[ch10 is page 279-304] 279 An.1686 Their Provisions for crossing the Seas. C H A P. X. [---+++] Their Departure from Cape Corrientes for the Ladrone Islands, and the East Indies. Their Course thither, and Accidents by the way; with a Table of each days Run, &c. Of the different accounts of the breadth of these Seas. Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands. The Coco-nut Tree, fruit, &c. The Toddi, or Arack that distils from it; with other uses that are made of it. Coire Cables. The Lime, or Crab Limon. The Bread fruit. The Na- tive Indians of Guam. Their Proe's, a re- markable sort of Boats: and of those used in the East Indies. The State of Guam: and the Provisions with which they were furnisht there. [---+++] I Have given an account in the last Chapter of the resolutions we took of going over to the East Indies. But having more calmly considered on the length of our Voyage, from hence to Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands, which is the first place that we could touch at, and there also being not certain to find Provisions, most of our men were almost daunted at the thoughts of it; for we had not 60 days Provision, at a little more than half a pint of Maiz a day for each man, and no other Provision except 3 Meals of salted Jew-fish; and we had a great many Rats aboard, which we could not hinder from eating part of our Maiz. Beside, the great distance between Cape Corrientes and Guam: which is variously set down. The Spa- niards, [+++---] 280 An.1686 The Tediousness of this Voyage. niards, who have the greatest reason to know best, make it to be between 2300 and 2400 leagues; our Books also reckon it differently, between 90 and 100 degrees, which all comes short indeed of 2000 leagues, but even that was a Voyage enough to frighten us, considering our scanty Provisions. Captain Swan to encourage his men to go with him, persuaded them that the English Books did give the best account of the distance; his rea- sons were many, although but weak. He urged among the rest, that Sir Thomas Candish and Sir Francis Drake, did run it in less than 50 days, and that he did not question but that our Ships were better failers, than those which were built in that age, and that he did not doubt to get there in little more than 40 days: This being the best time in the year for breezes, which undoubtedly is the reason that the Spaniards set out from Acapul- co about this time; and that although they are 60 days in their Voyage, it is because they are great Ships, deep laden, and very heavy failers; besides, they wanting nothing are in no great haste in their way, but sail with a great deal of their usual cau- tion. And when they come near the Island Guam, they lye by in the night for a week, before they make Land. In prudence we also should have contriv'd to lye by in the night when we came near Land, for otherwise we might have run ashore , or have outsailed the Islands, and lost sight of them before morning. But our bold adventurers seldom pro- ceed with such wariness when in any freights. [---+++] But of all Captain Swan's arguments, that which prevailed most with them, has his promising them, as I have said, to cruise off the Manila's. So he and his men being now agreed, and they incouraged with the hope of gain, which works its way thro all difficulties, we set out from Cape Corrientes March the 31st, 1686. We were 2 Ships in Company, Captain 281 An.1686 The Courſe from Cape Corrientes to Guam. Captain Swan s Ship, and a Bark commanded un- der Captain Swan, by Captain Teat, and we were 150 men, 100 aboard of the Ship, and 50 aboard the Bark, beſide ſlaves, as I ſaid. [---+++] We had a ſmall Land-wind at E. N. E. which carried us 3 or 4 leagues, then the Sea-wind came at W. N. W. a freſh gale, ſo we ſteered away S. W. By 6 a clock in the evening we were about 9 leagues S. W. from the Cape, then we met a Land-wind which blew freſh all night, and the next morning about 10 a clock we had the Sea breez at N. N. E. ſo that at noon we were 20 leagues from the Cape. It blew a freſh gale of Wind, which carried us off into the true Trade-wind, (of the difference of which Trade-winds I ſhall ſpeak in the Chapter of Winds, in the Appendix) for although the con- ſtant Sea breez near the ſhore is at W. N. W. yet the true Trade off at Sea, when you are clear of the Land-winds, is at E. N. E. At firſt we had it at N. N. E. ſo it came about Northerly, and then to the Eaſt as we run off. At 250 leagues diſtance from the ſhore we had it at E. N. E. and there it ſtood till we came within 40 leagues of Guam. When we had eaten up our 3 meals of ſalted Few- fiſh in ſo many days time, we had nothing but our ſmall allowance of Maiz. [---+++] After the firſt day of March we made great runs every day, having very fair clear weather, and a freſh Trade-wind, which we made uſe of with all our Sails, and we made many good Obſervations of the Sun. At our firſt ſetting out, we ſteer'd into the lat. of 13 degrees, which is near the lat. of Guam ; then we ſteered Weſt keeping in that lat. By that time we had failed 20 days, our men ſee- ing we made ſuch great runs, and the Wind like to continue, repined becauſe they were kept at ſuch ſhort allowance. Captain Swan endeavoured to perſwade them to have a little patience ; yet nothing [+++---] 282 An.1686 Occurrences during the Voyage. nothing but an augmentation of their daily allow- ance would appeaſe them. Captain Swan, though with much reluctance, gave way to a ſmall en- largement of our commons, for now we had not above 10 ſpoonfuls of boil'd Maiz a man, once a day, whereas before we had 8 : I do believe that this ſhort allowance did me a