large as thofe on the South fide of the Bay. It is a Coaft that is partly mountainous, partly low land, and very thick of Woods bordering on the Sea; but a few leagues within land it confifts moftly of Savannahs, which are ftock'd with Bulls and Cows. The Ri- vers on this fide are not wholly deftitute of Gold, though not fo rich as the Rivers on the other fide of the Bay. The Coaft is but thinly inhabited; for except the Rivers that lead up to the Towns of Nata and Lavelia, I know of no other Settlement between Panama and Puebla Nova. The Spaniards may travel by land from Panama through all the Kingdom of Mexico, as being full of Savannahs; but towards the Coaft of Peru they cannot pafs fur- ther than the River Cheapo; the Land there being fo full of thick Woods, and watered with fo many great [+++---] 212 An. 1685 The Ifles of Quibo. Palma-Maria Tree. great Rivers, befides lefs Rivers and Creeks, that the Indians themfelves who inhabit there cannot travel far without much trouble. [---+++] We met with very wet weather in our Voyage to Quibo; and with S. S. W. and fometimes S. W. Winds, which retarded our courfe. It was the 15th day of June when we arrived at Quibo, and found there Captain Harris whom we fought. The Ifland Quibo or Cabaya is in lat. 7 d. 14 m. North of the Equator. It is about 6 or 7 leagues long, and 3 or 4 broad. The Land is low, except only near the N. E. end. It is all over plentifully ftored with great tall flourifhing Trees of many forts; and there is good water on the Eaft and North Eaft fides of the Ifland. Here are fome Deer, and plenty of pretty large black Monkies, whofe Flefh is fweet and wholefome: befides a few Guanoes, and fome Snakes. I know no other fort of Land Animal on the Ifland. There is a fhole runs out from the S. E. point of the Ifland, half a mile into the Sea; and a league to the North of this fhole point, on the Eaft fide, there is a Rock about a mile from the fhore, which at the laft quarter ebb appears above Water. Befides thefe two places there is no dan- ger on this fide, but Ships may run within a quar- ter of a mile of the fhore, and anchor in 6, 8, 10, or 12 fathom, good clean Sand and Oaze. [---+++] There are many other Iflands lying fome on the S. W. fide, others on the N. and N. E. fides of this Ifland; as the Ifland Quicaro, which is a pretty large Ifland S. W. of Quibo, and on the North of it is a fmall Ifland called the Rancheria; on which Ifland are plenty of Palma-Maria Trees. The Palma- Maria is a tall ftraight-bodied Tree, with a fmall Head, but very unlike the Palm-tree, notwith- ftanding the Name. It is greatly efteemed for ma- king Mafts, being very tough, as well as of a good length; for the grain of the Wood runs not ftraight along [+++---] 213 An. 1685 Puebla Nova taken. along it, but twifting gradually about it. Thefe Trees grow in many places of the Weft Indies, and are fre- quently ufed both by the Englifh and Spaniards there for that ufe. The Iflands Canales and Cantarras, are fmall Iflands lying on the N. E. of Rancheria. Thefe have all Channels to pafs between, and good an- choring about them; and they are as well ftored with Trees and Water as Quibo. Sailing without them all, they appear to be part of the Main. The Ifland Quibo is the largeft and moft noted; for al- though the reft have Names, yet they are feldor ufed only for diftinction fake: thefe, and the reft of this knot, paffing all under the common name of the Keys of Quibo. Captain Swan gave to feveral of thefe Iflands the Names of thofe Englifh Merchants and Gentlemen who were Owners of his Ship. [---+++] June 16th Captain Swan came to an anchor by us: and then our Captains confulted about new methods to advance their fortunes: and becaufe they were now out of hopes to get any thing at Sea, they refolved to try what the Land would afford. They demanded of our Pilots what Towns on the Coaft of Mexico they could carry us to. The City of Leon being the chiefeft in the Country (any thing near us) though a pretty way within Land, was pitcht on. But now we wanted Canoas to land our Men, and we had no other way but to cut down Trees, and make as many as we had oc- cafion for: thefe Iflands affording plenty of large Trees fit for our purpofe. While this was doing we fent 150 Men to take Puebla Nova (a Town upon the Main near the innermoft of thefe Iflands) to get Provifion: It was in going to take this Town that Captain Sawkins was killed, in the year 1680, who was fucceeded by Sharp. Our Men took the Town with much eafe; although there was more ftrength of Men than when Captain Sawkins was kill'd. They returned again the 24th day, but got no [+++---] 214 An. 1685 The manner of making Canoas. no Provifion there. They took an empty Bark in their way, and brought her to us. [---+++] The 5th day of July Captain Knight, mentioned in my laft Chapter, came to us. He had been crui- fing a great way to the Weftward, but got nothing befide a good Ship. At laft, he went to the South- ward, as high as the Bay of Guiaquil, where he took a Bark-log, or pair of Bark-logs as we call it, laden chiefly with Flower. She had other Goods, as Wine, Oyl, Brandy, Sugar, Soap, and Leather of Goats-skins; and he took out as much of each as he had occafion for, and then turned her away again. The Mafter of the Float told him, that the Kings Ships were gone from Lima towards Panama: that they carried but half the Kings Treafure with them, for fear of us, although they had all the ftrength that the Kingdom could afford: that all the Merchant Ships which fhould have gone with them were laden and lying at Payta, where they were to wait for further orders. Captain Knight having but few Men did not dare to go to Payta, where, if he had been better provided he might have taken them all; but he made the beft of his way into the