[ch9 is page 237-278] 237 An.1685 C H A P. IX. [---+++] They set out from Guatulco. The Isle Sacrificio. Port Angels. Jaccals. A narrow Escape. The Rock Algatrofs, and the neighbouring Coast. Snooks, a sort of Fish. The Town of Acapulco. Of the Trade it drives with the Philippine Islands. The Haven of Acapulco. A Tor- nado. Port Marquis. Capt. Townly makes a fruitless Attempt. A long sandy Bay, but very rough Seas. The Palm-tree great and small. The Hill Petaplan. A poor Indian Village. Jew fish. Chequetan, a good Harbour. Esta- pas; Muscles there. A Caravan of Mules taken. A Hill near Thelupan. The Coast hereabouts. The Volcan, Town, Valley, and Bay of Colima. Sallagua Port. Oarrha. Ragged Hills. Co- ronada, or the Crown-Land. Cape Corri- entes. Isles of Chametly. The City Purifi- cation. Valderas, or the Valley of Flags. They miss their design on this Coast. Captain Townly leaves them with the Darien Indi- ans. The Point and Isles of Pontique. O- ther Isles of Chametly. The Penguin-fruit, the yellow and the red. Seals here. Of the Ri- ver of Cullacan, and the Trade of a Town there with California. Masslaclan. River and Town of Rosario. Caput Cavalli, and ano- ther Hill. The difficulty of Intelligence on this Coast. The River of Oleta. River of St. Jago. Maxentelba Rock, and Zelisco Hill. Sancta Pecaque [+++---] 238 An.1685 The Isle Sacrificio. [---+++] Pecaque Town in the River of St. Jago. Of Compostella. Many of them cut off at Sancta Pecaque. Of California; whether an Island, or not: and of the North West and North East Passage. A Method proposed for Disco- very of the North West and North East Pas- sages. Isle of Santa Maria. A prickly Plant. Captain Swan proposes a Voyage to the East In- dies. Valley of Balderas again, and Cape Corrientes. The reason of their ill Success on the Mexican Coast, and Departure thence for the East Indies. [---+++] IT was the 12th of October 1685, when we set out of the Harbour of Guatulco with our Ships. The Land here lies along West, and a little South- erly for about 20 or 30 leagues, and the Sea Winds are commonly at W. S. W. sometimes at S. W. the Land Winds at N. We had now fair weather, and but little Wind. We coasted along to the West- ward, keeping as near the shore as we could for the benefit of the Land Winds, for the Sea Winds were right against us; and we found a current setting to the Eastward which kept us back, and obliged us to anchor at the Island Sacrificio, which is a small green Island about half a mile long. It lieth about a league to the West of Guatulco, and about half a mile from the Main. There seems to be a fine Bay to the West of the Island; but it is full of Rocks. The best riding is between the Island and the Main: there you will have 5 or 6 fathom Water. Here runs a pretty strong tide; the Sea riseth and falleth 5 or 6 foot up and down. [---+++] The 18th day we sailed from hence, coasting to the Westward after our Canoas. We kept near the shore, which was all sandy Bays; the Country pretty [+++---] 239 An.1685 Port Angels. [---+++] pretty high and woody, and a great Sea tumbling in upon the shore. The 22d day 2 of our Canoas came aboard, and told us they had been a great way to the Westward, but could not find Port An- gels. They had attempted to land the day before, at a place where they saw a great many Bulls and Cows feeding, in hopes to get some of them; but the Sea run so high, that they over-set both Ca- noas, and wet all their Arms, and lost 4 Guns, and had one Man drown'd, and with much ado got off again. They could give no account of the other 2 Canoas, for they lost company the first night that they went from Guatulco, and had not seen them since. [---+++] We were now abreft of Port Angels, though our men in the Canoas did not know it; therefore we went in and anchored there. This is a broad open Bay, with 2 or 3 Rocks at the West side. Here is good anchoring all over the Bay, in 30 or 20 or 12 fathom Water; but you must ride open to all Winds, except the Land Winds, till you come into 12 or 13 fathom Water; then you are sheltered from the W. S. W. which are the common Trade Winds. The Tide rifeth here about 5 foot; the Flood sets to the N. E. and the Ebb to the S. W. The landing in this Bay is bad; the place of land- ing is close by the West side, behind a few Rocks; here always goes a great swell. The Spaniards com- pare this Harbour for goodness to Guatulco, but there is a great difference between them. For Guatulco is almost Landlocked, and this is an open road, and no one would easily know it by theirCha- racter of it, but by its marks, and its latitude, which is 15 d. North. For this reason our Canoas, which were sent from Guatulco and ordered to tarry here for us did not know it, (not thinking this to be that fine Harbour) and therefore went farther; 2 of them as I said before returned again, but the other [+++---] 240 An.1685 A Farm. Jaccals. [---+++] other 2 were not yet come to us. The Land that bounds this Harbour is pretty high, the Earth sandy and yellow, in some places red; it is partly Wood- land, partly Savannahs. The Trees in the Woods are large and tall, and the Savannahs are plenti- fully stored with very kindly Grass. Two leagues to the East of this place is a Beef Farm, belonging to Don Diego de la Rosa. [---+++] The 23 day we landed about 100 men and march- ed thither, where we found plenty of fat Bulls and Cows, feeding in the Savannahs, and in the House good store of Salt and Maiz, and some Hogs, and Cocks and Hens: but the owners or overseers were gone. We lay here 2 or 3 days feasting on fresh provision, but could not contrive to carry any quan- tity aboard, because the way was so long, and our men but weak, and a great wide River to ford. Therefore we return'd again from thence the 26th day, and brought every one a little Beef or Pork for the men that stay'd aboard. The two nights that we stay'd ashore at this place we heard great droves of Jaccals, as we suppos'd them to be, bark- ing all night long, not far from us. None of us saw these; but I do verily believe they were Jaccals; tho I did never see those Creatures in America, nor hear any but at this time. We could not think that there were less than 30 or 40 in a company. We got aboard in the evening; but did not yet hear a- ny news of our two Canoas. [---+++] The 27th day in the morning we sailed from hence, with the Land Wind at N. by W.: The Sea Wind came about noon at W. S. W. and in the even- ing we anchored in 16 fathom water, by a small rocky Island, which lieth about half a mile from the Main, and 6 leagues Westward from Port An- gels. The Spaniards give no account of this Island in their Pilot-book. The 28th day we sailed again with the Land Wind; in the afternoon the Sea breez 241 An.1685 A Narrow Escape. breez blew hard, and we sprung our Main Topmast. This Coast is full of small Hills and Valleys, and a great Sea falls in upon the shore. In the night we met with the other 2 of our Canoas that went from us at Guatulco. They had been as far as Acapulco to seek Port Angells. Coming back from thence they went into a River to get Water, and were encounterd by 150 Spaniards, yet they fill'd their Water in spight of them, but had one man shot through the Thigh. Afterward they went into a Lagune, or Lake of Salt-water, where they found much dried Fish, and brought some aboard. We being now a- brest of that place, sent in a Canoa mann'd with 12 men for more Fish: The mouth of this Lagune is not Pistol-shot wide, and on both sides are pretty high Rocks, so conveniently placed by nature, that many men may abscond behind ; and within the Rock the Lagune opens wide on both sides. The Spaniards being allarmed by our 2 Canoas that had been there 2 or 3 days before, came armed to this place to secure their Fish ; and seeing our Canoa coming, they lay snug behind the Rocks, and suf- fered the Canoa to pass in, then they fired their Volley, and wounded 5 of our men. Our people were a little surprized at this sudden adventure; yet fired their Guns, and rowed farther into the Lagune, for they durst not adventure to come out again through the narrow entrance, which was near a quarter of a mile in length. Therefore they rowed into the middle of the Lagune, where they lay out of Gun-shot, and looked about to see if there was not another passage to get out at, broad- er than that by which they entered, but could see none. So they lay still 2 days and 3 nights, in hopes that we should come to seek them; but we lay off at Sea, about 3 leagues distant, waiting for their return, supposing by their long absence that they had made some greater discovery, and were gone [+++---] 242 An.1685 The Sea-coast. gone farther than the Fish-range; because it is u- sual with Privateers when they enter upon such de- signs, to search farther than they proposed, if they meet any encouragement. But Captain Townly and his Bark being nearer the shore, heard some Guns fired in the Lagune. So he mann'd his Ca- noa, and went towards the shore, and beating the Spaniards away from the Rocks, made a free passage for our men to come out of their pound, where else they must have been starved or knocked on the head by the Spaniards. They came aboard their Ships again the 31st of October. This Lagune is about the lat. of 16 d. 40 m. North. [---+++] From hence we made sail again, coasting to the Westward, having fair weather and a Current set- ting to the West. The second day of November we past by a Rock, called by the Spaniards the Alga- trofs. The Land hereabout is of an indifferent height, and woody, and more within the Country Mountainous. Here are 7 or 8 white cliffs by the Sea, which are