great deal of good, though others were weakened by it ; for I found that my ſtrength increaſed, and my Dropſy wore off. Yet I drank 3 times every 24 hours ; but many of our men did not drink in 9 or 10 days time, and ſome not in 12 days ; one of our men did not drink in 17 days time, and ſaid he was not adry when he did drink ; yet he made water every day more or leſs. One of our men in the midſt of theſe hardſhips was found guilty of theft, and condemned for the ſame, to have 3 blows from each man in the Ship, with a 2 inch and a half rope on his bare back. Captain Swan began firſt, and ſtruck with a good will, whoſe example was followed by all of us. [---+++] It was very ſtrange that in all this Voyage we did not ſee one Fiſh, not ſo much as a Flying-fiſh, nor any ſort of Fowl, but at one time, when we were by my account 4975 miles Weſt from Cape Corrientes, then we ſaw a great number of Boobies, which we ſuppoſed came from ſome Rocks not far from us, which were mentioned in ſome of our Sea-carts, but we did not ſee them. [---+++] After we had run the 1900 leagues by our reck- oning which made the Engliſh account to Guam, the men began to murmur againſt Captain Swan, for perſwading them to come this Voyage ; but he gave them fair words, and told them that the Spa- niſh account might probably be the trueſt, and ſee- ing the gale was likely to continue, a ſhort time longer would end our troubles. [+++---] 283 An.1686 They arrive at Guam,one of the Ladrone Iſlands. As we drew nigh the Iſland, we met with ſome ſmall Rain, and the Clouds ſettling in the Weſt, were an apparent token that we were not far from Land ; for in theſe Climates, between or near the Tropicks, where the Trade-wind blows conſtant- ly, the Clouds which fly ſwift over head, yet ſeem near the Limb of the Horizon to hang without much motion or alteration, where the Land is near. I have often taken notice of it, eſpecially if it is high Land, for you ſhall then have the Clouds hang about it without any viſible motion. [---+++] The 20th day of May, our Bark being about 3 leagues a head of our Ship, failed over a rocky ſhole, on which there was but 4 fathom water and abundance of Fiſh ſwimming about the Rocks. They imagin d by this that the Land was not far off ; ſo they clapt on a Wind with the Barks head to the North, and being paſt the Shole lay by for us. When we came up with them, Captain Teat came aboard us, and related what he had ſeen. We were then in lat. 12 d. 55 m. ſteering Weſt. The Iſland Guam is laid down in Lat. 13 d. N. by the Spaniards, who are Maſters of it, keeping it as a baiting place as they go to the Philippine Iſlands. Therefore we clapt on a Wind and ſtood to North- ward, being ſomewhat troubled and doubtful whi- ther we were right, becauſe there is no Shole laid down in the Spaniſh drafts about the Iſland Guam. At 4 a clock, to our great joy, we ſaw the Iſland Guam, at about 8 leagues diſtance. [---+++] It was well for Captain Swan that we got ſight of it before our Proviſion was ſpent, of which we had but enongh for 3 days more ; for as I was af- terwards informed, the men had contrived firſt to kill Captain Swan and eat him when the victuals was gone, and after him all of us who were accef- ſary in promoting the undertaking this Voyage. This made Captain Swan ſay to mè after our ar- rival [+++---] 284 An.1686 They anchor at Guam. rival at Guam, Ah ! Dampier, you would have made them but a poor Meal ; for I was as lean as the Captain was lufty and fleſhy. The Wind was at E. N. E. and the Land bore at N. N. E. therefore we ſtood to the Northward, till we brought the Iſland to bear Eaſt, and then we turned to get in to an anchor. [---+++] The account I have given hitherto of our courſe from Cape Corrientes in the Kingdom of Mexico, (for I have mentioned another Cape of that name in Peru, South of the Bay of Panama) to Guam, one of the Ladrone Iſlands, hath been in the groſs. But for the ſatisfaction of thoſe who may think it ſerviceable to the fixing the Longitudes of theſe parts, or to any other uſe in Geography or Navi- gation, I have here ſubjoined a particular Table of every days run, which was as follows. [+++---] 285 An.1686 A Table of every days Run to Guam. March. Day. Courſe. Diſt. S. W. Lat. Winds. 31 SW 5dW 27 17 20 20: 11 WNW Ap 1 SW 5. W 106 68 81 R. 19: 3 NW:NNW 2 SW 1 W 142 98 101 R. 17:25 NbW 3 W by S 102 19 100 Ob.17: 6 N 4 W 12 S 140 29 136 Ob.16:37 N: NNE 5 W 20 S 160 54 150 Ob.15:43 N 6 W 10 S 108 18 106 Ob.15:25 NE 7 W 15 S 89 22 86 Ob.15: 2 NE:ENE 8 W 2 S 64 5 63 R. 14:57 ENE 9 W 4 S 94 6 93 Ob.14:51 ENE 10 W 5 S 138 12 137 Ob.14:39 ENE 11 W 5 S 124 10 123 Ob.14:29 ENE 12 W 5 S 170 14 169 R. 14:15 ENE 13 W 5 S 170 14 169 R. 14: 1 ENE 14 W 5 S 180 15 177 R. 13:46 ENE 15 W 6 S 174 18 172 R. 13:28 ENE cloudy 16 W 6 S 182 19 180 R. 13: 9 ENE miſty 17 W 6 S 216 22 214 R. 12:47 ENE Rain [---+++] The Summ of the Weſtings hitherto is ------ 2283 which make Deg. of Longitude ---- 39d. 5m. [---+++] From hence my Courſe is moſt Weſt, ſometimes Southerly, ſometimes Northerly. Day Courſe. Diſt. N or S W. Lat. Winds. 18 W 192 0 192 R. 12:47 E by N 19 W 180 0 180 R. 12:47 E cloudy 20 W 177 0 170 R. 12:47 ENE 21 W 171 0 171 R. 12:47 ENE 22 W 18 0 180 R. 12:47 E by N 23 R. W. Ob.W4N 170 11 N 168 R. 12:47 ob.12:58 E by N [+++---] 286 An.1686 April A Table of each days run to Guam. Day. Courſe. Diſt. N or S W. Lat. Winds. 