[ch19 is page 521-535] 521 An.1691 The set Sail for the Cape of Good Hope. C H A P. XIX. The Author's departure from Bencouli, on board the Defence, under Captain Heath. Of a fight between some French Men of War from Ponticheri, and some Dutch Ships from Pallacat, joined with some English, in fight of Fort St. George. Of the bad Water taken in at Bencouli ; and the strange sickness and death of the Seamen, supposed to be occasioned thereby. A Spring at Bencouli recommended. The great exigences on board: a Consult held, and a Proposal made to go to Johanna. A Resolution taken to prosecute their Voyage to the Cape of Good Hope. The Wind favours them. The Captains Conduct They arrive at the Cape, and are helped into Harbour by the Dutch. A description of the Cape, its Prof- pect, Soundings, Table Mount, Harbour, Soil, &c. large Pomegranates and good Wines. The Land-Animals. A very beautiful kind of Onager, or Wild Ass, striped regularly black and white. Ostrages. Fish. Seals. The Dutch Fort and Factory. Their fine Garden. The Traffick here. [---+++] BEing thus got on board the Defence, I was con- cealed there, till a Boat which came from the Fort laden with Pepper was gone off again. And then we set sail for the Cape of Good Hope, Jan. 25, 1691. and made the best of our way, as wind and weather would permit; expecting there to [+++---] 522 An.1691 Pallacat, and Ponticheri. meet 2 English Ships more, bound home from the Indies: for the War with the French having been proclaimed at Fort St. George, a little before Cap- tain Heath came from thence, he was willing to have company home, if he could. [---+++] A little before this War was proclaimed, there was an Engagement in the Road of Fort St. George between some French Men of War, and some Dutch and English Ships at anchor in the Road: which, because there is such a plausible story made of it in Monsieur Duquefne's late Voyage to the East Indies, I shall give a short account of, as I had it particu- larly related to me by the Gunners Mate of Capt. Heath's Ship, a very sensible Man, and several o- thers of his Men, who were in the Action. The Dutch have a Fort on the Coast of Coromandel, called Pallacat, about 20 leagues to the Northward of Fort St. George. Upon some occasion or other the Dutch sent some Ships thither to fetch away their effects, and transport them to Batavia. Acts of Hostility were already begun between the French and Dutch ; and the French had at this time a Squa- dron newly arrived in India, and lying at Ponticheri, a French Fort on the same Coast, Southward of Fort St. George. The Dutch in returning to Batavia, were obliged to coast it along by Fort St. George and Ponticheri, for the sake of the Wind: but when they came near this last, they saw the French Men of War lying at anchor there; and should they have proceeded along the shore, or stood out to Sea, expected to be pursued by them. They there- fore turn'd back again; for though their Ships were of a pretty good force, yet were they unfit for Fight, as having great Loads of Goods, and many Passengers, Women and Children, on board: so they put in at Fort St. George, and desiring the Go- vernours Protection, had leave to anchor in the Road, and to send their Goods and useless People ashore. [+++---] A Sea fight before Fort St. George. 523 An.1691 ashore. There were then in the Road a few small English Ships: and Captain Heath, whose Ship was a very stout Merchant-man, and which the French Relater calls the English Admiral, was just come from China; but very deep laden with Goods, and the Deck full of Cannifters of Sugar, which he was preparing to send ashore. But before he could do it, the French appeared ; coming into the Road with their lower Sails and Top-fails, and had with them a Fireship. With this they thought to have burnt the Dutch Commodore, and might probably enough have done it as she lay at anchor, if they had had the courage to have come boldly on ; but they fired their Ship at a distance, and the Dutch sent and towed her away, where she spent her felf without any execution. Had the French Men of War also come boldly up, and grappled with their Enemies, they might have done something considerable, for the Fort could not have played on them, without damaging our Ships as well as theirs. But instead of this, the French dropt an- chor out of reach of the shot of the Fort, and there lay exchanging shot with their Enemies Ships with so little advantage to themselves, that after about 4 hours fighting, they cut their Cables, and went away in haste and disorder, with