very remarkable, because there are none so white and so thick together on all the Coast. They are 5 or 6 mile to the West of the Algalrofs Rock. There is a dangerous shoal lieth S. by W. from these Cliffs, 4 or 5 mile off at Sea. Two leagues to the West of these Cliffs there is a pretty large River, which forms a small Island at its mouth. The Channel on the East side is but shoal and sandy, but the West Channel is deep e- nough for Canoas to enter. On the Banks of this Channel the Spaniards have made a Breftwork, to hinder an Enemy from landing, or filling Water. [---+++] The 3d day we anchored abreast of this River, in 14 fathom Water, about a mile and a half off shore. The next morning we mann'd our Canoas, and went ashore to the Breftwork with little resistance, although there were about 200 men to keep us off. They fired about 20 or 30 Guns at us, but seeing wo [+++---] 243 An.1685 Snooks, a sort of Fish. we were resolved to land, they quitted the place; one chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us, although many times much our fu- periors in numbers, and in many places fortified with Breftworks is, their want of small Fire-arms, for they have but few on all the Sea Coasts, unless near their larger Garrisons. Here we found a great deal of Salt, brought hither as I judge for to salt Fish, which they take in the Lagunes. The Fish I observed here mostly, were what we call Snooks, neither a Sea-fish nor fresh Water-fish, but very nu- merous in these salt Lakes. This Fish is about a foot long, and round, and as thick as the small of a mans Leg, with a pretty long head : It hath Scales of a whitish colour, and is good meat. How the Spaniards take them I know not : for we never found any Nets, Hooks, or Lines, neither yet any Bark, Boat, or Canoa, among them on all this Coast ; except the Ship I shall mention at Aca- pulco. [---+++] We marched 2 or 3 leagues into the Country, and met with but one House, where we took a Mulatto Prisoner, who informed us of a Ship that was lately arrived at Acapulco ; she came from Lima. Captain Townly wanting a good Ship thought now he had an opportunity of getting one, if he could perswade his men to venture with him, into the Harbour of Acapulco, and fetch this Lima Ship out. Therefore he immediately proposed it, and found not only all his own men willing to assist him, but many of Captain Swan's men also. Cap- tain Swan opposed it, because Provision being scarce with us, he thought our time might be much bet- ter imployed in first providing our selves with food, and here was plenty of Maiz in the River where we now were, as we were informed by the same Prisoner ; who offered to conduct us to the place where it was. But neither the present necessity, nor R 2 Cap- [+++---] 244 An.1685 Acapulco. Captain Swan's perswasion availed any thing, no nor yet their own interest ; for the great design we had then in hand, was to lye and wait for a rich Ship which comes to Acapulco every year richly la- den from the Philippine Islands. But it was necessary we should be well stored with Provisions, to ena- ble us to cruize about, and wait the time of her co- ming. However Townley's Party prevailing, we only fill'd our Water here, and made ready to be gone. So the 5th day in the afternoon we sailed again, coasting to the westward, towards Acapulco. The 7th day in the afternoon, being about 12 leagues from the shore, we saw the high Land of Acapulco, which is very remarkable: for there is a round Hill standing between other 2 Hills ; the westermost of which is the biggest and highest, and hath two Hillocks like two paps on its top : the eaftermost Hill is higher and sharper than the mid- dlemost. From the middle Hill the Land declines toward the Sea, ending in a high round point. There is no Land shaped like this on all the Coast. In the evening Captain Townly went away from the Ships with 140 men in 12 Canoas, to try to get the Lima Ship out of Acapulco Harbour. [---+++] Acapulco is a pretty large Town 17 degrees North of the Equator. It is the Sea-port for the City of Mexico, on the West side of the Continent ; as La Vera-Cruz, or St. John d' Ulloa in the Bay of Nova Hifpania, is on the North side. This Town is the only place of Trade on all this Coast ; for there is little or no Traffick by Sea on all the N. W. part of this vast Kingdom, here being as I have said neither Boats, Barks nor Ships, (that I could ever see) unless only what come hither from other parts, and some Boats near the S. E. end of California; as I guess by the intercourse between that and the Main, for Pearl-fishing. The [+++---] 245 An.1685 The Ships that trade with Manila. The Ships that Trade hither are only 3, two that constantly go once a year between this and Manila in Luconia, one of the Phillipine Islands, and one Ship more every year to and from Lima. This from Lima commonly arrives a little before Chrift- mas; she brings them Quick-filver, Cacao, and pieces of Eight. Here she stays till the Manila Ship arrives, and then takes in a Cargo of Spices, Silks, Callicoes, and Muzlins, and other Eaft In- dia Commodities for the use of Peru, and then returns to Lima. This is but a small Veffel of 20 Guns, but the 2 Manila Ships are each said to be above 1000 Tun. These make their Voy- ages alternately, so that one or other of them is al- ways at the Manillas. When either of them sets out from Acapulco, it is at the latter end of March, or the beginning of April ; she alwas touches to re- fresh at Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands, in about 60 days space after she sets out. There she stays but 2 or 3 days, and then prosecutes her Voyage to Manila, where she commonly arrives some time in June. By that time the other is ready to sail from thence, laden with Eaft India Commodities. She stretcheth away to the North as far as 36, or fometimes into 40 degrees of North lat. before she gets a wind to stand over to the American shore. She falls in first with the Coast of California, and then Coasts along the shore to the South again, and never misses of a wind to bring her away from thence quite to Acapulco. When she gets the length of Cape St. Lucas, which is the Southermoft point of California, she stretcheth over to Cape Corrientes, which is in about the 20th degree of North lat. from thence she Coasts along till she comes to Sal- lagua, and there she sets ashore Passengers, that are bound to the City of Mexico: From thence she makes her best way, coasting still along shore, till she arrives at Acapulco, which is commonly about R 3 Chris- [+++---] 246 An.1685 Acapulco Harbour. Chriftmas, never more than 8 or 10 days before or after. Upon the return of this Ship to the Manila, the other which stayeth there till her arrival, takes her turn back to Acapulco. Sir John Narborough there- fore was imposed on by the Spaniards, who told him that there were 6 sail or more that used this Trade. [---+++] The Port of Acapulco is very commodious for the reception of Ships, and so large, that some hundreds may safely ride there without damnify- ing each other. There is a small low Island cros- sing the mouth of the Harbour ; it is about a mile and a half long, and half a mile broad, stretching East and West. It leaves a good wide deep Chan- nel at each end, where Ships may safely go in or come out, taking the advantage of the Winds; they must enter with the Sea-wind, and go out with the Land-wind, for these Winds seldom or never fail to succeed each other alternately in their proper seafons of the day or night. The Westermost Channel is the narrowest, but so deep there is no anchoring, and the Manila Ships pass in that way, but the Ships from Lima enters on the S. W. Chan- nel. This Harbour runs in North about 3 miles, then growing very narrow, it turns short about to the West, and runs about a mile farther where it ends. The Town stands on the N. W. side, at the mouth of this narrow passage, close by the Sea, and at the end of the Town there is a Platform with a great many Guns. Opposite to the Town on the East side stands a high strong Castle, said to have 40 Guns of a very great bore. Ships common- ly ride near the bottom of the Harbour, under the Command both of the Castle and the Plat- form. [---+++] Captain Townly, who, as I said before, with 140 men, left our Ships on a design to fetch the Lima Ship out of the Harbour, had not rowed above 3 or 4 leagues before the Voyage was like to end with [+++---] 247 An.1685 Port Marquis. with all their Lives; for on a sudden they were en- countered with a violent Tornado from the shore, which had like to have foundered all the Canoas : but they escaped that danger, and the second night got safe into Port Marquis. Port Marquis is a very good Harbour, a league to the East of Acapulco Har- bour. Here they staid all the next day to dry them- selves, their Cloaths, their Arms and Ammunition, and the next night they rowed softly into Acapul- co Harbour : and because they would not be heard, they hal'd in their Oars, and paddled as softly as if they had been seeking Manatee. They paddled close to the Castle ; then struck over to the Town, and found the Ship riding between the Breftwork and the Fort, within about 100 yards of each. When they had well viewed her, and considered the danger of the design, they thought it not possi- ble to accomplish it : therefore they paddled softly back again, till they were out of command of the Forts, and then they went to land, and fell in a- mong a company of Spanish Soldiers (for the Spani- ards having seen them the day before had set Guards along the Coast) who immediately fired at them, but did them no damage, only made