24 R. W 146 0 146 R. 12:58 E by N 25 W 146 0 146 R. 12:58 E by N 26 W 3 N 185 9 N 184 Ob.12: 7 E by N 27 W 140 0 140 Ob.13: 7 E by N 28 W 167 0 167 R. 13: 7 ENE 29 W 2 N 172 5 171 Ob.13:12 E 30 W 173 0 173 Ob.13:12 ENE M. 1 W 196 0 196 R. 13:12 E by N 2 W 160 0 160 Ob.13:12 E by N 3 W 154 0 154 R. 13:12 ENE 4 R. W. Ob.W2 S 153 5 S 152 R. 13:12 Ob.13: 7 E 5 W 2 N 180 7 N 179 Ob.13:14 ENE 6 W 3 N 172 9 N 171 Ob.13:22 ENE 7 W 160 0 160 Ob.13:22 E NE 8 W 3 S 149 7 S 148 Ob.13:15 E by N 9 W 4 S 134 9 S 133 Ob.13: 6 E NE 10 W 128 0 128 R. 13: 6 ENE 11 W 5 S 112 9 111 Ob.12:57 E NE 12 W 128 0 128 R. 12:57 ENE 13 W 129 0 129 R. 12:57 ENE 14 W 128 0 128 R. 12:57 ENE 15 W 4 N 118 8 N 117 Ob.13: 5 ENE 16 W 6 S 114 11 S 113 Ob.12:54 ENE 17 W 3 S 109 5 S 108 Ob.12:49 ENE 18 W 120 0 120 R. 12:49 ENE 19 W 127 0 137 K 12:49 ENE 20 W 134 0 134 R. 12:50 E 21 NW 7W 13 8 N 10 R. 12:59 ENE [---+++] Summ of all the Weſtings ---------- 7323 Making Deg. of Longitude in all ------ 125 d. 11 m. [+++---] 287 An.1686 The Table explained. Now the Iſland Guam bore N. N. E. 8 leagues diſt. this gives 22 m. to my Lat. and takes 9 from my Meridian diſt. ſo that the Iſland is in Lat. 13:21 ; and the Merid. diſt. from Cape Corrientes 7302 miles ; which reduced into degrees makes 125 d. 11 m. [---+++] The Table conſiſts of 7 Columns. The firſt is of the days of the month. The 2d Column con- tains each days courſe, or the Point of the Compaſs we ran upon. The 3d gives the diſtance or length of ſuch courſe in Italian or Geometrical miles, (at the rate of 60 to a degree,) or the progreſs the Ship makes every day ; and is reckoned always from noon to noon. But becauſe the courſe is not al- ways made upon the ſame Rumb in a direct line, therefore the 4th and 5th Columns ſhew how ma- ny miles we ran to the South every day, and how many to the Weſt, which laſt was our main run in this Voyage. By the 17th of April we were got pretty near into the latitude of Guam, and our courſe then lying along that parallel, our Northing and Southing confequently were but little, accord- ing as the Ship deviated from its direct courſe ; and ſuch deviation is thenceforward expreſt by N. or S. in the 5th Column, and the Ships keeping ſtraight on the Weſt Rumb, by o, that is to ſay, no Nor- thing or Southing. The 6th Columns ſhews the lat. we were in every day, where R. ſignifies the dead Reckoning, by the running of the Logs, and Ob. ſhews the lat. by obſervation. The 7th Column ſhews the Wind and Weather. [---+++] To theſe I would have added an 8th Column, to ſhew the Variation of the Needle ; but as it was very ſmall in this courſe, ſo neither did we make any ob- ſervation of it, above once, after we were ſet out from the Mexican Coaſt. At our departure from Cape Corrientes, we found it to be 4 d. 28 m. Eaſterly ; and the obſervation we made of it afterwards, when we had gone about a third of the Voyage, ſhewed [+++---] 288 An.1686 Of the Breadth of the South Sea. ſhewed it to be ſo near the ſame, but decreaſing : Neither did we obſerve it at Guam, for Captain Swan who had the Inſtruments in his Cabbin, did not ſeem much to regard it: Yet I am inclined to think that at Guam, the Variation might be either none at all, or even increaſing to the Weſtward. [---+++] To conclude, May 20th at noon (when we begin to call it 21ſt) we were in lat. 12 d. 50 m. N. by R. having run ſince the noon before 134 miles direct- ly Weſt. We continued the ſame courſe till 2 that afternoon, for which I allow 10 miles more, Weſt ſtill, and then, finding the parallel we ran up- on to be too much Southerly, we clapt on a Wind and failed directly North, till 5 in the afternoon, having in that time run 8 mile, and increaſed our latitude ſo many minutes, making it 12 d. 58 m. We then ſaw the Iſland Guam bearing N. N. E. di- ſtant from us about 8 leagues, which gives the latitude of the Iſland 13. d. 20 m. And according to the account foregoing, its longitude is 125 d. 11 m. Weſt from Cape Corrientes on the Coaſt of Mexico, allowing 58 and 59 Italian miles to a degree in theſe latitudes, at the common rate of 60 miles to a degree of the Equator, as before computed. [---+++] As a Corollary from hence it will follow, that upon a ſuppoſal of the truth of the general al- lowance, Seamen make of 60 Italian miles to an Equinoctial degree, that the South Sea muſt be of a greater breadth by 25 degrees, than it s commonly reckoned by Hydrographers, who makes it only a- bout 100, more or leſs. For ſince we found (as I ſhall have occaſion to ſay) the diſtance from Guam to the Eaſtern parts of Aſia, to be much the ſame with the common reckoning; it follows by way of neceſſary conſequence from hence, that the 25 degrees of longitude, or thereabouts, which are un- der-reckon'd in the diſtance between America and the Eaſt Indies Weſtward, muſt be over-reckoned [+++---] 289 An.1686 Of the Æthiopick and Atlantick Ocean. in the breadth of Aſia and Africk, the Atlantick Sea, or the American Continent, or all together ; and ſo that Tract of the Terraqueous Globe, muſt be ſo much ſhortened. And for a further confirmation of the fact, I ſhall add, that as to the Æthiopick or Indian Sea, its breadth muſt be conſiderably leſs than 'tis generally calculated to be ; if it be true what I have heard over and over, from ſeveral a- ble Seamen whom I have converſed with in theſe parts, that Ships failing from the Cape of Good Hope to New-Holland, (as many Ships bound to Ja- va, or thereabouts, keep that lat.) find themſelves there, (and ſometimes to their coſt) running a ground when they have thought themſelves to be a great way off ; and 'tis from hence poſſibly, that the Dutch call that part of this Coaſt, the Land of Indraught, (as if it magnetically drew Ships too faſt to it) and give cautions to avoid it : But I rather think 'tis the nearneſs of the Land, than any Whirlpool, or the like, that ſurprizes them. As to the breadth of the Atlantick Sea, I am from good