all their Sails loose, even their Top-gallant fails, which is not usual, but when Ships are just next to running away. [---+++] Captain Heath, notwithstanding his Ship was so heavy and incumbred, behaved himself very brave- ly in the fight; and upon the going off of the French went aboard the Dutch Commodore, and told him, that if he would pursue them, he would stand out with them to Sea, though he had very little Water aboard; but the Dutch Commander excused himself, saying he had orders to defend himself from the French, but none to chase them, [+++---] 524 A Mortality. Bad Water. An.1691 or go out of his way to seek them. And this was the exploit which the French have thought fit to brag of. I hear that the Dutch have taken from them since, their Fort of Ponticheri. [---+++] But to proceed with our Voyage: We had not been at Sea long, before our men began to droop, in a sort of a distemper that stole insensibly on them, and proved fatal to above 30, who died before we arrived at the Cape. We had some- times two and once three men thrown over board in a morning. This distemper might probably arise from the badness of the Water, which we took in at Bencouli: for I did observe while I was there, that the River-water, wherewith our Ships were watered, a ws very unwholesom, it being mixt with the Water of many small Creeks, that proceeded from low Land, and whose streams were always very black, they being nourished by the Water that drained out of the low swampy unwholesom ground. [---+++] I have observed not only there, but in other hot Countries also both in the East and West Indies, that the Land-floods which pour into the Channels of the Rivers, about the season of the Rains, are very unwholesom. For when I lived in the Bay of Campeachy, the Fish were found dead in heaps on the shores of the Rivers, and Creeks, at such a season; and many we took up half dead: of which fudden mortality, there appeared no cause but only the malignity of the Waters draining off the Land. This happens chiefly, as I take it, where the wa- ter drains through thick Woods, and Savannahs of long Grass, and swampy Grounds, with which some hot Countries abound: and I believe it re- ceives a strong Tincture from the Roots of several kind of Trees, Herbs, &c. and especially where there is any stagnancy of the Water, it soon cor- rupts; and possibly the Serpents and other poison- ous. [+++---] An excellent Spring at Bencouli. 525 An.1691 ous Vermin and Insects may not a little contribute to its bad qualities: at such times it will look very deep coloured, yellow, red, or black, &c. The season of the Rains was over, and the Land floods were abating, upon the taking up this Water in the River of Bencouli: but would the Seamen have given themselves the trouble, they might have fill'd their Vessels with excellent good Water, at a Spring on the back side of the Fort, not above 2 or 300 paces from the Landing place; and with which the Fort it ferv'd. And I mention this as a caution to any Ships that shall go to Bencouli for the future; and withal I think it worth the care of the Owners or Governours of the Factory, and that it would tend much to the preservation of their Seamens lives, to lay Pipes to convey the Fountain Water to the shore, which might easily be done, with a small charge: and had I staid longer there I would have undertaken it. I had a design also of bringing it into the Fort, though much higher: for it would be a great convenience and security to it, in case of a Siege. [---+++] Beside the badness of our Water, it was stowed among the Pepper in the Hold, which made it very hot. Every morning when we came to take our allowance, it was so hot, that a man could hardly suffer his hands in it, or hold a bottle full of it in his hand. I never any where felt the like, nor could have thought it possible that Water should heat to that degree in a Ships Hold. It was ex- ceeding black too, and looked more like Ink than Water. Whether it grew so black with standing, or was tinged with the Pepper, I know not, for this Water was not so black when it was first taken up. Our food also was very bad; for the Ship had been out of England upon this Voyage above three years; and the salt Provision brought from thence, and which we fed on, having been so long in [+++---] 526 An.1691 The Ships Crew distrest with Sickness. in salt , was but ordinary food for sickly men to live on. [---+++] Captain Heath, when he saw the misery of his Company, ordered his own Tamarinds, of which he had some Jars aboard, to be given some to each