them retire farther from the shore. They lay afterwards at the mouth of the Harbour till it was day to take a view of the Town and Castle, and then returned aboard again, being tired, hungry, and sorry for their disappointment. [---+++] The 11th day we made sail again further on to the Westward, with the Land-wind, which is com- monly at N. E. but the Sea Winds are at S. W. We passed by a long sandy Bay of above 20 leagues. All the way along it the Sea falls with such force on the shore, that it is impossible to come near it with Boat or Canoa: yet it is good clean ground, and good an- choring a mile or two from the shore. The Land by the Sea is low, and indifferent fertile, produ- R 4 cing [+++---] 248 An.1685 The Palm-tree. Hill of Petaplan. cing many sorts of Trees, especially the spreading Palm, which grows in spots from one end of the Bay to the other. [---+++] The Palm-tree is as big as an ordinary Ash, growing about 20 or 30 foot high. The body is clear from boughs or branches, till just at the head; there it spreads forth many large green branches, not much unlike the Cabbage-tree before described. These branches also grow in many places, (as in Jamaica, Darien, the Bay of Campeachy, &c.) from a stump not above a foot or two high ; which is not the remains of a Tree cut down; for none of these sort of Trees will ever grow again when they have once lost their head: but these are a sort of Dwarf-palm, and the branches which grow from the stump, are not so large as those that grow on the great Tree. These smaller branches are used both in the East and West Indies for thatching Houses: they are very lasting and serviceable, much surpassing the Palmeto. For this Thatch, if well laid on, will endure 5 or 6 years ; and this is called by the Spaniards the Palmeto Royal. The En- glish at Jamaica give it the same Name. Whether this be the same which they in Guinea get the Palm- wine from I know not ; but I know that it is like this. [---+++] The Land in the Country is full of small peeked barren Hills, making as many little Valleys, which appear flourishing and green. At the West end of this Bay is the Hill of Petaplan, in lat. 17 d. 30 m. N. This is a round point stretching out into the Sea: at a distance it seems to be an Island. A little to the West of this Hill are several round Rocks, which we left without us, steering in between them and the round point, where we had 11 fa- thom water. We came to an anchor on the N. W. side of the Hill, and went ashore, about 170 Men of us, and marched into the Country 12 or 14 miles, [+++---] 249 Jew-fish. Chequetan. miles. There we came to a poor Indian Village that did not afford us a Meal of Victuals. The peo- ple all fled, only a Mulatto woman, and 3 or 4 small Children, who were taken and brought a- board. She told us that a Carrier, (one who drives a Caravan of Mules) was going to Acapulco laden with Flower and other Goods, but stopt in the Road for fear of us, a little to the West of this Vil- lage, (for he had heard of our being on this Coast) and she thought he still remained there : and there- fore it was we kept the Woman to be our Guide to carry us to that place. At this place where we now lay our Moskito-men struck some small Turtle, and many small Jew-fish. [---+++] The Jew-fish is a very good Fish, and I judge so called by the English because it hath Scales and Fins, therefore a clean Fish according to the Levitical Law, and the Jews at Jamaica buy them, and eat them very freely. It is a very large Fish, shaped much like a Cod, but a great deal bigger; one will weigh 3, or 4, or 5 hundred weight. It hath a large head, with great Fins and Scales, as big as an Half- Crown, answerable to the bigness of his body. It is very sweet Meat, and commonly fat. This Fish lives among Rocks; there are plenty of them in the West Indies, about Jamaica, and the Coast of Caraccos; but chiefly in these Seas, especially more Westward. [---+++] We went from hence with our Ships the 18th day, and steered West about 2 leagues farther, to a place called Chequetan. A mile and half from the shore there is a small Key, and within it is a very good Harbour where Ships may careen ; there is also a small River of fresh water, and wood enough. [---+++] The 14th day in the morning we went with 95 Men in 6 Canoas, to seek for the Carrier, taking the Mulatto woman for our Guide ; but Captain Townly would not go with us. Before day we land- ed [+++---] 250 An.1685 A Caravan of Mules taken. ed at a place called Estapa, a league to the West of Chequetan. The woman was well acquainted here, having been often at this place for Muscles, as she told us, for here are great plenty of them : they seem in all respects like our English Muscles. She carry'd us through the pathlefs Wood by the side of a River, for about a league : then we came into a Savannah full of Bulls and Cows; and here the Carrier before mentioned was lying at the Eftan- tion-house with his Mules, not having dared to advance all this while, as not knowing where we lay : so his own fear made him, his Mules, and all his Goods, become a Prey to us. He had 40 packs of Flower, some Chocolate, a great many small Cheeses, and abundance of Earthen Ware. The eatables we brought away, but the Earthen Veffels we had no occasion for, and therefore left them. The Mules were about 60 : we brought our Prize with them to the shore, and so turn'd them away. Here we also kill'd some Cows, and brought with us to our Canoas. In the afternoon our Ships came to an anchor half a mile from the place where we landed, and then we went aboard. Captain Town- ly seeing our good success went ashore with his Men to kill some Cows ; for here were no Inha- bitants near to oppose us. The Land is very woody, of a good fertile foil, watered with many small Rivers: yet it hath but few Inhabitants near the Sea. Captain Townly killed 18 Beefs, and after he came aboard, our Men, contrary to Captain Swan's inclination, gave Captain Townly part of the Flower which we took ashore. Afterwards we gave the Woman some Cloaths for her and her Children, and put her and two of them ashore ; but one of them, a very pretty Boy, about 7 or 8 years old, Captain Swan kept. The Woman cried, and begg'd hard to have him; but Captain Swan would not, but promis'd to make much of him, and was as good 251 An.1685 The Coasting along. good as his word. He proved afterwards a very fine Boy for Wit, Courage, and Dexterity ; I have often wonder'd at his Expreffions and Actions. [---+++] The 21st day in the evening we failed hence with the Land-wind. The Land-winds on this part of the Coaft are at N. and the Sea-winds at W.S.W. We had fair weather, and coafted along to the Weftward. The Land is high, and full of ragged Hills ; and Weft from thefe ragged Hills the Land makes many pleafant and fruitful Valleys among the Mountains. The 25th day we were abreft of a very remarkable Hill, which towring above the reft of its fellows, is divided in the top, and makes two fmall parts. It is in lat. 18 d. 8 m. North. The Spaniards make mention of a Town called Thelupan near this Hill, which we would have vifited if we could have found the way to it. The 26th day Captain Swan and Captain Townly, with 200 Men, of whom I was one, went in our Canoas to feek for the City of Colima, a rich place by report, but how far within Land I could never learn: for as I faid before, here is no Trade by Sea, and therefore we could never get Guides to inform us or conduct us to any Town, but one or two, on this Coaft : and there is never a Town that lieth open to the Sea but Acapulco ; and therefore our fearch was commonly fruitlefs, as now : for, we rowed above 20 leagues along fhore, and found it a very bad Coaft to land: we faw no Houfe, nor fign of In- habitants, although we paft by a fine Valley, called the Valley of Maguella: only at two places, the one at our firft fetting out on this Expedttion, and the other at the end of it, we faw a Horfeman fet, as we fuppofed, as a Centinel, to watch us. At both places we landed with difficulty, and at each place we followed the track of the Horfe on the fandy Bay; but where they entered the Woods we loft the track, and although we diligently fearcht for [+++---] 252 An.1685 The Volcan and Valley of Colima. for it, yet we could find it no more, fo we were perfectly at a lofs to find out the Houfes or Town they came from. The 28th day, being tired and hopelefs to find any Town, we went aboard our Ships, that were now come abreft of the place where we were : for always when we leave our Ships, we either order a certain place of meeting, or elfe leave them a fign to know where we are by making one or more great Smoaks : yet we had all like to have been ruin'd by fuch a fignal as this in a former Voyage under Captain Sharp, when we made that unfortunate attempt upon Arica, which is mentioned in the Hiftory of the Buccaneers. [---+++] For upon the routing our Men, and taking feveral of them, fome of thofe fo taken told the Spaniards, that it was agreed between them and their Com- panions on board to make two great Smokes at a diftance from each other, affoon as the Town fhould be taken, as a fignal to the Ship, that it might fafely enter the Harbour. The Spaniards made thefe Smokes prefently: I was then among thofe who ftay'd on board : and whether the fignal was not fo exactly made, or fome other difcourage- ment happen'd, I remember not: but we forbore going in, till we faw our fcatter'd Crew coming off in their Canoas. Had we entred the Port upon the falfe fignal we muft have been taken or funk ; for we muft have paft clofe by the Fort, and could have had no Wind to bring