hands aſſured, that it is over-reckoned by 6, 7, 8, or 10 degrees ; for beſides my different draughts of the concurrent Accounts of ſeveral experienced men, who have onfirmed the ſame to me ; Mr. Canby particularly, who hath failed as a Mate in a great many Voy- ages, from Cape Lopez on the Coaſt of Guinea to Barbadoes, and is much esteem d as a very ſenſible man, hath often told me, that he conſtantly found the diſtance to be between 60 and 62 degrees ; whereas 'tis laid down in 68, 69, 70, and 72 de- grees in the common draughts. [---+++] As to the ſuppoſition it ſelf which our Seamen make, in the allowing but 60 miles to a degree, I am not ignorant how much this hath been canvaſed, of late years eſpecially, and that the prevailing o- pinion hath been that about 70, or upwards ſhould be allowed. But till I can ſee ſome better grounds for [+++---] 290 An.1686 Of the miles in a Deg. The Iſle of Guam. for the exactneſs of theſe tryals, that have been made on Land by Mr. Norwood and others, con- sidering the inequality of the Earths ſurface, as well as the obliquity of the way ; in their allow- ing for which I am ſomewhat doubtful of their meaſures: upon the whole matter, I cannot but adhere to the general Sea-Calculation, confirmed as to the main by daily experience, till ſome more certain eſtimate ſhall be made, than thoſe hither- to attempted. For we find our ſelves when we fail North or South, to be brought to our intended place, in a time agreeable enough with what we expect upon the uſual ſuppoſition ; making all rea- fonable allowance, for the little unavoidable devi- ations Eaſt or Weſt : and there ſeems no reaſon why the ſame eſtimate ſhould not ſerve us in crof- sing the Meridians, which we find ſo true in ſailing under them. As to this courſe of ours to Guam particularly, we ſhould rather increaſe than ſhort- en our eſtimate of the length of it, conſidering that the Eaſterly Wind and Current being ſo ſtrong, and bearing therefore our Log after us, as is uſual in ſuch caſes ; ſhould we therefore in caſting up the run of the Log, make allowance for ſo much ſpace as the Log it ſelf drove after us (which is commonly 3 or 4 miles in 100 in ſo briſk a gale as this was) we muſt have reckoned more than 125 degrees, but in this Voyage we made no ſuch allowance : (though it be uſual to do it) ſo that how much fo- ever this computation of mine exceeds the common Draughts, yet is it of the ſhorteſt according to our experiment and calculation. [---+++] But to proceed with our Voyage : The Iſland Guam, or Guabon, (as the Native Indians pronounce it) is one of the Ladrone Iſlands, belongs to the Spaniards, who have a ſmall Fort with 6 Guns in it, with a Governour and 20 or 30 Soldiers. They keep it for the relief and refreſhment of their Phi- lippine 291 An.1686 Isle of Guam, or Maria. The Coco nut. lippine Ships, that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila, but the Winds will not so eafi- ly let them take this way back again. The Spa- niards of late have named Guam, the Island Maria, it is about 12 leagues long and 4 broad, lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champion Land. [---+++] The 21st day of May 1686, at 11 a clock in the evening, we anchored near the middle of the Island Guam, on the West side, a mile from the shore. At a distance it appears flat and even, but coming near it you will find it stands shelving, and the East side, which is much the highest, is fenced with steep Rocks, that oppose the vio'ence of the Sea, which continually rage against it, being dri- ven with the constant Trade-wind, and on that side there is no anchoring. The West side is pretty low, and full of small sandy Bays, divided with as many rocky points. The Soil of the Island is red- dish, dry, and indifferent fruitful. The Fruits are chiefly Rice, Pine-apples, Water-melons, Musk- melons, Oranges and Limes, Coco-nuts, and a sort of Fruit called by us Bread-fruit. [---+++] The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea, on the Western side in great groves, 3 or 4 miles in length, and a mile or 2 broad. This Tree is in shape like the Cabbage-tree, and at a distance they are not to be known each from other, only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches; but the Cabbage-tree generally is much higher, though the Coco-nut Trees in some places are very high. [---+++] The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree, among the Branches and in clusters, 10 or 12 in a cluster. The Branch to which they grow is about the bigness of a mans arm, and as long, running small towards the end. It is of a yellow colour, full of knots, and very tough. The Nut is gene- rally bigger than a mans head. The outer Rind is near 2 inches thick, before you come to the Shell; the [+++---] 292 An.1686 The Coco-nut. the Shell it self is black, thick, and very hard. [---+++] The Kernel in some Nuts is near an inch thick, sticking to the inside of the Shell clear round, leaving a hollow in the middle of it, which contains about a pint, more or less, according to the bigness of the Nut; for some are much bigger than others. [---+++] This Cavity is full of sweet, delicate, wholsom, and refreshing Water. While the Nut is growing, all the inside is full of this Water, without any Kernel at all; but as the Nut grows towards its maturity, the Kernel begins to gather and settle round on the inside of the Shell, and is soft like Cream; and as the Nut ripens, it increaseth in substance and becomes hard. The ripe Kernel is sweet enough, but very hard to digest, therefore seldom eaten, except by strangers, who know not the effects of it; but while it is young and soft like pap, some