mefs, to eat with their Rice. This was a great refreshment to the men, and I do believe it contri- buted much to keep us on our legs [---+++] This distemper was so universal, that I do be- lieve there was scarce a man in the Ship, but lan- guished under it ; yet it stole so insensibly on us,that we could not say we were sick, feeling little or no pain, only a weakness, and but little stomach. Nay most of those that died in this Voyage, would hardly be perswaded to keep their Cabbins, or Hammacks, till they could not stir about ; and when they were forced to lye down, they made their Wills, and piked off in 2 or 3 days. [---+++] The loss of these men , and the weak languish- ing condition that the rest of us were in, rendered us uncapable to govern our Ship, when the wind blew more than ordinary. This often happened when we drew near the Cape, and as oft put us to our trumps to manage the Ship. Captain Heath, to incourage his men to their labour, kept his watch as constantly as any man, tho sickly himself, and lent an helping hand on all occasions. But at last, almost despairing of gaining his passage to the Cape, by reason of the Winds coming Southerly, and we having now been sailing 8 or 9 weeks, he called all our men to consult about our safety, and desired every man , from the highest to the lowest, freely to give his real opinion and advice, what to do in this dangerous juncture ; for we were not in a condition to keep out long ; and could we not get to Land quickly, must have pe- rished at Sea. He consulted therefore whether it were best to beat still for the Cape, or bear away [+++---] 527 An.1691 Captain Heath's Policy to hearten his Men. for Johanna , where we might expect relief, that being a place where our outward bound East India Ships usually touch, and whose Natives are very familiar ; but other places, especially St. Lau- rence, or Madagascar, which was nearer, was un- known to us. We were now so nigh the Cape that with a fair Wind we might expect to be there in 4 or 5 days ; but as the Wind was now, we could not hope to get thither. On the other side, this Wind was fair to carry us to Johanna; but then Johanna was a great way off ; and if the Wind should continue as it was, to bring us into a true Trade wind, yet we could not get thither under a fortnight ; and if we should meet calms, as we might probably expect, it might be much longer. Besides, we should lose our passage about the Cape till October or November, this being about the latter end of March, for after the 10th of May 'tis not usual to beat about the Cape, to come home. All circumstances therefore being weighed and considered, we at last unanimously agreed, to profe- cute our Voyage towards the Cape, and with pa- tience wait for a shift of Wind. [---+++] But Captain Heath, having thus far founded the inclination of his weak men, told them, that it was not enough that they all consented to beat for the Cape, for our desires were not sufficient to bring us thither ; but that there would need a more than ordinary labour and management, from those that were able: And withal, for their en- couragement, he promised a months pay Gratis, to every man that would engage to assist on all oc- casions, and be ready upon call, whether it were his turn to watch, or not ; and this money he promised to pay at the Cape. This offer was first imbraced by some of the Officers, and then as many of the men as found themselves in a capacity,lifted themselves in a Roll, to serve their Commander. [+++---] 528 An.1991 They arrive at the Cape of Good Hope This was wisely contrived of the Captain, for he could not have compell'd them in their weak condition, neither would fair words alone, with- out some hopes of a reward, have engag'd them to so much extraordinary work ; for the Ship, Sail, and Rigging were much out of repair. For my part, I was too weak to enter my self in that lift, for else our common safety, which I plainly saw lay at stake, would have prompted me to do more than any such reward would do. In a short time after this, it pleased God to favour us with a fine Wind, which being improved to the best advan- tage by the incessant labour of these new lifted men, brought us in a short time to the Cape. [---+++] The night before we entered the Harbour,which was about the beginning of April, being near the Land, we fired a Gun every hour, to give notice that we were in distress. The next day, a Dutch Captain came aboard in his Boat, who seeing us so weak as not to be able to trim our Sails to turn into the Harbour, though we did