Bay of Panama, in hopes to find us there inriched with the Spoils of the Lima Fleet; but coming to the Kings Iflands he had advice by a Prifoner, that we had ingaged with their Fleet, but were worfted, and fince that made our way to the Weftward; and therefore he came hither to feek us. He prefently conforted with us, and fet his Men to work to make Canoas. Every Ships company made for themfelves, but we all helped each other to launch them; for fome were made a mile from the Sea. [---+++] The manner of making a Canoa is, after cutting down a large long Tree, and fquaring the upper- moft fide, and then turning it upon the flat fide, to fhape the oppofite fide for the bottom. Then again they [+++---] 215 An. 1685 They fail from Quibo for Ria Lexa. they turn her, and dig the infide; boring alfo three holes in the bottom, one before, one in the middle, and one aloft, thereby to gage the thickeft of the bottom; for otherwife we might cut the bot- tom thinner than is convenient. We left the bot- toms commonly about 3 inches thick, and the fides 2 inches thick below, and one and an half at the top. One or both of the ends we fharpen to a point. [---+++] Captain Davis made two very large Canoas: one was 36 foot long, and 5 or 6 feet wide; the other 32 foot long, and near as wide as the other. In a months time we finifhed our bufinefs and were rea- dy to fail. Here Captain Harris went to lay his Ship aground to clean her, but fhe being old and rotten fell in pieces: and therefore he and all his Men went aboard of Captain Davis and Captain Swan. While we lay here we ftruck Turtle every day, for they were now very plentiful: but from Auguft to March here are not many. The 18th day of July, John Rofe, a Frenchman, and 14 Men more, belonging to Captain Gronet, having made a new Canoa, came in her to Captain Davis, and defired to ferve under him; and Captain Davis accepted of them, becaufe they had a Canoa of their own. [---+++] The 20th day of July we failed from Quibo, bend- ing our courfe for Ria Lexa, which is the Port for Leon, the City that we now defigned to attempt. We were now 640 men in 8 fail of Ships, Com- manded by Captain Davis, Captain Swan, Captain Townly, and Captain Knight, with a Firefhip and 3 Tenders, which laft had not a conftant crew. We paft out between the River Quibo and the Rancheria, leaving Quibo and Quicaro on our Larboard fide, and the Rancheria, with the reft of the Iflands, and the Main, on our Starboard fide. The Wind at firft was at South South Weft, Weft, We coafted along fhore paffing by the Gulf of Nicoya, the Gulf of Dulce, and by the Ifland Caneo. All this Coaft is low Land, [+++---] 216 An. 1685 Volcan Vejo. overgrown with thick Woods, and there are but few inhabitants near the fhore. As we failed to the Weftward we had variable winds, fometimes S. W. and at W. S. W. and fometimes at E. N. E. but we had them moft commonly at S. W.; we had a Tornado or two every day, and in the evening or in the night, we had land winds at N. N. E. [---+++] The 8th day of Auguft, being in the lat. of 11 d. 20 m. by obfervation, we faw a high Hill in the Country, towring up like a Sugar-loaf, which bore N. E. by N. We fuppofed it to be Volcan Vejo, by the fmoak which afcended from its top; therefore we fteered in North, and made it plainer, and then knew it to be that Volcan, which is the Sea-mark for the harbour for Ria Lexo; for, as I faid before, in Chapter the 5th, it is a very remarkable Moun- tain. When we had brought this Mountain to bear N. E. we got out all our Canoas, and provided to embark into them the next day. [---+++] The 9th day in the morning, being about 8 leagues from the fhore, we left our Ships under the charge of a few men, and 520 of us went away in 31 Canoas, rowing towards the Harbour of Ria Lexa. We had fair Weather and little Wind till 2 a clock in the afternoon, then we had a Tornado from the fhore, with much Thunder, Lightning and Rain, and fuch a guft of Wind, that we were all like to be founder d. In this extremity we put right afore the Wind, every Canoas crew making what fhift they could to avoid the threatning dan- ger. The fmall Canoas being moft light and buoyant, mounted nimbly over the Surges, but the great heavy Canoas lay like logs in the Sea, ready to be fwallowed by every foaming billow. Some of our Canoas were half full of water, yet kept two men conftantly heaving it out. The fiercenefs of the Wind continued about half an hour, and a- bated by degrees; and as the Wind died away; fo [+++---] 217 An. 1685 Tornadoes. the fury of the Sea abated: For in all hot Countries as I have obferved, the Sea is foon raifed by the Wind, and as foon down again when the Wind is gone, and therefore it is a proverb among the Sea- men, Up Wind, up Sea: Down Wind, down Sea. At 7 a clock in the evening it was quite calm, and the Sea as fmooth as a Mill-pond. Then we tugg'd to get into the fhore, but finding we could not do it before day, we rowed off again to keep our felves out of fight. By that time it was day, we were 5 leagues from the Land, which we thought was far enough off fhore. Here we intended to lye till the evening, but at 3 a clock in the afternoon we had another Tornado, more fierce than that which we had the day before. This put us in greater peril of our lives, but did not laft fo long. As foon as the violence of the Tornado was over, we rowed in for the fhore, and entered the Harbour in the night: The Creek which leads towards Leon, lieth on the S. E. fide of the Harbour. Our Pilot being very well acquainted here, carried us into the mouth of it, but could carry us no farther till day, becaufe it is but a fmall Creek, and there are other Creeks like it. The next morning as foon as it was light, we rowed into the Creek, which is very narrow; the Land on both fides lying