us out, till the Land- wind fhould rife in the night. [---+++] But to our prefent Voyage: After we came a- board we faw the Volcan of Colima. This is a very high Mountain, in about 18 d. 36 m. North, ftanding 5 or 6 leagues from the Sea, in the midft of a pleafant Valley. It appears with 2 fharp peeks, from each of which there do always iffue flames of fire or fmoke. The Valley in which this Volcan ftands is called the Valley of Colima, from the Town itfelf [+++---] 253 An.1685 Valley of Colima. itfelf which ftands there not far from the Volcan. The Town is faid to be great and rich, the chief of all its Neighborhood : and the Valley in which it is feated, by the relation which the Spaniards give of it, is the moft pleafant and fruitful Valley in all the Kingdom of Mexico. This Valley is about 10 or 12 leagues wide by the Sea, where it makes a fmall Bay: but how far the Vale runs into the Country I know not. It is faid to be full of Cacao gardens, fields of Corn, Wheat, and Plantain- walks. The neighbouring Sea is bounded with a fandy fhore ; but there is no going afhore for the violence of the waves. The Land within it is low all along, and Woody for about 2 leagues from the Eaft fide; at the end of the Woods there is a deep River runs out into the Sea: but it hath fuch a great Bar, or Sandy fhole, that when we were here no Boat or Canoa could poffibly enter, the Sea running fo high upon the Bar: otherwife, I judge, we fhould have made fome farther difcove- ry into this pleafant Valley. On the Weft fide of the River the Savannah land begins, and runs to the other fide of the Valley. We had but little wind when we came aboard; therefore we lay off this Bay that afternoon and the night enfuing. [---+++] The 29th day our Captains went away from our Ships with 200 men, intending at the firft conve- nient place to land and fearch about for a path: for the Spanish Books make mention of 2 or 3 other Towns hereabouts, efpecially one called Sallagua, to the Weft of this Bay. Our Canoas rowed along as near the fhore as they could; but the Sea went fo high that they could not land. About 10 or 11 a clock 2 Horfemen came near the fhore, and one of them took a Bottle out of his pocket, and drank to our men: While he was drinking, one of our men fnatcht up his Gun, and let drive at him, and kill'd his Horfe: fo his confort immediately fet Spurs to his [+++---] 254 An.1685 Port of Sallagua. his Horfe and rode away, leaving the other to come after afoot. But he being Booted made but flow hafte; therefore 2 of our men fript them- felves, and fwam afhore to take him: but he had a Macheat, or long Knife, wherewith he kept them both from feizing him, they having nothing in their hands wherewith to defend themfelves, or offend him. The 30th day our men came all a- board again; for they could not find any place to land in. [---+++] The firft day of December we paffed by the Port of Sallagua. This Port is in lat. 18 d. 52 m. It is only a pretty deep Bay, divided in the middle with a rocky point, which makes, as it were, two Har- bours. Ships may ride fecurely in either, but the Weft Harbour is the beft: there is good anchoring any where in 10 or 12 fathom, and a Brook of frefh Water runs into the Sea. Here we faw a great new thatched Houfe, and a great many Spaniards both Horfe and Foot, with Drums beating, and Co- lours flying, in defiance of us as we thought. We took no notice of them till the next morning, and then we landed about 200 Men to try their Cou- rage: but they prefently withdrew. The Foot ne- ver ftay'd to exchange one fhot, but the Horfemen ftay'd till 2 or 3 were knocked down, and then they drew off; our Men purfuing them: At laft 2 of our Men took 2 Horfes that had loft their Ri- ders, and mounting them, rode after the Spaniards full drive till they came among them, thinking to have taken a Prifoner for Intelligence, but had like to have been taken themfelves: for 4 Spaniards fur- rounded them, after they had difcharged their Pi- ftols, and unhorfed them; and if fome of our beft Footmen had not come to their refcue, they muft have yielded, or have been killed. They were both cut in 2 or 3 places, but their wounds were not mortal. The 4 Spaniards got away before our Men could [+++---] 255 An.1685 Oarrha. The Author taken fick. could hurt them, and mounting their Horfes fpeed- ed after their Conforts, who were marched away into the Country. Our Men finding a broad Road leading into the Country, followed it about 4 leagues in a dry ftony Country, full of fhort Woods: but finding no fign of Inhabitants they returned again. In their way back they took two Mulatto's, who were not able to march as faft as their Conforts; therefore they had skulked in the Woods, and by that means thought to have efcaped our Men. Thefe Prifoners informed us, that this great Road did lead to a great City called Oarrha, from whence many of thofe Horfemen before fpoken of came: that this City was diftant from hence as far as a Horfe will go in 4 days; and that there is no place of confequence nearer: that the Country is very poor, and thinly inhabited. They faid alfo, that thefe Men came to affift the Phillippine Ship, that was every day expected here, to put afhore Paffengers for Mexico. The Spanish Pilot- Books mention a Town alfo called Sallagua here- abouts: but we could not find it, nor hear any thing of it by our Prifoners. [---+++] We now intended to cruize off of Cape Corrien- tes to wait for the Phillippine Ship. So the 6th day of December we fet fail, coafting to the Weftwards, towards Cape Corrientes. We had fair weather, and but little Wind: the Sea breezes at N. W. and the Land-wind at N. The Land is of an indifferent heighth, full of ragged points, which at a diftance appear like Iflands: the Country is very woody, but the Trees are not high, nor very big. [---+++] Here I was taken fick of a Fever and Ague that afterwards turned to a Dropfy, which I laboured under a long time after: and many of our Men died of this diftemper, though our Surgeons ufed their greateft skill to preferve their lives. The Dropfy is a general diftemper on this Coaft, and the Natives fay, [+++---] 256 An.1685 Cape Corrientes. fay, that the beft remedy they can find for it is the Stone or Cod of an Allegator (of which they have 4, one near each Leg, within the Flefh) pulverized and drunk in Water: this Receipt we alfo found mentioned in an Almanack made at Mexico: I would have tried it, but we found no Allegators here, though there are feveral. [---+++] There are many good Harbours between Salla- gua and Cape Corrientes: but we paffed by them all. As we drew near the Cape, the Land by the Sea appeared of an indifferent heighth, full of white Cliffs; but in the Country the Land is high and barren, and full of fharp peeked Hills, unpleafant to the fight. To the Weft of this ragged Land is a chain of Mountains running parallel with the fhore: they end on the Weft with a gentle defcent; but on the Eaft fide they keep their heighth, ending with a high fteep Mountain, which hath 3 fmall fharp peeked tops, fomewhat refembling a Crown; and therefore called by the Spaniards, Coronada, the Crown Land. [---+++] The 11th day we were fair in fight of Cape Cor- rientes, it bore N. by W. and the Crown Land bore North. The Cape is of an indifferent heighth, with fteep Rocks to the Sea. It is flat and even on the top, clothed with Woods: the Land in the Country is high and doubled. This Cape lieth in 20 d. 28 m. North. I find its longitude from Te- nariff to be 230 d. 56 m. but I keep my longitude Weftward, according to our courfe, and according to this reckoning, I find it is from the Lizard in England 121 d. 41 m. fo that the difference of time is 8 hours, and almoft 6 minutes. [---+++] Here we had refolved to cruize for the Phillippine Ship, becaufe fhe always makes this Cape in her Voyage homeward. We were (as I have faid) 4 Ships in company; Captain Swan, and his Ten- der; Captain Townly, and his Tender. It was fo ordered [+++---] 257 An.1685 Ifles of Chametly. ordered, that Captain Swan fhould lye 8 or 10 leagues off fhore, and the reft about a league di- ftant each from other, between him and the Cape, that fo we might not mifs the Phillippine Ship: but we wanted Provifion; and therefore we fent Cap- tain Townly's Bark, with 50 or 60 men to the Weft of the Cape, to fearch about for fome Town or Plantations, where we might get Provifion of any fort. The reft of us in the mean time cruizing in our ftations. The 17th day the Bark came to us again, but had got nothing, for they could not get about the Cape, becaufe the wind on this Coaft is commonly between the N. W. and the S. W. which makes it very difficult getting to the Weftward; but they left 4 Canoas with 46 men at the Cape, who refolved to row to the Weftward. The 18th day we failed to the Keys of Chametly to fill our Water. Thefe Keys or Iflands of Chametly are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eaftward of Cape Corrientes. They are fmall, low, and woody, in- vironed with Rocks; there are 5 of them lying in the form of a half Moon, not a mile from the fhore, and between them and the Main is very good Riding, fecure from any Wind. The Spani- ards do report, that here live Fishermen, to fifh for the Inhabitants of the City of Purification. This is said to be a large Town, the beft hereabouts; but is 14 leagues up in the Country. [---+++] The 20th inftant we entered within thefe Iflands, paffing in on the S. E. fide, and anchored between the Ilands and the Main, in 5 fathom clean Sand. Here we found good frefh Water and Wood, and caught plenty of Rock-fifh with Hook and Line, a fort of Fifh