tolerably well at Sea, before the Wind, and being requested by our Captain to assist him, sent ashore for a hundred lusty men, who immediately came aboard, and brought our Ship in to an anchor. They also un- bent our Sails, and did every thing for us that they were required to do, for which Captain Heath gra- tified them to the full. [---+++] These men had better stomachs than we, and eat freely of such food as the Ship afforded : and they having the freedom of our Ship, to go to and fro between Decks, made prize of what they could lay their hands on, especially salt Beef, which our men, for want of stomachs in the Voyage, had hung up, 6, 8, or 10 pieces in a place. This was conveyed away before we knew it, or thought of it : besides, in the night, there was a Bale of Muz- lins broke open, and a great deal conveyed away ; [+++---] 529 An.1691 The Temperature of the Cape Climate. but whether the Muslins were stoln by our own men, or the Dutch, I cannot say ; for we had some very dexterous Thieves in our Ship. [---+++] Being thus got safe to an anchor, the sick were presently sent ashore, to quarters provided for them, and those that were able remained aboard, and had good fat Mutton, or fresh Beef, sent a- board every day : I went ashore also with my paint- ed Prince, where I remained with him till the time of sailing again, which was about 6 weeks. In which time I took the opportunity to inform my self of what I could concerning this Country, which I shall in this next place give you a brief account of, and so make what haste I can home. [---+++] The Cape of Good Hope is the utmost bounds of the continent of Africa towards the South, lying in 34 d. 30 m S. lat. in a very temperate Climate. I look upon this latitude to be one of the mildest and sweetest for its temperature, of any whatsoever ; and I cannot here but take notice of a common prejudice our European Seamen have as to this Country, that they look upon it as much colder than places in the same lat. to the North of the the Line. I am not of their opinion as to that : and their thinking so I believe may easily be ac- counted for from hence, that whatever way they come to the Cape, whether going to the East Indies or returning back, they pass thro a hot Climate : and coming to it thus out of an extremity of heat, 'tis no wonder if it appear the colder to them. Some impute the coldness of the South Wind here, to its blowing off from Sea. On the contrary, I have always observ'd the Sea Winds to be warmer than Land Winds ; unless it be when a bloom, as we call it, or hot blast blow from thence. Such an one we felt in this very Voyage, as we went from Cape Verd Islands, towards the South Seas ; which I forgot to mention in its proper place, Chap. 4th. [+++---] 530 An.1691 Blooms of Heat. For one afternoon about the 19th of Jan. 1683 in the lat. of 37 South, we felt a brisk gale coming from off the Coast of America, but so violently hot, that we thought it came from some burning Moun- tain on the shore, and was like the heat from the mouth of an Oven. Just such another gleam I felt one afternoon also, as I lay at anchor at the Groin in July 1694. it came with a Southerly Wind : both these were followed by a Thunder-shower. These were the only great blooms I ever met with in my Travels. But setting these aside, which are exceptions, I have made it my general observation, that the Sea Winds are a great deal warmer than those which blow from Land: unless where the Wind blows from the Poles, which I take to be the true cause of the coldness of the South Wind at the Cape ; for it is cold at Sea also. And as for the coldness of Land-Winds, as the South-West parts of Europe are very sensible of it from the Nor- thern and Eastern Winds ; so on the opposite Coast of Virginia, they are as much pinch'd with the North-West Winds, blowing excessively cold from over the Continent : though its lat. be not much greater than this of the Cape. [---+++] But to proceed: This large Promontory consists of high, and very remarkable Land: and off at Sea it affords a very pleasant and agreeable prospect. And without doubt the prospect of it was very agreeable to those Portuguefe, who first found out this way by Sea to the East-Indies : when after coasting along the vast Continent of Africk, towards the South Pole, they had the comfort of seeing the Land and their course end in this promontory: which therefore they called the Cape de Bon Efperance, or of Good Hope, finding that they might now proceed Eastward. [---+++] There is good Sounding off this Cape 50 or 60 