fo low, that every tide it is overflown with the Sea. This fort of Land produceth red Mangrove-trees, which are here fo plentiful and thick, that there is no palling thro them. Beyond thefe Mangroves on the firm Land clofe by the fide of the River, the Spaniards have built a Breftwork, purpofely to hinder an Enemy from landing. When we came in fight of the Breftwork, we rowed as faft as we could to get afhore: The noife of our Oars allarmed the Indians who were fet to watch, and prefently they ran a- way towards the City of Leon, to give notice of our approach. We landed as foon as we could, and marched [+++---] 218 An. 1685 City of Leon, and Country adjacent. marched after them: 470 men were drawn out to march to the Town, and I was left with 59 men more to ftay and guard the Canoas till their return. [---+++] The City of Leon is 20 mile up in the Country: The way to it plain and even, through a champion Country, of long graffy Savannahs, and fpots of high Woods. About 5 mile from the landing place there is a Sugar work, 3 mile farther there is ano- ther, and 2 mile beyond that, there is a fine Ri- ver to ford, which is not very deep, befides which, there is no water in all the way, till you come to an Indian Town, which is 2 mile before you come to the City, and from thence it is a pleafant ftraight fandy way to Leon. This City ftands in a plain not far from a high peeked Mountain, which oftentimes cafts forth fire and fmoak from its top. It may be feen at Sea, and it is called the Volcan of Leon. The Houfes of Leon are not high built, but ftrong and large, with Gardens about them. The Walls are Stone, and the covering of Pan-tile: There are 3 Churches and a Cathedral, which is the head Church in thefe parts. Our Countryman Mr Gage, who travelled in thefe parts, recommends it to the World as the pleafanteft place in all America, and calls it the Paradice of the Indies. Indeed if we confider the advantage of its fituation, we may find it furpaffing moft places, for health and pleafure, in America, for the Country about it is of a fandy Soil, which foon drinks up all the Rain that falls, to which thefe parts are much fubject. It is in- compaffed with Savannahs; fo that they have the benefit of the breezes coming from any quarter, all which makes it a very healthy place. It is a place of no great Trade, and therefore not rich in money. Their wealth lies in their Paftures, and Cattle, and Plantations of Sugar. It is faid that they make Cordage here of Hemp, but if they have any fuch Manufactory, it is at fome diftance from [+++---] 219 An. 1685 City of Leon taken. from the Town, for here is no fign of any fuch thing. [---+++] Thither our men were now marching; they went from the Canoas about 8 a clock. Captain Townly with 80 of the briskeft men marched be- fore, Captain Swan with 100 men marched next, and Captain Davis with 170 men marched next, and Captain Knight brought up the Rear. Captain Townly, who was near 2 mile a head of the reft, met about 70 Horfemen 4 mile before he came to the City, but they never ftood him. About 3 a clock Captain Townly only with his 80 men enter- ed the Town, and was briskly charged in a broad ftreet, with 170 or 200 Spanifh Horfemen, but 2 or 3 of their Leaders being knock d down, the reft fled. Their foot confifted of about 500 men, which were drawn up in the Parade; for the Spaniards in thefe parts make a large fquare in every Town, tho the Town it felf be fmall. This Square is cal- cled the Parade: commonly the Church makes one fide of it, and the Gentlemens Houfes with their Galleries about them the other. But the Foot alfo feeing their Horfe retire, left an empty City to Captain Townly; beginning to fave themfelves by flight. Captain Swan came in about 4 a clock, Captain Davis with his men about 5, and Cap- tain Knight with as many men as he could incou- rage to march, came in about 6, but he left many men tired on the road; thefe, as is ufual, came dropping in one or two at a time, as they were a- ble. The next morning the Spaniards kill d one of our tired men; he was a ftout old Grey-headed man, aged about 84, who had ferved under Oliver in the time of the Irifh Rebellion; after which he was at Jamaica, and had followed Privateering e- ver fince. He would not accept of the offer our men made him to tarry afhore, but faid he would venture as far as the beft of them: and when fur- rounded [+++---] 220 An. 1685 City of Leon burnt. rounded by the Spaniards he refufed to take quarter, but difcharged his Gun amongft them, keeping a Piftol ftill charged, fo they fhot him dead at a di- ftance. His name was Swan; he was a very mer- ry hearty old man, and always ufed to declare he would never take quarter: But they took Mr. Smith, who was tired alfo; he was a Merchant belonging to Captain Swan, and being carried before the Governour of Leon, was known by a Mulatta wo- man that waited on him. Mr. Smith had lived ma- ny years in the Canaries, and could fpeak and write very good Spanifh, and it was there this Mulatto woman remembered him. He being examined how many men we were, faid 1000 at the City and 500 at the Canoas, which made well for us at the Canoas, who ftraggling about every day might ea- fily have been deftroyed. But this fo daunted the Governour, that he did never offer to moleit our men, although he had with him above 1000 men as Mr. Smith gueffed. He fent in a Flag of Truce about noon, pretending to ranfom the Town ra- ther than let it be burnt, but our Captains de- manded 300000 pieces of eight for its ranfom, and as much provifion as would victual 1000 men 4 months, and Mr. Smith to be ranfomed for fome of their Prifoners; but the Spaniards did not in- tend toranfom the Town, but only capitulated day after day to prolong time till they had got more men. Our Captains