men will eat it, scraping it out with a spoon, after they have drunk the water that was within it. I like the Water best when the Nut is almost ripe, for it is then sweeteft and briskeft. [---+++] When these Nuts are ripe and gathered, the out- side Rind becomes of a brown rusty colour; so that one would think that they were dead and dry: yet they will sprout out like Onions, after they have been hanging in the Sun 3 or 4 months, or thrown about in a House or Ship, and if planted afterward in the Earth, they will grow up to a Tree. Before they thus sprout out, there is a small spongy round knob grows in the inside, which we call an Apple: This at first is no bigger than the top of ones finger, but increaseth daily, fucking up the Water till it is grown so big as to fill up the Cavity of the Coco-nut; and then it be- gins to sprout forth. By this time the Nut that was hard, begins to grow oily and soft, thereby giving passage to the sprout that springs from the Apple, [+++---] 293 An.1686 Toddy and Arack, Liquors made of the Coco-tree. Apple, which Nature hath so contrived, that it points to the hole in the Shell, (of which there are 3, till it grows ripe, just where it's fastend by its Stalk to the Tree; but one of these holes re- mains open even when it is ripe, ) through which it creeps and spreads forth its Branches. You may let these teeming Nuts sprout out a foot and half or 2 foot high before you plant them, for they will grow a great while like an Onion out of their own substance. [---+++] Beside the Liquor or Water in the Fruit, there is also a sort of VVine drawn from the Tree called Toddy, which looks like VVhey. It is sweet and very pleasant, but it is to be drunk within 24 hours after it is drawn, for afterwards it grows fowre. Those that have a great many Trees, draw a spirit from the fowre Wine, called Arack. Arack is di- ftill'd also from Rice, and other things in the East Indies; but none is so much esteemed for ma- king Punch as this sort, made of Toddi, or the sap of the Coco-nut Tree, for it makes most deli- cate Punch; but it must have a dash of Brandy to hearten it, because this Arack is not strong enough to make good Punch of it seif. This fort of Li- quor is chiefly used about Goa; and therefore it has the name of Goa Arack. The way of draw- ing the Toddi from the Tree, is by cutting the top of a Branch that would bear Nuts; but before it has any Fruit: and from thence the Liquor which was to feed its Fruit, distils into the hole of a Callabash that is hung upon it. This Branch continues running almost as long as the Fruit would have been growing, and then it dries a- way. The Tree hath usually 3 fruitful Branches, which if they be all tapp'd thus, then the Tree bears no Fruit that year; but if one or two only be tapp'd, the other will bear Fruit all the while. The Liquor which is thus drawn is emptied out of the U 3 Callabash, [+++---] 294 An.1686 The Uses of the Coco-nut. Callabash duly morning and evening, so long as it continues running, and is fold every morning and evening in most Towns in the East Indies, and great gains is produced from it even this way; but those that distil it and make Arack, reap the greatest profit. There is also great profit made of the Fruit, both of the Nut and the Shell. [---+++] The Kernel is much used in making Broath. When the Nut is dry they take off the husk, and giving two good blows on the middle of the Nut, it breaks in two equal parts, letting the Water fall on the ground; then with a small iron Rasp made for the purpose, the Kernel or Nut is rasped out clean, which being put into a little fresh Water, makes it become white as Milk. In this milky Water they boil a Fowl, or any sort of Flesh,and it makes very savory Broath. English Seamen put this Water into boil'd Rice, which they eat instead of Rice-milk, carrying Nuts pur- posely to Sea with them. This they learn from the Natives. [---+++] But the greatest use of the Kernel is to make Oyl, both for burning and for frying. The way to make the Oyl is to grate or rasp the Kernel, and steep it in fresh water; then boil it, and scum off the Oil at top as it rises: but the Nuts that make the Oyl ought to be a long time gathered, so as that the Kernel may be turning soft and oily. [---+++] The Shell of this Nut is used in the East Indies for Cups, Dishes, Ladles, Spoons, and in a manner for all eating and drinking Vessels. Well-shaped Nuts are often brought home to Europe, and much esteem- ed. The husk of the Shell is of great use to make Cables; for the dry husk is full of small strings and threads, which being beaten, become soft, and the other substance which was mixt among it falls a way like Saw-dust, leaving only the strings. These are afterwards spun into long yarns, and twisted up into balls for convenience; and many of these Rope [+++---] 295 An.1686 The Profitableness of Coco-trees. Rope-yarns joyned together make good Cables. This Manufactory is chiefly used at the Maldivue Islands, and the threads sent in balls into all places that trade thither, purposely for to make Cables. I made a Cable at Achin with some of it. These are called Coire Cables: they will last very well. But there is another sort of Coire Cables (as they are called) that are black, and more strong and lasting; and are made of strings that grow, like Horse-hair, at the heads of certain Trees, almost like the Coco- nut-tree. This sort comes most from the Island Ti- mor. In the South Seas the Spaniards do make Oakam to chalk their Ships with the husk of the Coco-nut, which is more serviceable than that made of hemp, and they say it will never rot. I have been told by Captain Knox, who wrote