I defcrib'd at the Ifle of John Fernando, but we faw no fign of Inhabitants, befides 2 or 4 old Hutts; therefore I do believe that the Spanifh, or Indian Fishermen come hither only at Lent, or fome other fuch feafon, but that they do not live here [+++---] 258 An.1685 Valderas, a pleafant Valley. here conftantly. The 21ft day Captain Townly went away with about 60 men to take an Indian Village, 7 or 8 leagues from hence to the Weftward more towards the Cape, and the next day we went to cruize off the Cape, where Captain Townly was to meet us. The 24th day, as we were cruizing off the Cape, the 4 Canoas before mentioned which Captain Townly's Bark left at the Cape, came off to us. They, after the Bark left them, paft to the Weft of the Cape, and rowed into the Valley Val- deras, or perhaps Val d' Iris; for it fignifies the Valley of Flags. [---+++] This Valley lies in the bottom of a pretty deep Bay, that runs in between Cape Corrientes on the S. E. and the point of Pontique on the N. W. which two places are about 10 leagues afunder. The Valley is about 3 leagues wide; there is a level fandy Bay againft the Sea, and good fmooth land- ing. In the midft of the Bay is a fine River, whereinto Boats may enter; but it is brackifh at the latter end of the dry Seafon, which is in Febru- ary, March, and part of April. I fhall fpeak more of the Seafons in my Chapter of Winds, in the Ap- pendix. This Valley is bounded within Land, with a fmall green Hill, that makes a very gentle de- fcent into the Valley, and affords a very pleafant profpect to Sea-ward. It is inriched with fruitful Savannahs, mixt with Groves of Trees fit for any ufes, befide Fruit Trees in abundance, as Guava's, Oranges and Limes, which here grow wild in fuch plenty, as if Nature had defigned it only for a Garden. The Savannahs are full of fat Bulls and Cows, and fome Horfes; but no Houfe in fight. [---+++] When our Canoas came to this pleafant Valley, they landed 37 men, and marched into the Coun- try feeking for fome Houfes. They had not gone paft 3 mile before they were attackt by 150 Spani- ards, Horfe and Foot: There was a fmall thin Wood [+++---] 259 An.1686 A Skirmifh. Wood clofe by them, into which our men retreat- ed, to fecure themfelves from the fury of the Horfe: Yet the Spaniards rode in among them, and attackt them very furioufly, till the Spanifh Captain, and 17 more, tumbled dead off their Horfes: then the reft retreated, being many of them wounded. We loft 4 men, and had 2 defperately wounded. In this action, the Foot, who were armed with Lances and Swords, and were the greateft number, never made any attack; the Horfe-men had each an abrace of Piftols, and fome fhort Guns. If the Foot had come in, they had certainly deftroy'd all our men. When the skirmifh was over, our men plac'd the two wounded men on Horfes, and came to their Canoas. There they kill'd one of the Horfes, and dreft it; being afraid to venture into the Savannah to kill a Bullock, of which there was ftore. When they had eaten, and fatisfy'd themfelves, they returned aboard. The 25th day, being Chriftmas, we cruized in pretty near the Cape, and fent in 3 Canoas with the Strikers to get Fifh; being defirous to have a Chriftmas dinner. In the afternoon they returned aboard with 3 great Few-fifh, which feafted us all: and the next day we fent afhore our Canoas again, and got 3 or 4 more. [---+++] Captain Townly, who went from us at Chametly, came aboard the 28th day, and brought about 40 bufhels of Maiz. He had landed to the Eaftward of Cape Corrientes, and march'd to an Indian Village that is 4 or 5 leagues in the Country. The Indians feeing him coming, fet 2 houfes on fire, that were full of Maiz, and run away: Yet he and his men got, in other houfes, as much as they could bring down on their backs; which he brought aboard. [---+++] We cruized off the Cape till the firft day of Ja- nuary, 1686, and then made towards the Valley Valderas, to hunt, for Beef: and before night we anchored in the bottom of the Bay, in 60 fathom wa- [+++---] 260 An.1686 Their Defigns on this Coaft. water, a mile from the fhore. Here we ftay'd hunting till the 7th day, and Captain Swan and Captain Townly went afhore every morning with about 240 men, and marched to a fmall hill; where they remain'd with 50 or 60 men to watch the Spaniards, who appear'd in great companies on other hills not far diftant, but did never attempt any thing againft our men. Here we kill'd and salted above 2 months meat, befides what we fpent frefh: and might have kill'd as much more, if we had been better ftor'd with Salt. Our hopes of meeting the Phillippine Ship were now over; for we did all conclude, that while we were neceflitated to hunt here for Provifions, fhe was paft by to the Eaftward, as indeed fhe was, as we did underftand afterwards by Prifoners. So this defign fail'd through Captain Townley's eagernefs after the Lima Ship, which he attempted in Acapulco Harbour, as as I have related. For though we took a little Flower hard by, yet the fame Guide which told us of that Ship would have conducted us where we might had ftore of Beef and Maiz: but inftead thereof we loft both our time and the opportunity of providing our felves, and fo were forced to be victualling when we fhould have been cruizing off Cape Corrientes in expectation of the Manila Ship. [---+++] Hitherto we had coafted along here with 2 diffe- rent defigns. The one was to get the Manila Ship, which would have enriched us beyond meafure, and this Captain Townly was moft for. Sir Tho. Ca- vendifh formerly took the Manila Ship off Cape St. Lucas in California, (where we alfo would have waited for her, had we been early enough ftored with Provifions, to have met her there) and threw much rich Goods over-board. The other defign, which Captain Swan and our Crew were moft for, was to fearch along the Coaft for rich Towns, and Mines chiefly of Gold and Silver, which we were affured 261 An. 1686 Darien Indians. Point Pontique. affured were in this Country, and we hoped near the fhore: not knowing (as we afterwards found) that it was in effect an Inland Country, its Wealth remote from the South Sea Coaft, and having little or no commerce with it: its Trade being driven Eaftward with Europe, by La Vera Cruz. Yet we had ftill fome expectation of Mines, and fo refolved to fteer on farther Northward. But Captain Town- ly, who had no other defign in coming on this Coaft, but to meet this Ship, refolved to return again towards the Coaft of Peru. [---+++] In all this Voyage on the Mexican Coaft we had with us a Captain, and 2 or 3 of his Men of our friendly Indians of the Ifthmus of Darien; who ha- ving conducted over fome Parties of our Privateers, and expreffing a defire to go along with us, were received and kindly entertained aboard our Ships; and we were pleas'd in having, by this means, Guides ready provided, fhould we be for returning over Land, as feveral of us thought to do, rather than fail round about. But at this time, we of Captain Swan's Ship defigning farther to the North Weft, and Captain Townly going back, we com- mitted thefe our Indian Friends to his care, to carry them home. So here we parted; he to the Eaft- ward, and we to the Weftward, intending to fearch as far to the Weftward as the Spaniards were fettled. [---+++] It was the 7th day of January in the morning when we failed from this pleafant Valley. The Wind was at N. E. and the weather fair. At 11 a clock the Sea-wind came at N. W. Before night we paffed by Point Pontique; this is the Weft point of the Bay of the Valley of Valderas, and is diftant from Cape Corrientes 10 leagues. This point is in lat. 20 d. 50 m. North: it is high, round, rocky and barren. At a diftance it appears like an Ifland. A league to the Weft of this point are two fmall bar- ren [+++---] 262 An. 1686 Other Ifles of Chametly. ren Iflands, called the Iflands of Pontique. There are feveral high, fharp, white Rocks, that lye fcat- tering about them: we paft between thefe rocky Iflands on the left, and the Main on the right; for there is no danger. The Sea-coaft beyond this point runs Northward for about 18 leagues, making ma- ny ragged points, with fmall fandy Bays between them. The Land by the Sea fide is low and pret- ty woody: but in the Country full of high, fharp, barren, rugged, unpleafant Hills. [---+++] The 14th day we had fight of a fmall white Rock, which appears very much like a Ship under fail. This Rock is in lat. 21 d. 15 m. it is 3 leagues from the Main. There is a good Channel between it and the Main, where you will have 12 or 14 fathom water near the Ifland; but running nearer the Main you will have gradual foundings, till you come in with the fhore. At night we anchored in 6 fathom water, near a league from the Main, in good oazy ground. We caught a great many Cat- fifh here, and at feveral places on this Coaft, both before and after this. [---+++] From this Ifland the Land runs more Northerly, making a fair fandy Bay: But the Sea falls in with fuch violence on the Shore, that there is no land- ing, but very good anchoring on all the Coaft, and gradual foundings. About a league off fhore you will have 6 fathom, and 4 mile off fhore you will have 7 fathom water. We came to an anchor every evening; and in the mornings we failed off with the Land-wind; which we found at N. E. and the Sea-breezes at N. W. [---+++] The 20th day we anchored about 3 miles on the Eaft fide of the Iflands Chametly, different from thofe of that name before-mentioned: for thefe are 6 fmall Iflands in lat. 23 d. 11 m. a little to the South of the Tropick of Cancer, and about 3 leagues from the Main, where a Salt-Lake hath its out-let [+++---] 263 The Penguin Fruit, yellow and red. An. 1686 into the Sea. Thefe Ifles are of an indifferent heighth: Some of them have a few fhrubby bufhes; the reft are bare of any fort of Wood. They are rocky round by the Sea: only one or two of them have fandy Bays on the North fide. There is a fort of Fruit growing on thefe Iflands called Penguins; and 'tis all the Fruit they have. [---+++] The Penguin Fruit is of two forts, the yellow and the red. The yellow Penguin grows on a green ftem, as big as a Man's Arm, above a foot high from the ground: The leaves of this ftalk are half a foot long, and an inch broad; the edges full of fharp prickles. The Fruit grows at the head of the ftalk, in 2 or 3 great clufters, 16 or 20 in a clufter. The Fruit is as big as a Pullets Egg, of a round form, and in colour yellow. It has a thick skin or rind, and the infide is full of fmall black feeds, mixt among the Fruit. It is a fharp pleafant Fruit. The red Penguin is of the bignefs and colour of a fmall dry Onion, and is in fhape much like a Nine-pin; for it grows, not on a ftalk, or ftem, as the other, but one end on the ground, the other ftanding up- right. 