therefore, confidering the di- ftance that they were from the Canoas, refolved to be marching down. The 14th day in the morning they ordered the City to be fet on fire, which was prefently done, and then they came away: but they took more time in coming down than in go- ing up. The 15th day in the morning the Spaniards fent in Mr. Smith, and had a Gentlewoman in ex- change. Then our Captains fent a Letter to the Governour, to acquaint him, that they intended next 221 An.1685 Ria Lexa Harbour and Town. next to visit Ria Lexa, and desired to meet him there: they also released a Gentleman on his promise of paying 150 Beefs for his Ransom, and to deliver them to us at Ria Lexa; and the same day our Men came to their Canoas: where having staid all night, the next morning we all entered our Canoas, and came to the Harbour of Ria Lexa, and in the after- noon our Ships came thither to an anchor. [---+++] The Creek that leads to Ria Lexa lyeth from the N.W. part of the Harbour, and it runs in Norther- ly. It is about 2 leagues from the Island in the Harbours mouth to the Town; 2 thirds of the way it is broad, then you enter a narrow deep Creek, bordered on both sides with Red Mangrove Trees, whose limbs reach almost from one side to the other. A mile from the mouth of the Creek it turns away West. There the Spaniards have made a very strong Breftwork, fronting towards the mouth of the Creek, in which were placed 100 Soldiers to hinder us from landing: and 20 yards below that Breftwork there was a Chain of great Trees placed cross the Creek, so that 10 Men could have kept off 500 or 1000. [---+++] When we came in sight of the Breftwork we fired but two Guns, and they all ran away: and we were afterwards near half an hour cutting the Boom or Chain. Here we landed, and marched to the Town of Rio Lexo, or Rea Lejo, which is a- bout a mile from hence. This Town stands on a Plain by a small River. It is a pretty large Town with 3 Churches, and an Hospital that hath a fine Garden belonging to it: besides many large fair Houses, they all stand at a good distance one from another, with Yards about them. This is a very fickly place, and I believe hath need enough of an Hospital; for it is seated so nigh the Creeks and Swamps, that it is never free from a noisom smell. The Land about it is a strong yellow Clay: yet where [+++---] 222 An.1685 The Guava. Prickle-Pear. where the Town stands it seems to be Sand. Here are several sorts of Fruits, as Guavo's, Pine-apples, Melons, and Prickle Pears. The Pine-apple and Melon are well known. [---+++] The Guava Fruit grows on a hard scrubbed Shrub, whole Bark is smooth and whitish, the branches pretty long and small, the leaf somewhat like the leaf of a Hazel, the fruit much like a Pear, with a thin rind; it is full of small hard seeds, and it may be eaten while it is green, which is a thing very rare in the Indies: for most Fruit, both in the East or West Indies, is full of clammy, white, unfa- vory juice, before it is ripe, though pleasant enough afterwards. When this Fruit is ripe it is yellow, soft, and very pleasant. It bakes as well as a Pear, and it may be coddled, and it makes good Pies. There are of divers sorts different in shape, taste, and co- lour. The inside of some is yellow, of others red. When this Fruit is eaten green it is binding, when ripe it is loosening. [---+++] The Prickle-pear, Bush, or Shrub, of about 4 or 5 foot high, grows in many places of the West Indies, as at Jamaica, and most other Islands there; and on the Main in several places. This prickly Shrub delights most in barren sandy grounds; and they thrive best in places that are near the Sea: especially where the Sand is saltish. The Tree, or Shrub, is 3 or 4 foot high, spreading forth several branches; and on each branch 2 or 3 leaves. These leaves (if I may call them so) are round, as broad every way as the palm of a man's hand, and as thick; their substance like Houseleek: these leaves are fenced round with strong Prickles above an inch long. The Fruit grows at the farther edge of the leaf: it is as big as a large Plumb, growing small near the leaf, and big towards the top, where it opens like a Medlar: This Fruit at first is green like the leaf, from whence it springs with small Prickles about [+++---]223 An.1685 Ria Lexa burnt. about it: but when ripe it is of a deep red colour. The inside is full of small black seeds, mixt with a certain red Pulp like thick Syrup: it is very pleasant in taste, cooling, and refreshing; but if a Man eats 15 or 20 of them they will colour his Water, making it look like blood. This I have often expe- rienced, yet found no harm by it. [---+++] There are many Sugar-works in the Country, and Estantions or Beef Farms: There is also a great deal of Pitch, Tar, and Cordage, made in the Country, which is the chief of their Trade. This Town we approached without any opposition, and found nothing but empty Houses; besides such things as they could not, or would not, carry a- way, which were chiefly about 500 Packs of Flow- er, brought hither in the great Ship that we left at Amapalla, and some Pitch, Tar, and Cordage. These things we wanted, and therefore we sent them all aboard. Here we received 150 Beefs, promised by the Gentleman that was released co- ming from Leon; besides, we visited the Beef Farms every day, and the Sugar-works, going in small companies of 20 or 30 Men, and brought away every Man his load: for we found no Horses, which if we had, yet the ways were so wet and dirty, that they would not have been serviceable to us. We stay'd here from the 17th till the 24th day, and then some of our destructive Crew set fire to the Houses: I know not by whose order, but we marched away and left them burning: at the Breft-work we imbarked into our Canoas, and re- turned aboard our Ships. [---+++] The 