leagues at Sea, to the Southward: and therefore our 531 An.1690 Signs of coming near the Cape of Good Hope. our English Seamen standing over as they usually do, from the Coast of Brazil, content themselves with their Soundings, concluding thereby that they are abreft of the Cape, they often pass by without seeing it, and begin to shape their course Northward. They have several other signs where- by to know when they are near it, as by the Sea- Fowl they meet at Sea, especially the Alganoffes, a very large long-winged Bird, and the Mango- volucres a smaller Fowl. But the greatest depen- dance of our English Seamen now is upon their observing the variation of the Compass, which is very carefully minded when they come near the Cape, by taking the Suns Amplitude mornings and evening. This they are so exact in, that by the help of the Azimuth Compass, an Instrument more peculiar to the Seamen of our Nation, they know when they are abreft of the Cape, or are either to the East or the West of it: and for that reason, though they should be to Southward of all the Soundings, or fathomable ground, they can shape their course right, without being obliged to make the Land. But the Dutch, on the contrary, having settled themselves on this Promontory, do always touch here in their East India Voyages, both going and coming. [---+++] The most remarkable Land at Sea is a high Mountain, steep to the Sea, with a flat even top, which is called the Table Land. On the West side of the Cape, a little to the Northward of it, there is a spacious Harbour, with a low flat Island lying off it; which you may leave on either hand, and pass in or out securely at either end. Ships that anchor here, ride near the Main Land, leaving the Island at a farther distance without them. The Land by the Sea against the Harbour, is low; but backt with high Mountains a little way in, to the Southward of it. M m The [+++---] 532 An.1691 Soil, Fruits, Animals, at the Cape. The Soil of this Country is of a brown colour; not deep, yet indifferently productive of Grass, Herbs, and Trees. The Grass is short, like that which grows on our Wiltshire or Dorsetshire Downs. The Trees hereabouts are but small and few; the Country also farther from the Sea, does not much abound in Trees, as I have been informed. The Mould or Soyl also is much like this near the Har- bour, which though it cannot be said to be very fat, or rich Land, yet it is very fit for cultivation, and yields good Crops to the industrious Husband- man, and the Country is pretty well settled with Farms, Dutch Families, and French Refugees, for 20 or 30 leagues up the Country; but there are but few Farms near the Harbour. [---+++] Here grows plenty of Wheat, Barly, Pease, &c. Here are also Fruits of many kinds, as Apples, Pears, Quinces, and the largest Pomgranats that I did ever see. [---+++] The chief Fruits are Grapes. These thrive very well, and the Country is of late years, so well stockt with Vineyards, that they make abun- dance of Wine, of which they have enough and to spare; and do sell great quantities to Ships that touch here. This Wine is like a French High Country White Wine, but of a pale yellowish co- lour; it is sweet, very pleasant and strong. [---+++] The tame Animals of this Country are Sheep, Goats, Hogs, Cows, Horses, &c. The Sheep are very large and fat, for they thrive very well here: This being a dry Country, and the short pasturage very agreeable to these Creatures, but it is not so proper for great Cattle; neither is the Beef in its kind so sweet as the Mutton. Of wild Beasts, 'tis said, here are several sorts, but I saw none. However, it is very likely there are some wild Beasts, that prey on the Sheep, because they are commonly brought into the Houses in the night and penn'd up. There [+++---] 533 An.1690 Wild Ass striped. Fowl, Fish, Seals. There is a very beautiful sort of wild Ass in this Country, whose body is curiously striped with equal lifts of white and black: the stripes coming from the ridge of his Back, and ending under the Belly, which is white. These stripes are two or three Fingers broad, running parallel with each other, and curiously intermixt, one white and one black, over from the Shoulder to the Rump. I saw two of the Skins of these Beasts, dried and preserved to be sent to Halland, as a rarity. They seemed big enough to inclose the Body of a Beast, as big as a large Colt of a twelvemonth old. [---+++] Here are a great many Ducks, Dunghil Fowls, &c. and Ostriges are plentifully found in the dry Mountains and Plains. I eat of their Eggs