60 or 70 grow thus together as clofe as they can ftand one by another, and all from the fame root, or clufter of roots. Thefe Penguins are en- compaft or fenced with long leaves, about a foot and an half, or 2 foot long, and prickly like the former; and the Fruit too is much alike. They are both wholfom, and never offend the ftomach: but thofe that eat many will find a heat or tickling in their Fundament. They grow fo plentifully in the Bay of Campeachy, that there is no paffing for their high prickly leaves. [---+++] There are fome Guanoes on thefe Iflands, but no other fort of Land Animal. The Bays about the Iflands are fometimes vifited with Seal, and this was the firft place where I had feen any of thefe Animals on the North fide of the Equator, in thefe Seas. [+++---] 264 Pearl fifhery at California. An. 1686 Seas. For the Fifh on this fandy Coaft lye moft in the Lagunes or Salt-lakes, and mouths of Rivers; but the Seals come not fo much there, as I judge: for this being no rocky Coaft, where Fifh refort moft, there feems to be but little food for the Seals, unlefs they will venture upon Cat fifh. [---+++] Captain Swan went away from hence with 100 Men, in our Canoas, to the Northward, to feek for the River Coolecan, poffibly the fame with the River of Paftla, which fome Maps lay down in the Province or Region of Cullacan. This River lieth in about 24 d. N. lat. We were informed, that there is a fair and rich Spanifh Town feated on the Eaft fide of it, with Savannahs about it, full of Bulls and Cows; and that the Inhabitants of this Town pafs over in Boats to the Ifland California, where they fifh for Pearl. I have been told fince by a Spaniard, that faid he had been at the Ifland California, that there are great plenty of Pearl-Oyfters there, and that the Native Indians of California, near the Pearl. fifhery, are mortal Enemies to the Spaniards. Our Canoas were abfent 3 or 4 days, and faid they had been above 30 leagues but found no River: that the Land by the Sea was low, and all fandy Bay; but fuch a great Sea, that there was no landing They met us in their return in the lat. 23 d. 30 m. coaft- ing along fhore after them towards Cullacan; fo we returned again to the Eaftward. This was the far- theft that I was to the North, on this Coaft. [---+++] 6 or 7 leagues N. N. W. from the Ifles of Cha- metly there is a fmall narrow entrance into a Lake, which runs about 12 leagues Eafterly, parallel with the fhore, making many fmall low Mangrove Iflands. The mouth of this Lake is in lat. about 23 d. 30 m. It is called by the Spaniards Rio de Sal; for it is a Salt Lake. There is Water enough for Boats and Canoas to enter, and fmooth landing af- ter you are in. On the Weft fide of it there is an Houfe, [+++---] 265 Rio de Sal. Maffaclan. An. 1686 Houfe, and an Eftantion, or Farm of large Cattel. Our Men went into the Lake, and landed, and co- ming to the Houfe found 7 or 8 Bufhels of Maiz : but the Cattle were driven away by the Spaniards. yet there our Men took the Owner of the Eftan- tion, and brought him aboard. He faid, that the Beefs were driven a great way into the Country, for fear we fhould kill them. While we lay here, Captain Swan went into this Lake again, and land- ed 150 Men on the N. E. fide, and marched into the Country: About a mile from the landing place, as they were entring a dry Salina, or Salt-pond, they fired at two Indians that croft the way before them : one of them being wounded in the thigh fell down, and being examined, he told our Men, that there was an Indian Town 4 or 5 leagues off, and that the way which they were going would bring them thither. While they were in difcourfe with the Indian they were attacqued by 100 Spanifh Horfemen, who came with a defign to fcare them back; but wanted both Arms and Hearts to do it. Our Men paft on from hence, and in their way marched through a Savannah of long dry Grafs. This the Spaniards fet on fire, thinking to burn them; but that did not hinder our Men from marching forward, though it did trouble them a little. They rambled for want of Guides all this day, and part of the next, before they came to the Town the Indian fpake of. There they found a com- pany of Spaniards and Indians who made head againft them; but were driven out of the Town after a fhort difpute. Here our Chirurgien and one Man more were wounded with Arrows; but none of the reft were hurt. When they came into the Town they found 2 or 3 Indians wounded, who told them that the Name of the Town was Maffa- clan; that there were a few Spaniards living in it, and the reft were Indians: that 5 leagues from this Town there [+++---] 266 River and Town of Rofario. Gold Mines. An. 1686 there were 2 rich Gold Mines, where the Spaniards of Compoftella, which is the chiefeft Town in thefe parts, kept many Slaves and Indians at work for Gold. Here our Men lay that night, and the next morning packt up all the Maiz that they could find, and brought it on their backs to the Canoas, and came aboard. [---+++] We lay here till the 2d of February, and then Captain Swan went away with about 80 Men to the River Rofario: where they landed, and marched to an Indian Town of the fame Name. They found it about 9 mile from the Sea; the way to it fair and even. This was a fine little Town, of about 60 or 70 Houfes, with a fair Church; and it was chiefly inhabited with Indians. They took Prifoners there, which told them, that the River Rofario is rich in Gold, and that the Mines are not above 2 leagues from the Town. Captain Swan did not think it convenient to go to the Mines; but made hafte aboard with the Maiz which he took there, to the quantity of about 80 or 90 Bufhels; and which to us, in the fcarcity we were in of Provifions, was at that time more valuable than all the Gold in the world: and had he gone to the Mines the Spaniards would probably have deftroyed the Corn before his return. The 3d day of February we went with our Ships alfo towards the River Rofario, and anchored the next day againft the Rivers mouth, in 7 fathom, good oazy ground, a league from the fhore. This River is in lat. 22 d. 51 m. N. When you are at an anchor againft this River, you will fee a round Hill, like a Sugar-loaf, a little way within Land, right over the River, and bearing N. E. by N. To the Weftward of that Hill there is another pretty long Hill called by the Spaniards Caput Cavalli, or the Horfe's Head. [---+++] The 7th day Captain Swan came aboard with the Maiz which he got. This was but a fmall quantity for fo many Men as we were, efpecially confidering the [+++---] 267 River of St. Jago. An. 1686 the place we were in, being ftrangers, and having no Pilots to direct or guide us into any River; and we being without all fort of Provifion, but what we were forced to get in this manner from the fhore. And though our Pilot-book directed us well enough to find the Rivers, yet for want of Guides to carry us to the Settlements, we were forced to fearch 2 or 3 days before we could find a place to land: for as I have faid before, befides the Seas being too rough for landing in many places, they have neither Boat, Bark, nor Canoa, that we could ever fee or hear of: and therefore as there are no fuch landing places in thefe Rivers, as there are in the South Seas, fo when we were landed, we did not know which way to go to any Town, except we accidentally met with a path. Indeed the Spaniards and Indians whom we had aboard knew the Names of feveral Rivers, and Towns near them, and knew the Towns when they faw them: but they knew not the way to go to them from the Sea. [---+++] The 8th day Captain Swan fent about 40 men to feek for the River Oleta, which is to the Eaft- ward of the River Rofario. The next day we fol- lowed after with the Ships, having the Wind at W. N. W. and fair weather. In the afternoon our Canoas came again to us, for they could not find the River Oleta; therefore we defigned next for the River St. Jago, to the Eaftward ftill. The 11th day in the evening we anchored againft the mouth of the River, in 7 fathom water, good foft oazy ground, and about 2 mile from the fhore. There was a high white Rock without us, called Maxentelbo. This Rock at a diftance appears like a Ship under fail; it bore from us W. N. W. diftant about 3 leagues. The Hill Zelifco bore S. E. which is a very high Hill in the Country, with a Saddle or bending on the top. The River St. Jago is in lat. 22 d. 15 m. It is one of the principal Rivers on this [+++---] 268 Santa Pecaque. An. 