25th day Captain Davis and Captain Swan broke off Consortships; for Captain Davis was minded to return again on the Coast of Peru, but Captain Swan desired to go farther to the West- ward. I had till this time been with Captain Davis, but now left him, and went aboard of Captain Swan. [+++---] 224 An.1685 Malignant Fevers. Swan. It was not from any dislike to my old Cap- tain, but to get some knowledge of the Northern parts of this Continent of Mexico: and I knew that Captain Swan determined to coast it as far North as he thought convenient, and then pass over for the East Indies; which was a way very agreeable to my inclination. Captain Townly, with his two Barks, was resolved to keep us company: but Captain Knight and Captain Harris followed Captain Davis. The 27th day in the morning Captain Davis with his Ships went out of the Harbour having a fresh Land Wind. They were in company, Captain Davis's Ship with Captain Harris in her, Captain Davis's Bark and Fireship, and Captain Knight in his own Ship; in all 4 Sail. Captain Swan took his last farewel of him by firing 15 Guns, and he fired 11 in return of the civility. [---+++] We stay'd here some time afterwards to fill our Water, and cut Fire-wood: but our Men, who had been very healthy till now, began to fall down apace in Fevers. Whether it was the badness of the Water, or the unhealthiness of the Town was the cause of it we did not know; but of the two I rather believe it was a Distemper we got at Ria Lexa: for it was reported that they had been visited with a Malignant Fever in that Town, which had occasioned many people to abandon it; and al- though this Visitation was over with them, yet their Houses and Goods might still retain somewhat of the Infection, and communicate the same to us. I the rather believe this, because it afterwards raged very much, not only among us, but also among Captain Davis and his Men, as he told me himself since, when I met him in England: Himself had like to have died, as did several of his and our Men. The 3d day of September we turned ashore all our Prisoners and Pilots, they being unacquainted fur- ther to the West; which was the Coast that we de- signed [+++---] 225 An.1685 Tornadoes. Volcan, and City of Guatimala. signed to visit: for the Spaniards have very little Trade by Sea beyond the River Lempa, a little to the North West of this place. [---+++] About 10 a clock in the morning, the same day, we went from hence, steering Westward, being in company 4 Sail, as well as they who left us, viz. Captain Swan and his Bark, and Captain Townly and his Bark, and about 340 Men. [---+++] We met with very bad weather as we sailed along this Coast: seldom a day past but we had one or two violent Tornadoes, and with them very fright- ful Flashes of Lightning and Claps of Thunder; I did never meet with the like before nor since. These Tornadoes commonly came out of the N. E. the Wind did not last long, but blew very fierce for the time. When the Tornadoes were over we had the Wind at W. sometimes at W. S. W. and S. W. and sometimes to the North of the West, as far as the N. W. [---+++] We kept at a good distance off shore, and saw no Land till the 14th day; but then, being in lat. 12 d. 50 m. the Volcan of Guatimala appeared in sight. This is a very high Mountain with two peeks or heads, appearing like two Sugar-loaves. It often belches forth Flames of Fire and Smoak from between the two heads, and this, as the Spaniards do report, happens chiefly in tempestuous weather. It is called so from the City Guatimala which stands near the foot of it, about 8 leagues from the South Sea, and by report, 40 or 50 leagues from the Gulf of Matique in the Bay of Honduras, in the North Seas. This City is famous for many rich Commodities that are produced thereabouts (some almost peculiar to this Country) and yearly fent into Europe, especially 4 rich Dies, Indico, Otta or Anatta, Silvester, and Cochineel. [---+++] Indico is made of an Herb which grows a foot and half or two foot high, full of small branches, and [+++---]226 An.1685 Indico. Otta or Anatta. and the branches full of leaves, resembling the leaves which grow on Flax, but more thick and substantial. They cut this Herb or Shrub and cast it into a large Cistern made in the ground for that purpose, which is half full of Water. The Indico Stalk or Herb remains in the Water till all the leaves, and I think, the skin, rind, or bark, rot off, and in a manner dissolve: but if any of the leaves should stick fast, they force them off by much labour, tossing and tumbling the mass in the water, till all the pulpy substance is dissolved. Then the Shrub, or woody part, is taken out, and the Water, which is like Ink, being disturbed no more settles, and the Indico falls to the bottom of the Cistern like Mud. When it is thus settled they draw off the Water, and take the Mud and lay it in the Sun to dry: which there becomes hard as you see it brought home. [---+++] Otta, or Anatta, is a red sort of Dye. It is made of a red Flower that grows on Shrubs 7 or 8 foot high. It is thrown into a Cistern of Water as the Indico is, but with this difference, that there is no stalk, nor so much as the head of the Flower, but only the Flower it self pul d off from the head, as you peel Rose-leaves from the bud. This remains in the Water till it rots, and by much jumbling it dissolves to a liquid substance, like the Indico; and being settled, and the Water drawn off, the red Mud is made up into Rolls or Cakes, and laid in the Sun to dry. I did never see any made but at a place called the Angels in Jamaica, at Sir Tho. Muddiford's Plantations, about 20 years since; but was grubb'd up while I was there, and the ground otherwise employed. I do believe there is none any where else on Jamaica: and even this probably was owing