here, and those of whom I bought them told me that these creatures lay their Eggs in the Sand, or at least on dry ground, and so leave them to be hatch'd by the Sun. The meat of one of their Eggs will suffice two men very well. The Inha- bitants do preferve the Eggs that they find to sell to strangers. They were pretty scarce when I was here, it being the beginning of their Winter; whereas I was told they lay their Eggs about Christ- mas, which is their Summer. [---+++] The Sea hereabouts affords plenty of Fish of di- vers sorts; especially a small sort of Fish, not so big as a Herring; whereof they have such great plenty, that they pickle great quantities yearly, and send them to Europe. Seales are also in great numbers about the Cape; which, as I have still observed, is a good sign of the plentifulness of Fish, which is their food. [---+++] The Dutch have a strong Fort by the Sea side, against the Harbour, where the Governour lives. At about 2 or 300 paces distance from thence, on the West side of the Fort, there is a small Dutch Town, in which I told about 50 or 60 Houses; M m 2 low, [+++---] 534 An.1691 The Dutch Garden at the Cape. low, but well built, with Stone-walls; there be- ing plenty of Stone, drawn out of a Quarry close by. [---+++] On the backside of the Town, as you go to- wards the Mountains, the Dutch East-India Com- pany have a large House, and a stately Garden, walled in with a high Stone Wall. [---+++] This Garden is full of divers sorts of Herbs, Flowers, Roots, and Fruits, with curious spacious Gravel-walks and Arbors; and is watered with a Brook that descends out of the Mountains: which being cut into many channels, is conveyed into all parts of the Garden. The Hedges which make the Walks are very thick, and 9 or 10 foot high: They are kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning. There are lower Hedges within these again, which serve to separate the Fruit-trees from each other, but without shading them: and they keep each sort of Fruit by them- selves, as Apples, Pears, abundance of Quinces, Pomgranats, &c. These all prosper very well, and bear good Fruit, especially the Pomgranat. The Roots and Garden-herbs have also their di- stinct places, hedged in apart by themselves; and all in such order, that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful. There are a great number of Negro Slaves brought from other parts of the World; some of which are continually weeding, pruning, trimming, and looking after it. All Strangers are allowed the liberty to walk there; and by the Servants leave, you may be admitted to taste of the Fruit: but if you think to do it clandestinely, you may be mistaken, as I knew one was when I was in the Garden, who took 5 or 6 Pomgranats, and was espy'd by one of the Slaves, and threat- ned to be carry'd before the Governour: I believe it cost him some Money to make his peace, for I heard no more of it. Further up from the Sea, beyond [+++---] 535 An.1691 The dearness of Liquors there. beyond the Garden, towards the Mountains, there are several other small Gardens, and Vineyards, belonging to private men: but the Mountains are so nigh, that the number of them are but small. [---+++] The Dutch that live in the Town get considera- bly by the Ships that frequently touch here chiefly, by entertaining Strangers that come ashore to refresh themselves: for you must give 3s. or a Dollar a day for you entertainment; the Bread and Flesh is as cheap here as in England: Besides they buy good penny worths of the Seamen, both outward and homeward bound, which the Farmers up the Country buy of them again at a dear rate; for they have not the opportunity of buying things at the best hand, but must buy of those that live at the Harbour: the nearest Settlements, as I was informed being 20 miles off. [---+++] Notwithstanding the great plenty of Corn and Wine, yet the extraordinary high Taxes which the Company lays on Liquor, makes it very dear: and you can buy none but at the Tavern, ex- cept it be by stealth. There are but 3 Houses in the Town that sell strong Liquor, one of which is this Wine House or Tavern; there they sell only Wine: another sells Beer and Mum; and the third sells Brandy and Tobacco, all extraordinary dear. A Flask of Wine which holds 3 quarts will cost 18 Stivers, for so much I paid for it; yet I bought as much for 8 Stivers in another place, but it was privately, at an unlicensed House, and the person that sold it, would have been ruined had it been known; and thus much for the Coun- try, and the European Inhabitants. [+++---]