the Relation of Ceylon, that in some places of India they make a sort of coarse Cloath of the husk of the Coco-nut, which is used for Sails. My self have seen a sort of coarse Sail-cloath made of such a kind of substance: but whether the same or no I know not. [---+++] I have been the longer on this subject, to give the Reader a particular Account of the use and profit of a Vegetable, which is possibly of all others the most generally serviceable to the conveniencies, as well as the necessities of humane Life. Yet this Tree, that is of such great use, and esteemed so much in the East Indies, is scarce regarded in the West Indies, for want of the knowledge of the bene- fit which it may produce. And tis partly for the sake of my Countrymen in our American Planta- tions that I have spoken so largely of it. For the hot Climates there are a very proper soil for it: and indeed it is so hardy both in the raising it, and when grown, that it will thrive as well in dry sandy ground as in rich land. I have found them grow- ing very well in low sandy Islands (on the West of Sumatra) that are over-flowed with the Sea every Spring- 396 An.1686 The Lime Tree and Fruit. Bread fruit. Spring-tide; and though the Nuts there are not very big, yet this is no loss; for the Kernel is thick and sweet, and the Milk, or Water in the inside, is more pleasant and sweet than of the Nuts that grow in rich ground, which are commonly large indeed, but not very sweet. These at Guam grow- ing in dry ground are of a middle size, and I think the sweetest that I did ever taste. Thus much for the Coco-nut. [---+++] The Lime is a sort of bastard or Crab-limon. The Tree, or Bush that bears it is prickly, 'like a Thorn, growing full of small boughs. In Jamaica, and other places, they make of the Lime-Bush Fences about Gardens, or any other Inclosure, by planting the seeds close together, which growing up thick, spread abroad, and make a very good Hedge. The Fruit is like a Lemon, but smaller; the rind thin, and the inclosed substance full of juice. The juice is very tart, yet of a pleasant taste if sweetned with Sugar: It is chiefly used for making Punch, both in the East and West Indies, as well ashore as at Sea, and much of it is for that pur- pose yearly brought home to England from our West India Plantations. It is also used for a particu- lar kind of Sauce, which is called Pepper-Sauce, and is made of Cod-pepper, commonly called Guinea- pepper, boiled in Water, and then pickled with Salt, and mixt with Lime-juice to preserve it. Limes grow plentifully in the East and West Indies within the Tropicks. [---+++] The Bread-fruit (as we call it) grows on a large Tree, as big and high as our largest Apple-trees. It hath a spreading head full of branches, and dark leaves. The Fruit grows on the boughs like Ap- ples: it is as big as a Penny Loaf when Wheat is at 5 Shillings the Bushel. It is of a round shape, and hath a thick tough rind. When the Fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft; and the taste is sweet and [+++---] 297 An.1686 The Natives of Guam. and pleasant. The Natives of this Island use it for Bread: they gather it when full grown, while it is green and hard; then they bake it in an Oven, which scorcheth the rind and makes it black: but they scrape off the outside black crust, and there remains a tender thin crust, and the inside is soft, tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf. There is neither seed nor stone in the inside, but all is of a pure substance like Bread: it must be eaten new; for if it is kept above 24 hours, it be- comes dry, and eats harsh and choaky; but 'tis very pleasant before it is too stale. This Fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year, during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind. I did never see of this Fruit any where but here. The Natives told us, that there is plenty of this Fruit growing on the rest of the Ladrone Islands: and I did never hear of any of it any where else. [---+++] They have here some Rice also: but the Island being of a dry soil, and therefore not very proper for it, they do not sow very much. Fish is scarce about this Island: yet on the Shole that our Bark came over there was great plenty, and the Natives commonly go thither to fish. [---+++] The natives of this Island are strong bodied, large limb'd and well shap'd. They are Copper- coloured, like other Indians: their hair is black and long, their Eyes meanly proportioned; they have pretty high Noses; their Lips are pretty full, and their Teeth indifferent white. They are long visaged, and stern of countenance; yet we found them to be affable and courteous. They are many of them troubled with a kind of a Leprosie. This distemper is very common at Mindanao: therefore I shall speak more of it in my next Chapter. They of Guam are otherwise very healthy, especially in the dry season: but in the wet season, which comes in in June, and holds till October, the air is more thick [+++---] 298 An.1686 Proes, a sort of Indian Boats. thick and unwholsome, which occasions Fevers: but the rains are not violent nor lasting. For the Island lyes so far Westerly from the Philippine Islands, or any other Land, that the Westerly winds do sel- dom blow so far; and when they do, they do not last long: but the Easterly Winds do constantly blow here, which are dry and healthy; and this Island is found to be very healthful, as we were informed while we lay by it. The natives are ve- ry ingenious beyond any people, in making Boats, or Proes, as they are called in the East Indies, and therein they take great delight. These are built sharp at both ends; the bottom is of one