to the Spaniards, when they had that Island. Indico is common enough in Jamaica. I observed they planted it most in sandy ground: they fow great [+++---] 227 An.1685 Indico. Otta or Anatta. great Fields of it, and I think they sow it every year; but I did never see the Seeds it bears. In- dico is produced all over the West Indies, on most of the Caribbee Islands, as well as the Main; yet no part of the Main yields such great quantities both of Indico and Otta as this Country about Guatimala. I believe that Otta is made now only by the Spani- ards; for since the destroying that at the Angels Plantation in Jamaica, I have not heard of any improvement made of this commodity by our Countrymen any where; and as to Jamaica, I have since been informed, that 'tis wholy left off there. I know not what quantities either of Indico or Ot- ta are made at Cuba or Hispaniola: but the place most used by our Jamaica Sloops for these things is the Island Porto Rico, where our Jamaica Tra- ders did use to buy Indico for 3 Rials, and Otta for 4 Rials the pound; which is but 2s. 3d. of our Money: and yet at the same time Otta was worth in Jamaica 5s. the pound, and Indico 3s. 6d. the pound; and even this also paid in Goods; by which means alone they got 50 or 60 per Cent. Our Traders had not then found the way of trading with the Spaniards in the Bay of Honduras; but Captain Coxon went thither (as I take it) at the be- ginning of the year 1679. under pretence to cut Logwood, and went into the Gulf of Matique, which is in the bottom of that Bay. There he landed with his Canoas, and took a whole Store- house full of Indico and Otta in Chests, piled up in several parcels, and marked with different marks, ready to be shipt aboard two Ships that then lay in the road purposely to take it in; but these Ships could not come at him it being fhole- water. He opened some of the Chests of Indico, and supposing the other Chests to be all of the same species, ordered his Men to carry them away. They immediately set to work, and took the nearest at hand; [+++---] 228 An.1685 Cochineel. hand; and having carried out one heap of Chests, they seized on another great pile of a different mark from the rest, intending to carry them away next. But a Spanish Gentleman, their Prisoner, knowing that there was a great deal more than they could carry away, desired them to take only such as belonged to the Merchants, (whose Marks he undertook to shew them) and to spare such as had the same Mark with those in that great Pile they were then entring upon: because, he said, those Chests belonged to the Ship-Captains, who fol- lowing the Seas, as themselves did, he hoped they would for that reason rather spare their Goods than the Merchants. They consented to his Request: but upon their opening their Chests (which was not before they came to Jamaica, where by conni- vance they were permitted to sell them) they found that the Don had been too sharp for them; the few Chests which they had taken of the same Mark with the great Pile proving to be Otta, of greater value by far than the other; whereas they might as well have loaded the whole Ship with Otta, as with Indico. [---+++] The Cochineel is an Insect, bred in a sort of Fruit much like the Prickle Pear. The Tree or Shrub that bears it is like the Prickle Pear-tree, about 5 foot high, and so prickly; only the Leaves are not quite so big, but the Fruit is bigger. On the top of the Fruit there grows a red Flower: This Flow- er, when the Fruit is ripe, falls down on the top of the Fruit, which then begins to open, and covers it so, that no Rain nor Dew can wet the inside. The next day, or 2 days after its falling down, the Flower being then scorched away by the heat of the Sun, the Fruit opens as broad as the mouth of a pint pot, and the inside of the Fruit is by this time full of small red infects, with curious thin wings. As they were bred here, so here they would dye for [+++---] 229 An.1685 Cochineel. Silvester. for want of food, and rot in their husks, (having by this time eaten up their mother Fruit) did not the Indians, who plant large fields of these Trees, when once they perceive the Fruit open, take care to drive them out: for they spread under the branch- es of the Tree a large Linnen cloth, and then with sticks they shake the branches, and so disturb the poor infects, that they take wing to be gone', yet hovering still over the head of their native Tree, but the heat of the Sun so disorders them, that they presently fall down dead on the cloth spread for that purpose, where the Indians let them remain 2 or 3 days longer, till they are throughly dry. When they fly up they are red, when they fall down they are black; and when first they are quite dry they are white as the sheet wherein they lye, though the colour change a little after. These yield the much esteemed Scarlet. The Cochineel- trees are called by the Spaniards Toona's: They are planted in the Country about Guatimala, and about Cheape and Guaxaca, all 3 in the Kingdom of Mexi- co. The Silvester is a red grain growing in a Fruit much resembling the Cochineel-fruit; as doth also the Tree that bears it. There first shoots forth a yellow Flower, then comes the Fruit, which is longer than the Cochineel-fruit. The Fruit being ripe opens also very wide. The inside being full of these small Seeds or Grains, they fall out with the least touch or shake. The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive the Seed, and then shake it down. These Trees grow wild; and 8 or 10 of these Fruits will yield an ounce of Seed: but of the Cochineel-fruits, 3 or 4 will yield an ounce of infects. The Silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the Cochineel; and so like it as to be often mistaken for it, but it is not near so valuable. I often made enquiry how