1686 this Coaft; there is 10 foot Water on the bar at low Water, but how much it flows here I know not. The mouth of this River is near half a mile broad, and very fmooth entring. Within the mouth it is broader; for there are 3 or 4 Rivers more meet there, and iffue all out together. The Water is brackifh a great way up; yet there is frefh Water to be had, by digging or making Wells in the fandy Bay, 2 or 3 foot deep, juft at the mouth of the River. [---+++] The 11th day Captain Swan fent 70 men in 4 Canoas into this River, to feek a Town; for al- though we had no intelligence of any, yet the Country appearing very promifing, we did not queftion but they would find Inhabitants before they returned. They fpent 2 days in rowing up and down the Creeks and Rivers; at laft they came to a large Field of Maiz, which was almoft ripe: They immediately fell to gathering as faft as they could, and intended to lade the Canoas; but feeing an Indian that was fet to watch the Corn, they quitted that troublefom and tedious work, and feiz'd him, and brought him aboard, in hopes by his information, to have fome more eafy and ex- pedite way of a fupply, by finding Corn ready cut and dried. He being examined, faid, that there was a Town called Santa Pecaque, 4 leagues from the place where he was taken; and that if we de- figned to go thither, he would undertake to be our Guide. Captain Swan immediately ordered his men to make ready, and the fame evening went away with 8 Canoas and 140 men, taking the Indian for their Guide. [---+++] He rowed about 5 leagues up the River, and landed the next morning. The River at this place was not above Piftol fhot wide, and the Banks pretty high one each fide; and the Land plain and even. He left 23 men to guard the Canoas, and marcht [+++---] 269 City, and Silver Mines of Compoftella. An. 1686 marcht with the reft to the Town. He fet out from the Canoas at 6 a clock in the morning, and reacht the Town by 10. The way thro which he paffed was very plain, part of it Wood-land, part Savannahs. The Savannahs were full of Horfes, Bulls and Cows. The Spaniards feeing him coming run all away; fo he entered the Town without the leaft oppofition. [---+++] This Town of Santa Pecaque ftands on a Plain, in a Savannah, by the fide of a VVood, with many Fruit Trees about it. It is but a fmall Town, but very regular, after the Spanifh mode, with a Parade in the midft. The Houfes fronting the Parade had all Balconies: there were 2 Churches; one againft the Parade, the other at the end of the Town. It is inhabited moft with Spaniards. Their chiefeft occupation is Husbandry. There are alfo fome Carriers, who are imployed by the Merchants of Compoftella, to trade for them to, and from the Mines. [---+++] Compoftella is a rich Town, about 21 leagues from hence. It is the chiefeft in all this part of the King- dom, and is reported to have 70 white Families : which is a great matter in thefe parts; for it may be that fuch a Town hath not lefs than 500 Fami- lies of copper-coloured People, befides the white. The Silver Mines are about 5 or 6 leagues from Santa Pecaque; where, as we were told, the Inha- bitants of Compoftella had fome hundreds of Slaves at work. The Silver here, and all over the King- dom of Mexico, is faid to be finer and richer in pro- portion than that of Potoft or Peru, tho the Oar be not fo abundant; and the Carriers of this Town of Santa Pecaque carry the Oar to Compoftella, where it is refined. Thefe Carriers or Sutlers alfo furnifh the Slaves at the Mines with Maiz, whereof here was great plenty now in the Town defigned for that ufe : here was alfo Sugar, Salt, and Salt-fifh. [+++---] 270 Santa Pecaque pillaged. An. 1686 Captain Swan's only bufinefs at Santa Pecaque was to get Provifion: therefore he ordered his Men to divide themfelves into two parts, and by turns carry down the Provifion to the Canoas; one half remaining in the Town to fecure what they had taken, while the other half were going and co- ming. In the afternoon they caught fome Horfes; and the next morning, being the 17th day, 57 Men, and fome Horfes, went laden with Maiz to the Canoas. They found them, and the Men left to guard them, in good order; though the Spaniards had given them a fmall diverfion, and wounded one Man: but our Men of the Canoas landed, and drove them away. Thefe that came loaded to the Canoas left 7 Men more there, fo that now they were 40 Men to guard the Canoas. At night the other returned, and the 18th day in the morning that half which ftaid the day before at the Town, took their turn of going with every Man his bur- then, and 24 Horfes laden. Before they returned Captain Swan and his other Men at the Town caught a Prifoner, who faid, that there were near a thoufand Men of all colours, Spaniards and Indians, Negroes and Mulatto's, in arms, at a place called St. Jago, but 3 leagues off, the chief Town on this River; that the Spaniards were armed with Guns and Piftols, and the copper-colour'd with Swords and Lances. Captain Swan, fearing the ill confe- quence of feparating his fmall company, was re- folved the next day to march away with the whole party; and therefore he ordered his Men to catch as many Horfes as they could, that they might carry the more provifion with them. Accordingly, the next day, being the 19th day of February 1686. Captain Swan called out his Men betimes to be gone; but they refufed to go, and faid, that they would not leave the Town till all the Provifion was in the Canoas; Therefore he was forced to yield 271 An.1686 50 of their Men killed. yield to them, and suffered half the company to go as before: They had now 54 Horses laden, which Captain Swan ordered to be tied one to another, and the Men to go in two bodies, 25 before, and as many behind: but the Men would go at their own rate, every Man leading his Horse. The Spaniards observed their manner of marching, and laid an Ambush about a mile from the Town, which they managed with such success, that falling on our body of Men, who were guarding the Corn to the Canoes, they kill'd them every one. Captain Swan hearing the report of their Guns, ordered his Men, who were then in the Town with him, to march out to their assistance: but some opposed him, de- spising their Enemies; till two of the Spaniards Horses, that had lost their Riders, came galloping into the Town in a great fright, both bridled and and saddled, with each a pair of Holsters by their sides, and one had a Carabine newly discharged: which was an apparent token that our Men had been engaged, and that by Men better armed than they imagined they should meet with. Therefore Captain Swan immediately marcht out of the Town, and his Men all followed him; and when he came to the place where the Engagement had been, he saw all his Men that went out in the morn- ing lying dead. They were stript, and so cut and mangl'd, that he scarce knew one Man. Captain Swan had not more Men then with him, than those were who lay dead before him, yet the Spaniards never came to oppose him, but kept at a great di- stance; for 'tis probable the Spaniards had not cut off so many Men of ours, but with the loss of a great many of their own. So he marched down to the Canoes, and came aboard the Ship with the Maiz that was already in the Canoes. We had a- bout 50 Men killed, and among the rest my inge- nious friend Mr. Ringrose was one, who wrote that Part [---+++] [+++---] 272 An.1686 Of the Gulf of California. Part of the History of the Buccaneers, which relates to Captain Sharp. He was at this time Cape-Merchant, or Super-cargo of Captain Swan s Ship. He had no mind to this Voyage; but was necessitated to en- gage in it, or starve. This loss discouraged us from attempting any thing more hereabouts. Therefore Captain Swan proposed to go to Cape St. Lucas on California to careen. He had two reasons for this: first, that he thought he could lye there secure from the Spaniards; and next, that if he could get a commerce with the Indians there, he might make a discovery in the Lake of California; and by their assistance try for some of the Plate of New Mexico. This Lake of California (for so the Sea, Channel or Streight, between that and the Continent, is called) is but little known to the Spaniards, by what I could ever learn; for their Drafts do not agree about it. Some of them do make California an Island, but give no manner of account of the Tides flowing in the Lake, or what depth of Water there is, or of the Harbours, Rivers, or Creeks, that border on it: Whereas on the West side of the Island, toward the Asiatick Coast, their Pilot-book gives an account of the Coast from Cape St. Lucas to 40 d. N. Some of their Drafts newly made do make California to join to the Main. I do believe that the Spaniards do not care to have this Lake dis- covered, for fear left other European Nations should get knowledge of it, and by that means visit the Mines of New Mexico. We heard that not long before our arrival here, the Indians in the Province of New Mexico made an insurrection, and destroy- ed most of the Spaniards there, but that some of them flying towards the Gulf or Lake of California, made Canoes in that Lake and got safe away; so that the Indians of the Lake of California, seem to be at perfect enmity with the Spaniards. We had an [---+++] [+++---] 273 An.1686 Kingdom of New Mexico. an o'd intelligent Spaniard now aboard, who said that he spoke with a Frier that made his escape a- mong them. New Mexico, by report of several English Prisoners there, and Spaniards I have met with, lyeth N. W. from Old Mexico between 4 and 500 leagues, and the biggest part of the Treasure which is found in this