piece, made like the bottom of a little Canoa, very neatly dug, and left of a good substance. This bottom part is instead of a Keel. It is about 26 or 28 foot long; the under part of this Keel is made round, but inclining to a wedge and smooth; and the upper part is almost flat, having a very gentle hollow, and is about a foot broad: From hence both sides of the Boat are carried up, to about 5 foot high with nar- row plank, not above 4 or 5 inches broad, and each end of the Boat turns up round, very pretti- ly. But what is very singular, one side of the Boat is made perpendicular, like a Wall, while the o- ther side is rounding, made as other Vessels are, with a pretty full belly. Just in the middle it is about 4 or 5 foot broad aloft, or more according to the length of the Boat. The Mast stands exactly in the middle, with a long Yard that peeks up and down like a Mizen-yard. One end of it reacheth down to the end or head of the Boat, where it is placed in a notch, that is made there purposely to receive it, and keep it fast. The other end hangs over the stern: To this yard the sail is fastened. At the foot of the sail there is another small yard, to keep the sail out square, and to roll up the sail on when it blows hard: for it serves instead of a reef [+++---] 299 An.1686 Proes, or Indian Boats. reef to take up the sail to what degree they please, according to the strength of the Wind. Along the belly-side of the Boat, parallel with it at about 6 or 7 foot distance, lies another small Boat, or Ca- noa, being a Log of very light Wood, almost as long as the great Boat, but not so wide, being not above a foot and an half wide at the upper part, and very sharp like a wedge at each end. And there are two Bamboas of about 8 or 10 foot long, and as big as one's Leg, placed over the great Boats side, one near each end of it, and reaching about 6 or 7 foot from the side of the Boat: by the help of which the little Boat is made firm and conti- guous to the other. These are generally called by the Dutch, and by the English from them, Out- lagers. The use of them is to keep the great Boat upright from over-setting; because the Wind here being in a manner constantly East (or if it were at West it would be the same thing) and the Range of these Islands, where their business lies to and fro, being mostly North and South, they turn the flat side of the Boat against the Wind upon which they sail, and the belly-side, consequently, with its little Boat, is upon the Lee: and the Vessel having a Head at each end, so as to sail with either of them foremost (indifferently) they need not tack, or go about, as all our Vessels do, but each end of the Boat serves either for head or stern as they please. When they ply to windward, and are minded to go about, he that steers bears away a little from the Wind, by which means the stern comes to the Wind; which is now become the head, only by shifting the end of the yard. This Boat is steered with a broad Paddle, instead of a Rudder. I have been the more particular in describing these Boats, because I do believe they sail the best of any Boats in the world. I did here for my own satis- faction try the swiftness of one of them: failing by [+++---] 300 An.1686 The state of the Spaniards at Guam. by our Log, we had 12 knots on our reel, and she run it all out before the half minute glass was half out; which, if it had been no more, is after the rate of 12 mile an hour; but I do believe she would have run 24 mile an hour. It was very plea- sant to see the little Boat running along so swift by the others side. [---+++] The Native Indians are not less dexterous in managing than in building these Boats. By report, they will go from hence to another of the Ladrone Islands about 30 leagues off, and there do their business, and return again in less than 12 hours. I was told that one of these Boats was sent Express to Manila, which is above 400 leagues, and per- formed the Voyage in 4 days time. There are of these Proes or Boats used in many places of the East Indies, but with a Belly and a little Boat on each side. Only at Mindanao I saw one like these with the belly and little Boat only on one side, and the other flat, but not so neatly built. [---+++] The Indians of Guam have neat little Houses, ve- ry handsomely thatch'd with Palmeto-thatch. They inhabit together in Villages built by the Sea, on the West side, and have Spanish Priests to instruct them in the Christian Religion. [---+++] The Spaniards have a small Fort on the West side, near the South end, with 6 Guns in it. There is a Governour, and 20 or 30 Spanish Souldiers. There are no more Spaniards on the Island, beside 2 or 3 Priests. Not long before we arriv'd here the Na- tives rose on the Spaniards to destroy them, and did kill many: but the Governour with his Souldiers at length prevailed, and drove them out of the Fort: So when they found themselves disappoint- ed of their intent, they destroyed the Plantations and stock, and then went away to other Islands. There were then 3 or 400 Indians on this Island; but now there are not above 100; for all that were in [+++---] 301 An.1686 Their treating for Provisions. in this Conspiracy went away. As for these who yet remain, if they were not actually concerned in that broil, yet their hearts also are bent against the Spaniards: for they offered to carry us to the Fort, and assist us in the Conquest of the Island; but C. Swan was not for molesting the Spaniards here. [---+++] Before we came to an anchor here one of the Priests came aboard in the night with 3 Indians. They first hailed us to know from whence we came, and what we were; to whom answer was made in