the Silvester grows, and of the Cochineel; but was never fully satisfied, till [+++---]230 An.1685 Drift-wood, and Pumice-stones. I met a Spanish Gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies, and some years where these grow; and from him I had these relations. He was a ve- ry intelligent person, and pretended to be well ac- quainted in the Bay of Campechy; therefore I exa- mined him in many particulars concerning that Bay, where I was well acquainted my self, living there 3 years. He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands, so that I could have no distrust of what he related. [---+++] When we first saw the Mountain of Guatimala, we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it. As we came nearer the Land it appeared higher and plainer, yet we saw no fire, but a little smoak pro- ceeding from it. The Land by the Sea was of a good height, yet but low in comparison with that in the Country. The Sea for about 8 or 10 leagues from the shore, was full of floating Trees, or Drift Wood as it is called, (of which I have seen a great deal, but no where so much as here), and Pumice- stones floating, which probably are thrown out of the burning Mountains, and washed down to the shore by the Rains, which are very violent and frequent in this Country; and on the side of Hon- duras it is excessively wet. [---+++] The 24th day we were in lat. 14 d. 30 m. North, and the weather more settled. Then Captain Townly took with him 106 men in 9 Canoas, and went away to the Westward, where he intended to Land, and romage in the Country for some refreshment for our sick men, we having at this time near half our men sick, and many were dead, since we left Ria Lexa. We in the Ships lay still with our Topfails furled, and our Corses or lower Sails hal'd up this day and the next, that Captain Townly might get the start of us. [---+++] The 26th day we made sail again, coasting to the Westward, having the Wind at North and fair weather. 231 An.1685 The Sea-Coast. weather. We ran along by a tract of very high Land, which came from the Eastward, more within Land than we could see, after we fell in with it, it bare us company for about 10 leagues, and ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the West. [---+++] There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low Country, which seemed to be rich in Pasturage for Cattle. It was plentifully furnished with groves of green Trees, mixt among the grassy Savannahs: Here the Land was fenced from the Sea with high sandy Hills, for the Waves all along this Coast run high, and beat against the shore very boisterously, making the Land wholly unapproachable in Boats or Canoas : So we Coasted still along by this low Land, 8 or 9 leagues farther, keeping close to the shore for fear of missing Captain Townly. We lay by in the night, and in the day made an easie sail. [---+++] The 2d day of October Captain Townly came a- board ; he had coasted along shore in his Canoas, seeking for an entrance, but found none. At last, being out of hopes to find any Bay, Creek, or Ri- ver, into which he might safely enter ; he put a- shore on a sandy Bay, but overset all his Canoas ; he had one man drowned, and several loft their Arms, and some of them that had not waxt up their Cartrage or Catouche Boxes, wet all their Powder. : Captain Townly with much ado got a- shore, and dragged the Canoas up dry on the Bay ; then every man searched his Catouche-box, and drew the wet Powder out of his Gun, and pro- vided to march into the Country, but finding it full of great Creeks which they could not ford, they were forced to return again to their Canoas. In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm ; the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately repulsed, and made greater speed back than they had done for- ward. [+++---] 232 An.1685 Isle Tangola. Guatulco, a Port. ward. Captain Townly followed them, but not far for fear of his Canoas. These men came from Te- guantapeque, a Town that Captain Townly went chiefly to seek, because the Spanish Books make mention of a large River there ; but whether it was run away at this time, or rather Captain Townly and his men were short sighted, I know not ; but they could not find it. [---+++] Upon his return we presently made sail, coasting still Westward, having the Wind at E. N. E. fair weather and a fresh gale. We kept within 2 mile of the shore, founding all the way ; and found at 6 miles distance from Land 19 fathom ; at 8 miles distance 21 fathom, gros Sand. We saw no open- ing, nor sign of any place to land at, so we sailed about 20 leagues farther, and came to a small high Island called Tangola, where there is good anchor- ing. The Island is indifferently well furnished with Wood and Water, and lieth about a league from the shore. The Main against the Island is pretty high champion Savannah Land by the Sea ; but 2 or 3 leagues within land it is higher, and very woody. [---+++] We coasted a league farther and came to Guatul- co. This Port is in lat. 15 d. 30 m. it is one of the best in all this Kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the mouth of the Harbour, on the East side, there is a little Island close by the shore ; and on the West side of the mouth of the Harbour there is a great hollow Rock which by the continual work- ing of the Sea in and out makes a great noise, which may be heard a great way. Every Surge that comes in forceth the Water out of a little hole on its top, as out of a pipe, from whence it flys out just like the blowing of a Whale ; to which the Spaniards also liken it. They call this Rock and Spout the Buffadore : upon what account I know not. Even in [+++---] 233 An.1685 Guatulco. Capalita River. in the calmest seasons the Sea beats in there, ma- king the Water spout out at the