Kingdom, is in that Province; but without doubt there are plenty of Mines in other parts, as well as in this part of the Kingdom where we now were, as in other places; and probably, on the Main, bordering on the Lake of California; al- though not yet discovered by the Spaniards who have Mines enough, and therefore, as yet, have no rea- son to discover more. In my opinion, here might be very advantageous Discoveries made by any that would attempt it: for the Spaniards have more than they can well manage. I know yet, they would lie like the Dog in the Man- ger; altho not able to eat themselves, yet they would endeavour to hinder others. But the Voyage thither being so far, I take that to be one reason that hath hindered the Discoveries of these parts: yet it is possible, that a man may find a nearer way hither than we came; I mean by the North West. I know there have been divers attempts made about a North West Passage, and all unsuccessful: yet I am of opinion, that such a Passage may be found. All our Countrymen that have gone to discover the N. W. Passage, have endeavoured to pass to the Westward, beginning their search along Davis's, or Hudsons Bay. But if I was to go on this Discovery, I would go first into the South Seas, bend my course from thence along by California; and that way seek a Passage back into the West Seas: For as others have spent the Summer, in first searching on this more known side nearer home, and so before they got through, the time of the year [---+++] [+++---] 274 An.1686 Of the North-West and North-East Passages. year obliged them to give over their search, and provide for a long course back again, for fear of being left in the Winter; on the contrary, I would search first on the less known Coasts of the South Sea side; and then, as the year past away, I should need no retreat, for I should come farther into my knowledge, if I succeeded in my attempt, and should be without that dread and fear which the others must have in passing from the known to the un- known; who for ought I know gave over their search just as they were on the point of accomplish- ing their desires. I would take the same method if I was to go to discover the North East Passage. I would winter about Japan, Corea, or the North East part of Chi- na; and taking the Spring and Summer before me, I would make my first Trial on the Coast of Tar- tary: wherein, if I succeeded, I should come into some known parts; and have a great deal of time before me to reach Archangel or some other Port. Captain Wood, indeed says, this North East Passage is not to be found for Ice: but how often do we see that sometimes designs have been given over as impossible, and at another time, and by other ways, those very things have been accomplished? But e- nough of this. The next day after that fatal Skirmish near Santa Pecaque Captain Swan ordered all our Water to be fill'd, and to get ready to sail. The 21st day we failed from hence, directing our course towards Ca- lifornia: we had the Wind at N. W. and W. N. W. a small gale, with a great Sea out of the West. We past by 3 Islands called the Maria's. After we past these Islands we had much Wind at N. N. W. and N. W., and at N. with thick rainy weather. We beat till the 6th day of February, but it was against a brisk Wind, and proved labour in vain. For we were now within reach of the Land Trade-wind, which [---+++] [+++---] 275 An.1686 The Maria's Islands. which was opposite to us: but would we go to Cali- fornia upon any Discovery or otherwise, we should bear 60 or 70 leagues off from shore; where we should avoid the Land-winds, and have the benefit of the true Easterly Trade-wind. Finding therefore that we got nothing, but ra- ther lost ground, being then in 21 d. 5 m. N. we steered away more to the Eastward again for the Islands Maria's, and the 7th day we came to an an- chor at the East end of the middle Island, in 8 fa- thom Water, good clean Sand. The Maria's are three uninhabited Islands in lat. 21 d. 40 m. they are distant from Cape St. Lucas on California 40 leagues, bearing West South West, and they are distant from Cape Corrientes 20 leagues, bearing upon the same points of the Com- pass with Cape St. Lucas. They stretch N. W. and S.E. about 14 leagues. There are 2 or 3 small high Rocks near them: The Westermost of them is the biggest Island of the three; and they are all three of an indifferent heighth. The soil is stony and dry; the land, in most places, is covered with a shrubby sort of Wood, very thick and trouble- some to pass through. In some places there is plen- ty of straight large Cedars; though speaking of the places where I have found Cedars, Chap. 3. I for- got to mention this place. The Spaniards make mention of them in other places: but I speak of those which I have seen. All round by the Sea side it is sandy; and there is produced a green prickly Plant, whose leaves are much like the Penguin-leaf, and the root like the root of a Sempervive, but much larger. This root being bak'd in an Oven is good to eat: and the Indians on California, as I have been informed, have great part of their subsistence from these roots. We made an Oven in a sandy Bank; and baked of these Roots, and I eat of them: but none of us greatly cared for them. They taste ex- actly [---+++] [+++---] 276 An.1686 Prince George's Island. actly like the Roots of our English Burdocks boil'd, of which I have eaten. Here are, plenty of Gua- noes and Raccoons (a large sort of Rat) and Indian Conies, and abundance of large Pigeons and Tur- tle-Doves. The Sea is also pretty well stored with Fish, and Turtle or Tortoise, and Seal. This is the second place on this Coast where I did see any Seal: and this place helps to confirm what I have observed, that they are seldom seen but where there is plenty of Fish. Captain Swan gave the middle Island the Name of Prince George's Island. The 8th day we run nearer the Island, and an- chored in 5 fathom, and moored Head and Stern, and unrigg'd both Ship and Bark in order to careen. Here Captain Swan proposed to go into the East Indies. Many were well pleased with the Voyage; but some thought, such was their ignorance, that he would carry them out of the world; for about 2 thirds of our Men did not think there was any such way to be found: but at last he gain'd their consents. At our first coming hither we did eat nothing but Seal; but after the first 2 or 3 days our Strikers brought aboard Turtle every day; on which we fed all the time that we lay here, and saved our Maiz for our Voyage. Here also we measured all our Maiz, and found we had about 80 Bushels. This we divided into 3 parts; one for the Bark, and two for the Ship; our Men were divided also, 100 men aboard the Ship, and 50 aboard the Bark, besides 3 or 4 Slaves in each. I had been a long time sick of a Dropsy, a di- stemper, whereof, as I said before, many of our men died; so here I was laid and covered all but my head in the hot Sand: I indured it near half an hour, and then was taken out and laid to sweat in a Tent. I did sweat exceedingly while I was in the Sand, and I do believe it did me much good, for I grew well soon after. We [---+++] [+++---] 277 An.1686 Of the Commerce of Mexico. We staid here till the 26th day, and then both Vessels being clean, we sailed to the Valley of Balderas to water, for we could not do it here now. In the wet Season indeed here is Water e- nough, for the Brooks then run down plentifully; but now, though there was Water, yet it was bad filling, it being a great way to fetch it from the holes were it lodged. The 28th day we anchored in the bottom of the Bay the Valley of Balderas, right against the River, where we watered before: but this River was brackish now in the dry season; and therefore we went 2 or 3 leagues nearer Cape Cor- rientes, and anchored by a small round Island, not half a mile from the shore. The Island is about 4 leagues to the Northward of the Cape; and the Brook where we filled our water is just within the Island, upon the Main. Here our Strikers struck 9 or 10 Few-fish; some we did eat, and the rest we salted: and the 29th day we fill'd 32 Tuns of very good water. Having thus provided ourselves, we had nothing more to do, but to put in execution our intended expedition to the East Indies, in hopes of some bet- ter success there, than we had met with on this little frequented Coast. We came on it full of ex- pectations; for besides the richness of the Country, and the probability of finding some Sea Ports worth visiting, we persuaded ourselves that there must needs be Shipping and Trade here, and that Acapulco and La Vera Cruz were to the Kingdom of Mexico, what Panama and Portobel are to that of Pe- ru, viz. Marts for carrying on a constant Commerce between the South and North Seas, as indeed they are. But whereas we expected that this Commerce should be managed by Sea, we found ourselves mistaken: that of Mexico being almost wholly a Land-trade, and managed more by Mules than by Ships: So that instead of profit we met with little on [---+++] [+++---] 278 An.1686 They leave the Mexican Coast. on this Coast, besides fatigues, hardships and losses, and so were the more easily induced to try what better fortune we might have in the East Indies. But to do right to Captain Swan, he had no in- tention to be as a Privateer in the East Indies; but, as he hath often assured me with his own mouth, he resolved to take the first opportunity of return- ing to England: So that he feigned a compliance with some of his men, who were bent upon going to cruize at Manila, that he might have leisure to take some favourable opportunity of quitting the Privateer Trade.