Spanish, that we were Spaniards, and that we came from Acapulco. It being dark they could not see the make of our Ship, nor very well discern what we were. Therefore they came aboard: but perceiving the mistake that they were in, in taking us for a Spanish Ship, they endeavoured to get from us again; but we held their Boat fast, and made them come in. Captain Swan received the Priest with much civility, and conducting him into the great Cabbin declared, that the reason of our co- ming to this Island was want of Provision, and that he came not in any hostile manner, but as a friend to purchase with his Money what he wanted: and therefore desired the Priest to write a Letter to the Governor, to inform him what we were, and on what account we came. For having him now a- board, the Captain was willing to detain him as an Hostage, till we had Provision. The Padre told Captain Swan that Provision was now scarce on the Island: but he would engage, that the Governour would do his utmost to furnish us. [---+++] In the morning the Indians, in whose Boat or Prow the Frier came aboard, were sent to the Go- vernour with 2 Letters; one from the Frier, and another very obliging one from Captain Swan, and a Present of 4 yards of Scarlet-cloath, and a piece of broad Silver and Gold Lace. The Governor lives near the South end of the Island on the West fide, [+++---] 302 An.1686 The Governours Presents to Captain Swan. side; which was about 5 leagues from the place where we were; therefore we did not expect an answer till the evening, not knowing then how nimble they were. Therefore when the Indian Canoa was dispatched away to the Governor, we hoised out 2 of our Canoas, and sent one a fishing, and the other ashore for Coco-nuts. Our fishing Canoa got nothing: but the Men that went ashore for Coco-nuts came off laden. [---+++] About 11 a clock, that same morning, the Go- vernor of the Island sent a Letter to Captain Swan, complimenting him for his Present, and promising to support us with as much Provision as he could possibly spare; and as a token of his gratitude, he sent a Present of 6 Hogs, of a small sort, most ex- cellent Meat, the best, I think, that ever I eat: they are fed with Coco-nuts, and their flesh is hard as Brisket Beef. They were doubtless of that breed in America which came originally from Spain. He sent also 12 Muskmelons, larger than ours in En- gland, and as many Water-melons, both sorts here being a very excellent Fruit; and sent an order to the Indians that lived in a Village not far from our Ship, to bake every day as much of the Bread-fruit as we did desire, and to assist us in getting as many dry Coco-nuts as we would have; which they ac- cordingly did, and brought off the Bread-fruit eve- ry day hot, as much as we could eat. After this the Governour sent every day a Canoa or two with Hogs and Fruit, and desired for the same, Powder, Shot, and Arms; which was sent according to his request. We had a delicate large English Dog: which the Governour did desire, and had it given him very freely by the Captain, though much a- gainst the grain of many of his Men, who had a great value for that Dog. Captain Swan endea- voured to get this Governours Letter of Recom- mendation to some Merchants at Manila, for he had [+++---] 303 An.1686 The Acapulco Ship narrowly escapes them. had then a design to go to Fort St. George, and from thence intended to trade to Manila: but this his de- fign was concealed from the company. While we lay here the Acapulco Ship arrived in sight of the Island, but did not come in sight of us: for the Governour sent an Indian Proe with advice of our being here. Therefore she stood off to the South- ward of the Island, and coming foul of the same shole that our Bark had run over before, was in great danger of being lost there; for she struck off her Rudder, and with much ado got clear; but not till after three days labour. For tho the shole be so near the Island, and the Indians go off and fish there every day, yet the Master of the Acapulco Ship, who shouid (one would think) know these parts, was utterly ignorant of it. This their striking on the shole we heard afterward, when we were on the Coast of Manila; but these Indians of Guam speak of her being in sight of the Island while we lay there: which put our men in a great heat to go out after her; but Captain Swan perswaded them out of that humour, for he was now wholly averfe to any hostile action. [---+++] The 30th day of May the Governour sent his last Present, which was some Hogs, a Jar of pickled Mangoes, a Jar of excellent pickled Fish, and a Jar of fine Rusk, or Bread of fine Wheat Flower, baked like Bisket, but not so hard. He sent besides 6 or 7 packs of Rice, desiring to be excused from fending any more Provision to us, saying he had no more on the Island that he could spare. He fent word also that the West Monsoon was at hand; that therefore it behoved us to be jogging from hence, unless we were resolved to return back to America again. Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindness and advice, and took his leave; and the same day sent the Frier ashore that was seized on at our first arrival, and gave him a large Brafs [+++---] 304 An.1686 Their Provisions for their Voyage. Brafs Clock, an Astralobe, and a large Telescope: for which Present the Frier sent us aboard 6 Hogs, and a roasting Pig, 3 or 4 Bushels of Potatoes, and 50 l. of Manila Tobacco. Then we prepared to be gone, being pretty well furnished with Provision to carry us to Mindanao, where we designed next to touch. We took aboard us as many Coco-nuts as we could well stow, and we had a good stock of Rice, and about 50 Hogs in Salt.