hole : so that this is always a good mark to find the Harbour by. The Harbour is about 3 mile deep, and one mile broad ; it runs in N. W. But the West side of the Harbour is best to ride in for small Ships ; for there you may ride land-locked : whereas any where else you are open to the S. W. Winds, which often blow here. There is good clean ground any where, and good gradual foundings from 16 to 6 fathom ; it is bounded with a smooth sandy shore, very good to land at ; and at the bottom of the Harbour there is a fine Brook of fresh Water running into the Sea. Here formerly stood a small Spanish Town, or Village, which was taken by Sir Francis Drake : but now there is nothing remaining of it, beside a little Chappel standing among the Trees, about 200 paces from the Sea. The Land appears in small short ridges parallel to the shore, and to each other ; the innermost still gradually higher than that nearer the shore ; and they are all clothed with very high flourishing Trees, that it is extraor- dinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a di- stance : I have no where seen any thing like it. [---+++] At this place Captain Swan, who had been very sick, came ashore, and all the sick Men with him, and the Surgeon to tend them. Captain Townley again took a company of Men with him, and went into the Country to seek for Houses or Inhabitants. He marched away to the Eastward, and came to the River Capalita : which is a swift River, yet deep near the mouth, and is about a league from Guatulco. There 2 of his Men swam over the River, and took 3 Indians that were placed there, as Centinels, to watch for our coming. These could none of them speak Spanish ; yet our Men by signs made them understand, that they desired to know if there was any Town or Village near ; who by the signs which [+++---] 234 An.1685 Turtle. Vinello's. which they made gave our Men to understand, that they could guide them to a Settlement : but there was no understanding by them, whether it was a Spanish or Indian Settlement, nor how far it was thi- ther. They brought these Indians aboard with them, and the next day, which was the 6th day of Octo- ber, Captain Townly with 140 Men (of whom I was one) went ashore again, taking one of these Indians with us for a Guide to conduct us to this Settlement. Our Men that stay'd aboard fill'd our Water, and cut Wood, and mended our Sails : and our Moskito Men struck 3 or 4 Turtle every day. They were a small sort of Turtle, and not very sweet, yet very well esteemed by us all, because we had eaten no flesh a great while. The 8th day we returned out of the Country, having been about 14 miles directly within land before we came to any Settlement. There we found a small Indian Vil- lage, and in it a great quantity of Vinello's drying in the Sun. [---+++] The Vinello is a little Cod full of small black seeds ; it is 4 or 5 inches long, about the bigness of the stem of a Tobacco leaf, and when dried much resembling it: so that our Privateers at first have often thrown them away when they took any, wondering why the Spaniards should lay up To- bacco stems. This Cod grows on a small Vine, which climbs about and supports it self by the neighbouring Trees: it first bears a yellow Flower, from whence the Cod afterwards proceeds. It is first green, but when ripe it turns yellow ; then the Indians (whose Manufacture it is, and who sell it cheap to the Spaniards) gather it, and lay it in the Sun, which makes it soft ; then it changes to a Chesnut-colour. Then they frequently press it be- tween their fingers, which makes it flat. If the In- dians do any thing to them beside, I know not ; but I have seen the Spaniards sleek them with Oyl. These [+++---] 235 An.1685 Vinello's, where found. These Vines grow plentifully at Bocca-toro, where I have gathered and tried to cure them, but could not: which makes me think that the Indians have some secret that I know not of to cure them. I have often ask: the Spaniards how they were cured, but I never could meet with any could tell me. One Mr. Cree also, a very curious person, who spake Spanish well, and had been a Privateer all his Life, and 7 years a Prisoner among the Spaniards at Porto- bel and Cartagena, yet upon all his enquiry could not find any of them that understood it. Could we have learnt the Art of it, several of us would have gone to Bocca-toro yearly, at the dry season and cured them, and freighted our Vessel. We there might have had Turtle enough for food, and store of Vinello's. Mr. Cree first shewed me those at Bocca-toro. At, or near a Town also, called Cai- hooca, in the Bay of Campeachy, these Cods are found. They are commoly fold for 3 pence a Cod among the Spaniards in the West-Inaies, and are sold by the Druggist, for they are much used among Choco- late to perfume it. Some will use them among To- bacco, for it gives a delicate scent. I never heard of any Vinello's but here in this Country, about Cai- hooca, and at Bocca-toro. [---+++] The Indians of this Village could speak but little Spanish. They seemed to be a poor innocent peo- ple : and by them we understood, that here are very few Spaniards in these parts; yet all the Indi- ans hereabout are under them. The Land from the Sea to their Houses is black Earth, mixt with some Stones and Rocks ; all the way full of very high Trees. [---+++] The 10th day we sent 4 Canoas to the West- ward, who were ordered to lye for us at Port An- gels ; where we were in hopes that by some means or other they might get Prisoners, that might give a better account of the Country than at [+++---] 236 An.1685 They depart from Guatulco. at present we could have ; and we followed them with our Ships : all our Men being now pretty well recovered of the Fever which had raged amongst us ever since we departed from Ria Lexa. [+++---]